It is likely you will get blooms because they were formed before the bulbs lost their leaves last season. What might happen, though, is that they won't last long in flower with the high temperatures you're experiencing. (75F) That much warmth reminds bulbs to finish with the fancy florals and get ready for dormancy to survive the heat ahead. I suspect that's why you fridge them - so they're primed to take advantage of the very short spring between the end of winter and the onset of long summer. (Our spring tends to meander along between August and November, with only the northern parts rushing into warmer days.)

"wait, wait...are you saying I can put six HUNDRED plants in a 10x10 plot???" Those yields are based upon a degree of soil conditioning that is very labor-intensive... and while I have read of such recommendations, I have yet to see photos, or hear first-hand observations, proving that they would work for most gardeners. All of the digging aside, in my area, I'd be flirting with disaster if I crowded my beans that closely. Personally, I wouldn't recommend it. Most bush beans - when healthy & mature - have a footprint of 1/2 - 1 sq. ft. or larger. 100 plants (1 per sq. ft.) should be a safe bet; I've successfully used 6" between plants w/ 2-foot spacing between rows, which is close to the same thing. You might be able to get away with 2-3 plants per sq. ft. for the more compact varieties. Crowding more closely than that may work in the warm dry climate of California; but in the cooler, wetter Northern climes, it could lead to severe disease problems. I'm not saying that it wouldn't work... just that I wouldn't put all my eggs in that one basket, unless/until small-scale trials proved it to be successful. In a post above, I had mentioned "seed efficiency". To put that in perspective, large kidney beans are somewhere in the neighborhood of 40-60 seeds per ounce. If planted at the recommended bio-intensive density of 600+ for a 10' X 10' plot, you would need between 10-16 ounces of seed to plant... so you would need to buy (or save from the previous season) a pound of seed. Assuming you harvest 24 pounds of dry seed (which is, keep in mind, the best case scenario), it would represent a return of between 24/1 & 38/1, depending upon seed size. Most gardeners would get much less than that, since the maximum is for experienced gardeners, on well amended soil. In contrast, my observations are that large-seeded bush beans, given the 6" plant/2' row spacing I mentioned above, are easily capable of a seed increase of between 50/1 - 100/1. Small-seeded types will tend to yield about the same weight/plant, but at an even higher ratio of increase, well over 100/1... so in terms of cost effectiveness (if purchasing seed) small is often better. Pole beans can do better still; the "Striped Cornfield" I grew this year (@45 seeds/oz.) produced a return of over 500/1! My results were obtained by mechanical tilling, with leaves & mulch turned under each season. Using these numbers, the same kidney beans - if grown in 5 rows in the same 10' X 10' plot - would be 100 plants. This would produce between 5 & 10 pounds of seed minimum... with only 2 ounces of seed required for planting, the average in a packet of beans. Also, at this spacing, the plants have sufficient air flow through the foliage to minimize the chances of disease during prolonged periods of rainfall. Having tested that theory in some very bad years recently (such as in 2008) I consider these yields to be realistically attainable, year after year. I don't doubt that my spacings could be improved upon; it is something that I often experiment with. Most likely, there is a happy medium somewhere between row spacing & high-density plantings which will produce the best yield, for a given area, with the littlest possible seed. That "happy medium" should take into account the expected annual variations in climate, since what works well one year, might not work the next. With soybeans, I have had some success with closely-spaced double rows, with standard row spacing between the pairs... so that may work for bush beans as well. Given the observations I have made on over 100 bean varieties over the years, I expect the optimal spacing will vary widely, depending upon variety, climate, and soil fertility. So there is really no "one correct answer" for bean spacing... just starting points for personal experimentation. Keep in mind, John Jeavons' bio-intensive recommendations mentioned above pertain to bush beans only. Pole beans are not suitable for wide bed planting, due to shading. However, you can have the best of both worlds using pole beans. Planted in a single row on the North side of the bed (where they would not shade shorter crops), they take up a relatively small footprint. A high-yielding pole variety could give you 3-4 pounds of dry seed from one row in that same 10' X 10' bed. You could use the majority of the bed(s) for other things, and still get a good crop of beans. My apologies for all of the long (and probably dry) posts, but as an amateur researcher, I just wanted to share some "bean science". Just wish this was on the Bean Forum.

Hi Kathy, Like rhizo said, nevermind terryb -- I've seen post after post from him not offering anything constructive, useful or helpful. Let's get started.... Just beginning how bad have a I messed up? Not at all! You're fine.... One of the best things about natural/organic turf programs is that organic fertilizer may be applied any day, any time of day, and at any amount without fear of hurting the turf. You've put down quite a bit of fertilizer already this season, so you don't need any more at the moment, but we'll come back to that in a bit. Do I need to apply compost when the Bermuda is starting to break dormancy or while it is still dormant? You can apply compost now or later or you can choose not to, it's not really mandatory. The primary purpose of applying compost is the introduction of beneficial microorganisms. Unless your lawn's been really hammered with lots of chemicals in the last few years, there are soil microbes there already & feeding them in the form of organic protein based fertilizers will cause them to multiply. The application of compost is sort of a shortcut in this process. IMHO the only problem with applying compost is that it's quite a labor intensive backbreaking process. It requires about a cubic yard of compost for every 1000sqft of turf & to apply, you take it out in a wheelbarrow, shovel it out & then use a broom and/or landscape rake to spread. I did it in early March last year & frankly, If I had it to do over, I'd apply compost tea instead. Far easier, far less expensive & still you get the benefit you're after of the introduction of beneficial microorganisms. To learn more about compost tea, you can look in the Soil & Compost forum FAQ's and don't miss checking out Deuley's Little Texas Tea Brewer for instructions on a very inexpensive home brewer. Should I apply anymore fertilizer this growing season or wait till fall? Bermuda is a "heavy feeder", it likes fertilizer. I applied alfalfa pellets 3 wks ago & now my bermuda's coming out of dormancy, so I applied soybean meal a few days ago. I'll apply soybean meal @ 14-15lbs per 1000sqft approx every 4 to 6 weeks until first frost. Then I get to take a break til next spring. You can see the results of organically feeding my bermudagrass by looking at my member page (but beware, if you have dial-up, it;ll take a while for the page to load, I have many pics on there.) Any thoughts on lime? Only apply lime if you do a soil test & the test indicates you need lime to adjust the PH level. Keep in mind that now that you're feeding your microherd, you'll be naturally shifting PH towards neutral. Well, that's my 2 cents & I hope it helps some. Good day, Dan

Leslie, I have had a couple calls from someone who ia looking for a person that I have never met, but I do know who she is. This person's first time could indicate a male or female, and the caller assumed it was a male. I realized from what was being said who they were referring to. She is the daughter of my DGD's ex MIL. They live in CA; I'm in VA. I have no idea how they got my number and made any connection. My DGD says it is no doubt a Collection Agency! Don't worry about it, but don't give them any info if they call back. Sue