You may want to apply corn meal or cracked corn at 10 lbs per 1000 ft. It takes approx 3 weeks to see if it works. This usually takes care of my fungal problems and it usually happens this time of year when you have hot and humid summer nights. If you water at night then please stop because this creates a great environment for fungal diseases in the lawn.

Agreed. Looks like micronutrients are in order, Trojan. This is a pretty common sight here in our neck of the woods (Orange County, San Diego County, Calif.) due to our long, chilly and wet winter and spring. Many of my citrus looked this way. I spoke with Vince Lazaneo, the Home Horticultural Advisor for the San Diego Master Gardeners about a couple of my citrus, and he also suspected micronutrient deficiency. I use Grow More Citrus Growers Blend, which is an excellent product that provides micronutrients in the correct percentages and concentrations for citrus. I have applied it twice, now to my affected citrus. First time as a foliar spray, and then about 4 weeks later, to the soil, diluted in 2 gallons of water, and then followed up with an additional 2 gallons of acidified water (I use plain old white vinegar, and acidify to 4.5-5.0, use a pH meter, they can be found at any better garden center, and they're cheap insurane). The acidified water will help the tree take up and absorb the micronutrients. And, for your new trees, you will want to fertilize twice a month during the growing season (for us that's about April through November) with a good citrus fertilizer that has micronutrients. Vigoro Citrus & Avocado fertilizer with micronutrients is decent. You really want to find one with a high sulfur micronutrient content, as this will help to acidify our somewhat alkaline soils. You can also use soil sulfur once or twice a year as a top dressing to help out our pH issue. If we we a lot of cold weather, and a lot of rain, that, along with our somewhat alkaline soils will cause a locking out of micronutrients, and your citrus will look like what you're seeing right now. And, as far as amending your soil - I don't recommend that. You're going to create this yummy "hole" that your citrus roots are not going to want to leave. You're better off just digging a hole twice as large as your root ball and backfilling with your native soil. Loosen up the soil, and make sure you don't create slick sides in the hole from your shovel. Fill that hole up with water. Wait 24 hours. If the hole has not drained by then, you have a drainage issue, and in that case, you WILL want to amend with some gypsum. Otherwise, you're good to plant. Backfill with native soil, taking care to water in well to remove any air pockets. Keep the rootball at soil level (unless you're in clay, and then elevate the top of the rootball a few inches). Create a nice large well that extends to at least the drip line (tree canopy). You'll want to extend this well as your canopy grows. Set your drips to drip in the drip line of your well. Then, fill with about 1 to 2" of worm castings, another layer of compost, then top with bark mulch. Be sure to keep all clear of the trunk by a few inches all the way around. Water in well. Then, sprinkle your fertilizer around the well ring at the drip line, and water than in. Paint your trunk and exposed branches with indoor water soluble flat latex house paint diluted in half with water to protect the trunk and branches from sunscald. That's how to plant a fruit tree here in S. California :-) Deep water during the hot summer months 2 times a week, then cut back to once a week in the winter, or no watering at all if we're getting rains. Top dress with soil sulfur once or twice a year. I usually will top dress at the beginning of the growing season in April, when I start fertilizing, and then again, around June or so, when our weather starts to heat up. Remember, NEVER fertilize or apply sulfur to dry trees. Okay, probably more than you wanted to know, but certainly I hope will help your little kumquat green up :-) Patty S. Here is a link that might be useful: UC Davis: The California Backyard Orchard: Citrus

I can't see what the out-of-focus white spots are, but the shrub is an oleander with what appears to be severe freeze injury. Foliar damage to oleanders is typical in SC. The stems still look green, though. When I lived in SC (Beaufort), I'd recommend that injured oleanders be cut all the way to the ground (ALL the way) in the early spring. These shrubs will grow back better than ever the very first year. If you can take a close-up of those white spots, we'll try to ID the problem for you.

Those leaves look like they have a Manganese deficiency. I don't know what ocean based nutrients are, but I know urine does not have enough manganese, or many other micro-nutrients. I'd suggest getting a complete citrus fertilizer made for container culture. Many hydroponic shops will carry this, or you can order online. Foliage Pro is very popular on this forum and also Osmocote Plus. I've never heard of citrus getting TMV, so I doubt it. Especially since it looks so much like lack of Manganese, which is much more common. As far as what type of orange, that's a tough one. Best I can say is that it's a Mandarin of some kind. Do you remember where you got it? Maybe the retailer will remember.