Thoughts on Removing Tomato Flowers
digit
12 years ago
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digit
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Yellowing tomatoes, thoughts?
Comments (7)Kelly, Yellowing of tomato foliage is not just a symptom of disease. It also could be a symptom of stress (of any kind) or a symptom of a nitrogen deficiency. Celebrity is one of the more disease-resistant tomato varieties out there and it generally performs very well in our climate. Run through this checklist of possible causes of yellowing leaves and see if anything on it sounds like a good possibility: Plant roots are too wet Plant roots are too dry Plant is alternating between being very wet one day and very dry the next (strive to keep soil evenly moist and to avoid the two extremes) Plant roots are too hot (often a problem in dark-colored containers) Plant has had moisture on the foliage and has developed powdery mildew (see link) Plant has had a lot of watering and the available nitrogen is leaching out of the soil, so plant is starving for nitrogen Plant was initially overfed nitrogen which caused an imbalance between top growth and roots. The smaller root system is strugglng to support all the top growth. The plant has suffered some sort of damage to its vascular system The plant is in the early stages of Early Blight. Sometimes you'll see the yellowing first and then the concentric brown ringed spots appear on the leaves. If the yellowing foliage is occurring from the bottom up, to some extent the older, lower leaves will often be shaded out by newer top growth and senescence occurs. This is normal. It also is normal for lower leaves to die naturally of old age. By then, they have served their purpose and the bulk of the photosynthesis is now being conducted by newer, younger leaves and the older leaves simply turn yellow and drop off. This is normal beavior. The plant has suffered from salt damage. This can occur if your water is high in salt or if fertilizer salts have accumulated in the container and watering is not leaching them out of the growing medium. It also can occur if someone uses Epsom Salts as a fertilizer and gives too much, or too strong of a solution, to plants---especially in containers. I've linked a photo of salt damage below. While you're at the TAMU Tomato Problem Solver, navigate back to the 'leaf' page and check out the photo of powdery mildew, which often shows up as yellow splotches on the leaves. Also, check the undersides of the leaves carefully for small pests. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato Foliage--Salt Damage...See Morethoughts about this tomato "cage" design
Comments (7)I'm assuming your greenhouse is a kit? Unfortunately, you won't be able to keep an 8x12 greenhouse cool enough in the summer, while giving your plants the light they need. I have a homemade greenhouse for my orchids, that measures 8x14 with a 9-foot peak. I have two 24" fans, one on the intake at ground level and the other on the exhaust side, each putting out about 3500 CFM. (Retail greenhouses are notorious for having undersized exhaust openings, which don't allow enough airflow. Passive roof vents don't move enough air, especially if the heat gain is high.) The intake side blows through a "chiller" compartment I built on the side, that has about a dozen fogging nozzles...but that only is effective at a relative humidity value below about 35-40%. Despite all this, when it's 90F outside and the direct sun is hitting the structure, I'm lucky if I can keep the inside temp at ~95F. When the humidity is under 25% and the chiller is running, I can expect 5 to 8 degrees below ambient outside temps. Here in the Florida panhandle, that only occurs a few days in the springtime. I have just under 1,000 cubic feet of interior volume, but interior obstructions, hanging plants, benches, etc., keep my turnover somewhere between 60 and 90 seconds. Static air, especially humid air, has "weight." If you use the calculators you find online for sizing fans, you'll be way under what you need. A few years ago I only had a single fan running on the exhaust side. I remember I got into hot water when the fan died, and I couldn't locate another quickly to replace it. I opened the door, but temps inside rocketed to 120F during the day. Now I always keep a backup for emergencies! As far as tomatoes go, I would use your greenhouse as more of a cold frame to get your plants started early, and plant outside during the summer. You may have luck with a fall/winter crop inside, but heating will be a challenge depending upon your nightly lows. Another problem planting in the ground, inside the greenhouse, is soil compaction. I guarantee there won't be a lot of room for you to move around, and you'll have difficulty tilling and tending the soil in tight quarters. A *woops* with the blade of a shovel could ruin an expensive polycarbonate panel! Don't mean to be a Debbie downer... -Bruce...See MoreWhen to/not to remove flowers, when to/not to remove stems
Comments (4)I never remove flowers, but I also don't ever plant tomatoes with flowers already on them (I plant them when they are 8-10 weeks from seed and they never seem to have buds by this point). A lot of my plants had little flowers on them when they are 12-18" tall in the ground (planted deep) and I left them, a few fell off with some cold nights we had. A few of the flowers have set and I have some 2" green tomatoes now. The plants didn't stop growing because the fruit had set - they are all good sized now some in the 3-4ft range which is pretty good for southeastern PA. My opinion is that the plants know better than we do when they are ready to set and mature fruit - so I leave it alone as far as that goes and have had good results... AND early tomatoes :) As far as pruning goes, 3-5 main stems is fine if tying off is your method of support. What I had tried when I had done pruning was develop some main stems and then prune suckers to a point and where the plants reached a decent height, then I just let them go nuts and drape back down towards the ground. Production was good and they were mostly manageable, although not very pretty, heh. Sure some fell over and some branches may have snapped in storms, but by that point it was nearing the end of the growing season and the extra production, as compared to continued pruning, was worth it. A little off subject, but have you ever heard of doing the florida weave technique? Relatively cheap and less maintenance than traditional staking. Personally, I've gone to cages and never looked back. It was an investment up front but since I plan on growing every year I can, they'll pay for themselves in time saved and production before long....See MoreMy tomato updates and thoughts
Comments (17)Love the information and the explanations....I have a little to share, and much to learn! I am trying to not have the maters control me...so I try to limit myself. I replace the duds quickly (the next year). I agree about the EG's. Mine grew well, made OK salsa, and tasted fair at best. I so love my Cherokee Purple's! I am moving slowly from containers to raised beds (containers did well, even with indeterminates). More learning needed.......See Morecolokid
12 years agoelkwc
12 years agodavid52 Zone 6
12 years agodigit
12 years agooakiris
12 years ago
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