"Re: tub deck..you secure the surround to the wall studs as well as to the platform? Yes. Any photos instructions on building the platform and the support decking? I see your platform, but it is covered by the plywood. No pictures of that. Frame it like a mini-floor. 2-by framing members spaced 16" on center. I usually run the platform "joists" perpendicular to the direction that the floor joists are running. Do mark out a the area where your tub's drain and trap will run, box that out accordingly so the platforms' joists don't interfere with the plumbing. Then cover the platform with 3/4" CDX plywood. Also, on a side note..any instructions installing a kerdi shower but with a preformed shower pan? That might have been discussed in the "Kerdi Shower" thread. If it wasn't covered specifically, the detail for joining the wall Kerdi to the preformed shower pan flange is essentially the same as joining the Kerdi to a tub flange. I drew a couple of sketches regarding that detail in the KS thread. Should be towards the end. There should be one drawing showing the cement board being held above the flange and the tile hanging over to cover the flange. There should be a second drawing showing furring strips added to the faces of the wall stud, with the cement board then hanging down past the tub flange and the tile no the cement board. The latter would be a better when using small mosaic tiles. Also, I read on another post someone got a tub, but doesn't have a big enough water heater to fill it...does that happen often? That could happen. There is usually a minimum quantity of water that needs to be in a tub for a jetted tub to operate. That volume will put the water level above the jets, preventing the pump from cavitating. Some folks on the forum with smallish water heaters have mentioned that they fill the tub as much as they can, climb in and soak while the water heater is recharging, then fill it more while bathing. Remember, your body will displace water as well, raising the water level. So the answer? Yes, it could be a factor. How much of a factor depends on your water heater's volume and recycle time. That's not a question I'd be able to answer. Mongo

Haven't done it, but priced Corian when doing our master bath. The local place charged $1400 per slab, and fabbed it into whatever you wanted.

Does the joint where the glass wall tile meets the deck need a special glass molding? I would prefer none just glass tile to solid surface. You can run the wall tile right to the tub deck, and caulk the intersection with color and texture matched caulk. Borders/liners are added for aesthetic and transitional interest. Sometimes it's purely design, sometimes for function, sometimes a combination. If your glass tile can stand on its own, and you'd prefer it to do so, then let it. I've not ever seen a glass grab bar or hand rail. Clear polycarbonate (I think it was PC) yes, but glass, no. Mongo

My bathroom is currently being built. We just had someone come out to measure the tub surround/shower bench area before fabricating the Caesarstone countertop. We thought we would have a countertop lip going out over the vertical tile. Luckily we realized that this would create a gap in the hinge area of the glass door--and we had the fabricator remeasure. The tub surround will have an overhang everywhere except by the shower bench/door hinge area where the Caesarstone will be flush. Hopefully everything will work out! If you are interested I will post pictures when it's done.