You might look into some of these types. I'm not 100% certain of what zone you are in, but I would think that most of these would work in your zone. I believe that all of these are mid to late season bloomers. This is a really great book if you are considering apple varieties to grow ---- The Best Apples to Buy and Grow, B. Hanson, Brooklyn Botanic Garden, Inc. (2005) Varieties With Reputations As The BEST Tasting Gala Crisp, dense, aromatic flesh. Excellent quality. Stores well. Large, vigorous tree. Requires about 140-160 days from bloom to harvest. Requires at least 600 hours of chilling. Fuji A yellow-green skin with orange to red stripes. Crisp, juicy, white flesh with good texture. Requires about 140-160 days from bloom to harvest. Ripens mid-summer. Stores well. Susceptible to Bitter rot and red mites. Heat resistant. Requires 400-600 hours of chilling. Granny Smith - Medium to large, waxy, grassy-green fruit. Firm and bruise resistant. Hardy, crisp, juicy, white flesh. Fairly sweet with a somewhat tart taste. Excellent quality eating and cooking apple. Keeps good texture during baking, never gets mushy. Excellent shelf life. Self-fertile. Requires about 170-210 days from bloom to harvest. Holds well in heat. Requires about 500-600 hours of chilling. Hardy in zones 5-8. Braeburn Red, highly flavored with an even sugar to acid balance. Mutsu (Crispin) Large, round, yellow fruit. Crunchier flesh; more juice and tartness. Distinctive, delicate, spicy flavor. Good dessert and processing apple. Excellent for applesauce and cider. Resistant to powdery mildew. Susceptible to scab, blister spot, and bitter rot. Requires 500-600 hours of chilling. Hardy in zones 4-8. Honeycrisp Pink Lady(Cripps Pink) Cross between Golden Delicious and Lady Williams from the Western Australian apple-breeding program. Oblong, green fruit turns yellow at maturity and is overlaid with pink or light red. Fine-grained, white flesh. Thin skin, bruises easily. Chilling requirements similar to Granny Smith (500-600) Ashmead's Kernel A juicy, aromatic apple with a sharp flavor that is both acidic and sweet. It is believed that several weeks of storage enhance its flavor giving its high acid content time to balance with the sugars. Skin is orange or reddish bronze with golden brown russetting. William's Pride This variety is reputed to have unusually good flavor for an early summer apple. The flesh is granular, crisp and mildly acidic. It is resistant to fire blight and powdery mildew and immune to scab and cedar apple rust. Goldrush This variety has a spicy flavor of intense acidity and high sugar content. It is a yellow green fruit with light russetting, sometimes having an orange blush on the sunward side. It may keep for six months or more. It is immune to apple scab and somewhat resistant to fire blight and powdery mildew. Calville Blanc D'Hiver Known for having a tart and rich taste described as effervescent. It often tastes better after storage. It has pale green skin that develops an orange color with light red dots where exposed to the sun. It can be susceptible to scab and powdery mildew. Rubinette An offspring of Cox Orange Pippen. A very good sweet and sharp balance of taste. It can be susceptible to scab and powdery mildew. The following three varieties are reputed to have fantastic taste. They are not as hardy though and may be more susceptible to disease: Newtown Pippin: This apple is firm, crisp, juicy, and moderately acidic with a fresh taste. Loved by Thomas Jefferson and was a prized export to England from the United States in the 1800s. It is green in color becoming yellow to greenish-yellow with a reddish blush. It stores well. The tree is susceptible to scab and powdery mildew. Cox Orange Pippin: It has a crisp texture and a richly aromatic and semi-tart flavor. It became the most popular apple in England and dates back to the early 1800s. The skin has an orange red blush on a light yellow background. It is susceptible to scab. Esopus Spitzenberg: This variety is rich, juicy, and more tart than sweet. Known as another one of Thomas Jefferson's favorite apples -- along with a lot of other people. Often ranks at the top of taste tests. The skin is red with speckles of yellow. This variety is susceptible to scab, mildew and canker. Here is a link that might be useful: dallasfruitgrower

Upnort: Don't base your planting decisions based on tasting only one apple of a variety. There are many factors that can influence the taste and quality of apples, and these vary from year to year, and place to place. The consensus on Honeycrisp is that it is a marvelous apple when grown in zones 4-5 or even a little lower. There are just too many people that rave about it for it to be a dud, and I have never seen a comment that it leaves a dry taste in your mouth. The Honeycrisps I have eaten were very, very good. I would be growing it here if my climate was more like Minnesota. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

You may be able to find a local fruit growing club in your area. Either do a web search, check with Nafex (North American Fruit Explorers), or contact living history museums in your area. When I joined Backyard Fruit GRowers (based in Lancaster PA) I got to learn to graft, as well as gaining access to about 300 varieties of apples, pears, small fruits, et cetera. They also host an apple tasting meeting for members every fall. perhaps there is a local group in your area? Last fall I attended the tasting meeting and tried a wonderful apple called Ditlow's Hardwinter, which tasted like the perfect candy-apple apple. You know, the perfect blend of crisp, sweet, and tart, and big, too. Unfortunately, the only member who lists the tree just passed away in December. His name was Bob Ditlow. Somehow, I don't think the names are a coincidence. If you learn to graft, you can make your own multi-variety trees with YOUR choice of varieties. You can also grow dwarf trees and espallier them to walls, fences, trellises...well you get the idea. Dwarf trees are also much easier to care for, since you can reach the tops much easier. I spray mine with an organic horticultural oil (when I remember). Of course, I'm not selling them and I don't mind a few bug spots. If I did, I'd be more diligent with the oil.

I am thinking the same coastal influence that keeps temperatures from ever having any real chill may also be the same influence that keeps the temperatures from ever having any highs in the winter. This is important, because chill hour accumulation are as much about hot days in the winter as it is the actual number of chill hours a plant gets. An unseasonably warm winter day can really detract from the number of effective chill hours the plant experiences. The plant is going to need several days of cold to make up for one very warm day. Try planting the tree out in the inland desert region of California and it really will need 800 hours of chill. The other factor that helps too is that Winter is the rainiest cloudiest time of the year in Southern California; this helps keep the temperature from rising on any particular day. Fruit trees are capable of accumulating some effective chill (albeit only to a small degree) at temperatures that are not as cold, so it is not as if the temperature absolutely has to be below 45 F for the plant to get any chill.