looks like sun scald to me too. I have Bells and we had 3 100+ days here in Texas and like yours only the ones real high and unprotected looks like yours. They will be soft near the brown area. I would leave them on the plant until something actually opens a hole, or just pick and eat or freeze them now. If you have like a six foot pole holding your plant, I'd try draping some window screen over pole and let it form like a screen tent over your bells. leave it loose so it doesn't damage your plant with the wind.

I believe that's blossom end rot which, especially in peppers, can happen on the sides of the pepper as well as at the blossom end. The reason? Calcium deficiency, which can come from soil overwatering, and application of high nitrogen fertilizer.

Jean- I'll contact the extension service and see if they can tell me. Whatever it was stopped after I sprayed that dr. Earth organic pesticide on it. However, since I posted those pics have had an insurgence of Japanese beetles into my yard. While they have been primarily targeting my lilacs, spruce, and river birch trees, I have seen them eating my basil and peppers. I am pretty sure it was something different was originally eating the peppers in the pic above. as the Japanese beetles leave actual holes in the leaves- only the skeleton of the leaves remain.

What nutes are you using? Also, what kind of system are you running? How close are you keeping the T5's? Do you have any way to test PPM or, more preferably, EC of your solution? The plants are still pretty young and I know you said you're running at 1/4 strength, but it's very easy over feed young peppers. Although, it looks more like a deficiency to me than toxicity. Depending on your nutes and pH, you also should be wary of calcium lockout. I may be wrong, but I believe a pH of 5.5 is on the acidic end of preferable calcium uptake. I've found my peppers do best with the pH around 5.9-6.3. I apologize for all the questions! -Randy