It might not have died. Often if the environmental conditions suddenly change on them (amount of water, sun, heat), the leaves will yellow and drop off and it looks dead but it's not. The leaves will eventually resprout just fine. Just water it when the soil begins to dry, give it lots of warmth and sun if possible, and wait to see what happens. Don't overwater though as what is left might rot out. They can resprout along the trunk and if yours does, then you can resume fertilizing.

Bermuda will quickly give you a spotty look if mowed wrong or with a dull blade, so keep that in mind. My method isn't very special or scientific, but it makes for a consistent color at any time. Bermuda can take a lot of abuse & won't burn up in the sun, so have fun with it--you can't kill it with anything but shade. You will have mountains of clippings, so work on your soil biology to help break it all down. If it starts getting scraggly & tall looking, check that thatch layer & dont let it build up.

That the garden was "very productive" 5 years ago means nothing today, soil is not static and has changed though you have grown nothing there except maybe grass. Start with a good reliable soil test. Unfortunately Purdue does not do them, however the University of Kentucky will do this and maybe the people at the Purdue Cooperative Extension Service would be of help in interpreting the report. In addition to a good reliable soil test for soil pH and major nutrient levels these simple soil tests may also be of some use. 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. limmq is kimmsr

Whatever colors you choose, get a sample pot and paint a large piece of board or cardboard in that color. Look at it at different times of day since the light changes. We see too many sad posts on Houzz where people have been disappointed in the way a color looks over larger areas, and in outdoor light. When you do your plants, make your beds at least 6 feet deep. That may seem huge, but you need to have the first foot along your house bare, so you can access it for maintenance. Then, any decent size shrubs will probably be about 4 feet wide at maturity. (Check your tag on online where you'll see this information. ) That leaves you a foot in front of the shrubs if you want to plant any annuals. When you plant a shrub that's 4 feet wide at maturity, the center of the planting hole should be 3 feet from your house (2 feet from the center to the edge of the mature shrub, plus one foot space to house.) Before your shrubs are mature it may look a bit bare. Just plant self-seeding annuals in between and you'll plant fewer every year as the shrubs grow. I like annual white sweet alyssum which doesn't have deep roots and won't interfere with the shrubs' growth. Or use native plants that behave the same way. (We don't know where you live.) It's less expensive and more beautiful than mulching a large area with bark chips, and it will come back from seed next year. Google "green mulch" and you'll see what other have to say about this idea. If there is someone in your neighborhood whose front garden you admire, stop by when they are outside and ask about it. I have given so many cuttings and divisions of my garden plants to people. https://www.houzz.com/magazine/new-ways-to-think-about-all-that-mulch-in-the-garden-stsetivw-vs~25100660