Lush but Xeric in Dallas
15 years ago
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- 15 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 15 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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For TxRanger and anyone else with Xeric interests
Comments (6)My established one really took a hit last winter with some top kill. It had gotten so tall that I'd planned to trim it back 1/3 so things weren't so bad but it took its time recovering and fully leafing out. All seems fine now and it finally bloomed, 1st time just last week. The small ones died back to the roots, probably all from that one dip down to +3 degrees or some such ridiculous temp. but after April or somewhere there abouts, they came around, whew! Green Cloud blooms more often and heavier than the silver leaf one but I had to take him out (sob) since it was down by the street turning into a giant. I didn't know they got THAT big. I looked at the article, the one called Silver Cloud sounds like the one I'd really want. I'm going to google to see if there's any sources. Its sold locally around here but I haven't shopped plants the whole season outside of the one sale I went to and trips to Farmer's Market. We don't have the variety like you's guys down in Texas. The woman up the street dug all hers out real early. Duh. I did a serious eyeball roll since she didn't give them a chance to see if they'd made it through or not. She replaced them with--of all things--- Stella D'oro (?) Day Lillie's or what ever the heck they are called----Gads! Like all this city needs is more Stella D. L's. like you see in nearly every formal office planting situation....See Morecan mint work with xeric plants?
Comments (9)I'd like to chime in regarding spearmint, peppermint, pineapple mint and corsican mint (the four mints I'm growing). My spearmint, peppermint, and pineapple mint all get full sun and a deep watering (clay soil here) once every one to two weeks (except during the hundred degree stretches, where I water every 4-5 days or whenever the plants look wilty). They are all fine but would probably be more lush and invasive if I gave them more water. I did water more frequently when I first planted them (peppermint and spearmint from cuttings) but they've been growing a few years now and can handle the stress. Corsican mint wants shade and waaaay more water, I don't recommend that for your area though it's a very nice groundcover for shady moist areas. I think you could grow spearmint and peppermint in the spot you describe. You'll be surprised at how resiliant these mints are once they become established. Mint is inexpensive, try a couple plants. HTH Melanie...See MoreJust bought some Xeric type herbs...
Comments (9)You shouldn't use your garden soil for container growing. It will turn into something you and your plants won't be happy with in a very short time. Use a peat/bark/perlite combo and forget the chards in the bottom. Things like that don't improve drainage, they just take up valuable space. Use one chard, if you need to, to cover the hole in the bottom. I use plastic needle point grid for that job. If you decide to purchase some ready made potting medium, try to find something without added moisture crystals, fertilizers, etc. Add a healthy amount of the perlite to it. Then you'll have something with good drainage! I'd encourage you to judge watering needs by the SOIL, not whether or not the plant is wilting. How often depends upon how much sunlight, if the container is in a hot location (as in reflected heat or light), etc. You'll soon be able to judge. We're having similar temperatures as you, right now. Horrible. We are watering most plants on a daily basis, though some get it more than that. You need to be generous with the watering. In a good, fast-draining potting mix, all of the excess will empty out rapidly. Then you can judge how long it takes for the soil volume to become somewhat dry. Never totally dry, just not cold and moist feeling. You'll need to use your fingers to judge the soil a few inches deep. Never judge by what the surface looks like. Watering at mid-day won't burn your plants, but it's not the most efficient time. Early morning is probably best in terms of the plant's well-being....See MoreWhat Vegetables to Grow in Dallas
Comments (16)I live in the dallas area. Since I transplanted them we had 2 cold spells below 40 degrees. While not optimal, an occasional dip below 40 is not a big deal for a well hardened off transplant. Mid-thirties or below may be another story. But, since you're planting in buckets, those buckets could be put in the garage, shed, etc. if something like that were to happen. In addition, the plants can be taken out to harden off and catch the sun even when temps are still occasionally freezing at night. Just bring them in at night. :) If I waited until it was *guaranteed* consistently above 40 every single night to plant, most years I'd get my plants in too late to do much of anything in the way of good fruitset. I am careful at first when I harden them off - for example I would not deliberately expose seedlings to 40F the first night. But after a week or so, I might come close to it (around 42F). Before that happens, they will have first seen a couple of temps in the low 50's, then the mid 40's, etc. The reason why is because I want them tough and able to withstand the inevitable cool night or two they will get after I plant them out. Several people told me I had started to early. A good time to start seeds in your area is around the 15th-18th of Jan. Here I start seeds around the 7th to 9th. My recommendation to start them a couple weeks earlier next year is based on how your plants look at this time. They are now about (or close to) the size you would have wanted to have planted a couple of weeks ago. Actually, I prefer transplants to be just a little larger than that, but yours are big enough. I know I planted my peppers to late. I always start my peppers later than I should, because I am usually busy in late Dec. They tend to germinate and grow slower than tomatoes, so I prefer to start them a week or two before the tomatoes. To make up for it somewhat, I use a heat mat to help them germinate quickly. Plus, they can be planted a week or two later than tomatoes. In general, peppers do not tolerate cool nights as well as tomatoes. But yes, start earlier next year with peppers if you can. But as for my tomatoes I will get them planted this weekend after the swap if I have the time. Right now they get 16 hours of light and the temp sits about 85 - 90 degrees ( a little high but the Tomatoes have grown several inches faster than if they were outside. In general, growing seedlings on the cool side (temps at 55-68F range) is my preferred method, as it makes for a stocky plant with better root development. Sure, the plants will grow slower, but warmer conditions will tend to favor top growth, and cooler conditions will tend to favor root development. You want the latter. Right now I have a box fan setup and blows on them when the light is on them. They should be wind hardened. That's good and does help, but be aware there will still be some adjustment when you put them outside as the wind is normally much stronger than the breeze from a fan. Once I transplant them to their buckets. I am not sure how to harden off for the sun. should I put them under a tree where its shady most of the day and if so how many days should I harden them? I would harden off first before you plant in the buckets. Take about a week to do this, especially if you have several hot days when doing so. Under a tree would be fine, if you know that area is going to be shady most of the day, especially midday and hot afternoon sun. Go easy the first day (no more than an 30-45 min total of direct sun unless it is overcast), then gradually move them out further away from the tree for more exposure....See MoreRelated Professionals
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- 15 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 15 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 15 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 15 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 15 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 15 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 15 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 15 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 15 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 15 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 15 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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