Dwarfers Bonsai people??
11 years ago
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- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
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Just bought my first bonsai......need help
Comments (6)Derek, The tree looks fine, good pictures by the way. If the top dressing is glued down it will need to be removed. The soil underneath looks really dark and heavy as is common with mass produced bonsai. If this is the case you should really consider a re-pot this spring. Don't try to acclimatize it to cold temperatures now, it is too late in the season. Just try to manage it effectively until the weather warms, what is that maybe 6 or 8 weeks in your area? Try to find a bright, cool location and be very cautious about your watering. Junipers are best potted in a gritty, free draining mix and peat heavy mixes hold water too long so allow it to dry a bit in between waterings. Norm Here is a link that might be useful: Juniper Info....See MoreWhat do you want to see in Bonsai? (pseudorant)
Comments (5)It's called 'slab' forest planting, and why isn't it bonsai? The trees are natural looking, but try to imagine them each growing alone in a little pot. You might end up some of the time, at least, with something that looks like a 'Disney' tree, a bit like a cut-out stuck on to the background, rather than a real, dimensional tree, because without bonsai 'rules' (which, of course, are broken all the time, but only 'well' by people who know them and understand them) a lot of trees would not look good (or natural) at all. When you work with something so small, relative to the 'real' thing, all that foliage, etc. somehow takes on a different perspective. The horizon is not infinite, other trees within visual range do not always 'go' with the first one, placement at anything other than eye level immediately puts it 'in its place', etc. and in the end it may look more natural by following the rules than otherwise - kind of like what the architects of the Acropolis in Athens did... they actually leaned the pillars of the Parthenon inward (or outward... I forget!) by a few degrees, which when viewed against the skyline up on the hill, made it look absolutely straight, rather than otherwise, which tricks of distance and light would 'display'. Some trees do look good matching the real ones in the right setting, but not all do. I know what you mean about the nebari too ('sumo' trees), but while they're exaggerated (sometimes too much), it does make them look older, which is so much of the point in bonsai traditionally....See MoreBonsai, soil and water questions and fertilize.
Comments (3)The soil you mentioned is an excellent medium for bonsai - one I've been using with very good results for >25 yrs. It's also adjustable for water retention by keeping the bark fraction at 1/3 of the o/a volume (or less) and varying the ratio of screened Turface:grit. Determining appropriate fertilizing practices requires some consideration of your watering habits and soil choice. The gritty mix allows you to water to beyond the point of saturation every time you water w/o incurring any ill effects from the practice, so you should take advantage and flush the soil when you water. That practice allows you maximum flexibility in how you fertilize. I prefer to fertilize (fertigate) with a low dose of Dyna-Gro's Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 every time I water, which is every 4-6 days in the winter for almost ALL the plants I keep indoors. I water on a schedule because I can; the gritty mix allows that w/o problems, whereas other more water-retentive soils require you to water in sips rather than flushing the soil, an inherently problematic practice. You can also choose to fertilize at 1, 2, or 3 week intervals if you find that easier. I use the 9-3-6 fertilizer because, on average, plants use about 6X as much N as P, and about 3/5 as much K as N. After the calculations are completed for how P and K are reported on fertilizer packaging, fertilizers with 3:1:2 ratios (24-8-16, 12-4-8, and 9-3-6 are all 3:1:2 ratios. Notice I write ratios using a colon (:) and actual NPK % using a dash (-) to differentiate between ratios and actual %s. I'm guessing that the fertilizer you are using is made by Dyna-Gro and sold packaged by them as 'Orchid-Pro'. Eve's Garden likely repackages it or orders with a proprietary label and markets it as a bonsai fertilizer. Based on how the average plant uses nutrients, a 7-8-6 fertilizer furnishes about 2.2X the amount of P your plant can use in relation to N. Thios isn't so far out of line that it's going to create problems you're likely to recognize, but I think the 9-3-3 product would be a better choice. Remember, almost all hobby growers apply fertilizers as a function of N requirements (because plants require more N than any other nutrient), and how much N a plant actually gets has nothing to do with the NPK %s written on the label; it's the grower's hand that determines how much N the plant gets. Because of that fact, it just makes sense that we would see to it that the amount of other nutrients, individually, are complimentary to the amount of N supplied. An excess can be as limiting as a deficiency when it comes to nutrients, which is why consideration to your fertilizer's NPK ratio is important. Al...See MorePropagate Truncheons, Large Branch / Stems, Trunk Cuttings for Bonsai
Comments (6)For air layer one removes the bark to interrupt the flow from the top to the bottom of the plant while the bottom still supplies the top with water and nutrients. It is a different thing all together. I do not see any reason to do that for a cutting unless I am missing something. In both cases the cuts have to be very clean. The cambium layer needs to be cut very clean with a very sharp instrument. The new roots will form pretty close to the cut cambium after it has calloused. Ficus are easier. You can literally stick them in a pot with soil mix without any hormones. Hormones are a tricky thing also. Some like it strong and some like it diluted. Some do not like it at all and actually inhibits/slows down root formation. For tropicals I tend not to use hormones. Others I experiment to some extent but I have not really nailed down a good formula. Bit of an hit and miss situation here. One thing that has made it easier is the DynaGro KLN rooting solution. I dip my harder to root cuttings in the solution for a few days before putting them in soil. I think it has increased the success rate. Cannot swear by it yet though....See More- 11 years ago
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