Agree with John in putting the soil back over the small roots. Citrus are shallow rooted trees, so you definitely want to cover those small roots. What we usually do not do here is pile the soil up against the trunk higher than where the original soil line was in the pot (unless the soil was obviously too low). JR, here's how I plant my citrus trees in S. California. As long as you're not on clay, this should work for you. I dig a hole about 2 to 3 times as wide as the pot. I fill the hole up twice with water, letting it drain out. I then plant the tree so that the trunk will be at the level of the soil. If I see roots circling the pot, I try to gently loosen then, or if I have to, carefully trim them, so they grow straight out and not in a circle. I use a long-handled rake or shovel to be sure my tree doesn't get planted to deep or too high. I back fill with native soil - I do NOT amend my soil. I create a nice deep well around the drip line or a little ways out. I fill that well with a combination of chicken manure (not too much), and compost. It is also where I'll broadcast fertilizer in about a month. I then fill with about 3 to 4 inches of chopped wood mulch to help conserve water. I take care not to pile the chicken manure/compost or the mulch up against the tree trunk (although it does end up migrating towards the trunk if the wells get overfull, so I do try to move the mulch away from the trunks periodically). I deep water the tree, then place it on a drip. Every year I re-fill the well with compost/manure and re-mulch. This gives the tree just what it needs: Great nutrients percolating down to the feeder roots, just like Mother Nature would provide. John, with only about 5 to 10" of rainfall a year out here, we have to mulch our trees. The only issue I get now and then, are slugs and snails hiding out in the mulch, so I will wrap the trunk with a bit of copper tape, and sprinkle Sluggo in the wells. Rhizo is right on about the mulch, especially in areas like mine, where our soils are thin (I'm on just about pure DG, awesome great for drainage, not so great for micronutrients.) The compost/manure and the mulch make a big difference for me and all my plants, not just my citrus and avocados :-) Plus, everything looks very nice, and keeps the weeding down to a very bare minimum. Essential when you have an acre and no one to help you weed! And now, after a couple of years, I can reach down a few inches into the soil and see nice, rich black topsoil that is full of earthworms. Perfect way to grow any plant, especially citrus. Patty S.

Humm...I think you may be right, I was at the garden center a few weeks ago and my citruses actually looked better than theirs. Since then I've brought them inside and they've lost some leaves due to the adjustment. Plus my existing citruses have buggie issues (scale, aphids, and mites) which I treat with cotton swab treated with alcohol as well as occasional Neem sprays. When they came indoors the bugs went nuts so I've done a major cleaning but there has been some leaf drop. They are covered with blossoms though. They are also kept away from the plant for my brother. Your comments about the different feeding probably explains the Key Lime being smaller than the Meyer. I figure I'll do the transplant and hold onto it until it's ready to move. My brother's place will have a nice sun room, no bug infected neighbors, and he's local so I can/will provide any major care. I just wish I could get rid of the bugs once and for all. They came with an ornamental tree I took over from a friend who moved over 8 years ago. Alcohol is my friend...

To the above excellent advice, I would add the following: 1. Any Mexican/Key lime grafts will be *significantly* less hardy than the "Meyer" lemon stock. So any grafts would probably do better if they were protected by "Meyer" lemon growth above -- such growth would tend to act as a protective umbrella during freezes. However, as mentioned above, the grafts would probably be less vigorous than the "Meyer" branches and shoots. So the best practice would be to graft the lime onto apically dominant stock shoots. The problem is, of course, that the most apically dominant portions of your existing tree will be found at the top of the plant! So you need to find a balance. You might, for example, find a vigorous, watersprout-type shoot, and then trace it down to its base, cut it off low, and put a graft on there. (Or, if you prefer, t-bud some lime down there, and then cut the shoot off.) 2. Meyer lemons are quite ornamental. Mexican/Key limes are much less attractive. They're rather twiggy/scrubby in appearance. Even if you like that look, any lime grafts would be quite difference in appearance than the stock plant growth -- so they would probably stand out, and might mar the ornamental value of your tree. The ideal way to get around this is to put the lime grafts on whichever side of the "Meyer" that is least visible from your house or yard.

wow, those are tiny, i agree with John, they do look like rooted cuttings. since you're up north in the cold, i'd also recommend Al's gritty mix. since cold temps and too much moisture in the soil will cause root rot. citrus do not like wet feet. FYI before it gets cold, once your night temps drop below 40'F you'll want to bring your citrus indoors, provide ample lighting, decrease the amount of water they get. you can look in the 'growing under lights' forum to get some ideas. possible setups: 4' shoplight with fluorescent tubes, metal halyde lamp, high pressure sodium lamp, high wattage CFL's (spiral bulbs).