Neither the rose nor the clematis is particularly concerned about soil pH, so that is not an issue I'd worry about unless your soil is skewed heavily either way. The deep planting hole sounds just about right. Unlike just about any other plants, it is recommended that the planting hole for clematis should be big, deep and well amended. Typically you will see instructions for a hole about 18"x18" enriched with whatever organic matter/compost you might have on hand. You will need to mound the soil up a bit in the center of the hole before planting, but clems like it deep. The other, important instruction is that the vine be planted 4-6" deeper than it was in the nursery container. This causes the vine to develop a sturdy root system faster as well as to push additional stems from the root crown - when young, these stems on clematis are extremely brittle and vulnerable to damage so the more you have, the less the vine is likely to experience incidental damage. Plus it is always more desirable to have multiple stems rather than just one. Both of these plants are considered heavy 'feeders' and should be fertilized on a pretty routine basis to develop the profusion of flowers they are known for. If you research the Clematis forum you will most often see references to either a fert forumlated for roses or tomatoes and other vegetables - either will work as they concentrate on the nutrients that produce flowers or fruit. Typically the first application coincides with pruning in late winter/early spring (when the forsythia is blooming) and then every 6-8 weeks after that throughout the bloom season. I prefer to use organic fertilizers whenever possible and they tend to be slower acting so application may only be 2-3 times a year. In my old garden, I didn't use any prepared fertilizer at all but mulched everything with compost. I also had bunnies as pets and bunny poop is an excellent fertilizer for both roses and clematis and I applied liberally - I grew a LOT of clematis. Bunny poop is typically only partially digested alfalfa and alfalfa or alfalfa meal is highly recommended by rosarians and clematis growers as well :-)

Thanks Lazy! If the front to the back of the shed is only 8 feet, and my peak is going to be in the middle,, then my run will be only 4 feet, therefore, a 12/12 pitch would only have a roof height of 4 feet?? Agree? My ridge is going to run parallel to the front and back of the shed. i hope I am making myself clear! Do you think a steeper pitched roof, for appearances sake will be better than lets say a 4/12 pitch, for walls 8 feet high? Thanks, jim

Graywings, one of the girls from another decor board did something similar for her LR drapes just a few years ago. She was in Paris at the time, and I remember several of us following her drape saga with interest. Wish I could find a photo of what she did. Her panels were heavier weight than what you are looking at using, something in a velvet or similar, I believe. She used one color for the main drape and then attached a length maybe 14" deep to the Bottom of her drape. I believe she used piping between the two fabrics. Anyway, it looked wonderful. And I think that perhaps flipping your idea and doing the bottom in the different color might look better? I think your idea could be pretty............maybe better without adding the red insert, or if you add red, just a line of piping rather than the 2" inset. So, here's what I would do..... You have those panels already. So, get out your dressmaker straight pins and pin your pieces together. Do it very carefully so that it looks as close to 'sewn together' as you can get with pins. Leave out the red for now so you can play with your panels. Do you have a rod hung already? Hanging your finished product from the rod, using the existing rod pocket in your panel, will give you the best idea of how it will appear, but if you don't have a rod up, you may be able to use a strong masking or duct type tape to get them in place. Now, arrange them so you can visualize. Leave the room, then, walk back in and 'surprise' yourself. If you don't love the blue at the top, try the same idea like I suggested, with the deep hem of blue at the bottom edge. Once you do this, I think you will know whether to go full-speed-ahead or go for something else. And if you love the look, then, perhaps you can find something red to tack on as your narrow band in the middle, to get an idea of how that will look when finished. In a lightweight fabric like the one you are using, that's the part that worries me, because trying to do something like this with the addition of the narrow middle piece might hang puckered..........does that make sense? I've included a link at half priced drapes.com where they show their bottom banding. My Paris friend's looked a little similar, although, I don't think she did a 27" band. Also, you may find something there. I saw some 50" wide panels in 120" length on sale for $79 per panel. And a fabric with a bit more weight and heft to it just might hang better if you are fusing two separate colors. Red Here is a link that might be useful: Banding idea from HalfPricedDrapes

Since your house is so very long, I thought it could use one more color pulled from the rock. I don't like the wrought iron railings or those lights on the columns. Whatever lights are selected they shouldn't post mounted lights. They should be pier mounted lights. You might want to consider a railing system with cables