You'll find the answers to all these questions well-covered in the FAQs over on the Growing from Seed forum here. There are also lots of discussions with pictures of the various set-ups used, which ones to avoid using, the problems with using peat pots, the problems with using peat pellets, and the problems covers can cause when used incorrectly, damp-off, transplanting to larger containers once germinated, how to use soil heating pads and various types of growing lights needed, etc. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed forum

The info that came with my heating mat said not to put it on metal surfaces because of heat loss below, It said the best surface is styrofoam, cardboard or wood. I use a cardboard box lid flap to put mine on and it has worked well for 4 years now. I suggest you take a cardboard box and cut it up to fit your shelves where you are going to put the mat. Put your plants that are in pots in a plastic tray and onto the mat and you are in business

There's a lot of good information in the healthyheating post, but unfortunately, some misleading/inaccurate info as well. The good - building a really efficient house is definitely the way to go. The better insulated and air sealed, the more stable the temperatures, and the less it will matter what type of heating system you use. As the poster noted: "Its not just about the flooring its about the system the building (affects heating load what you pay the utilities) the flooring affects resistance) the tube spacing (affects fluid temperature affects efficiency) .theyre all joined at the hip" I'm not sure what the comments about VOCs have to do with heating systems. I might be missing the author's point, but the implication I get from reading the posting is that somehow radiant heating helps reduce the VOCs in your home. I know that's not the poster's point, but the way it's mixed in with talk about radiant, it's quite misleading. To clarify, VOC levels are a function of materials used in the house and the fresh air ventilation rates. As for radiant heating efficiency. There is a lot of controversy surrounding the efficiency of radiant systems. The industry claim is that you can set your thermostats lower because the heat radiates up from the floor, resulting in greater psychological and physiological warmth. In actual practice, the studies have had conflicting results. While it is true that in a low-temperature radiant installation, you can operate water heating equipment at more efficient temperatures, it's not true that it's a slam-dunk savings in all situations. This is particularly true in basement radiant slab installations where a fraction of your heat is going downward to heat the earth or out the edge of the slab. This can easily result in a 10-30% efficiency penalty, or more depending on the installation. The comments about the emissivity of the floor material is a red herring. While the follow-up comment about the R-value of the floor material is valid. What matters is the ability of the system to transfer heat into the living space. Tubes in concrete, exposed, is most capable. Tubes hanging in the joist bay, under the wood floor under a carpet is a worst case scenario. It is simply not true that the floor material does not make a difference! Consider this - if you have a concrete floor and a carpet, both at 70F, which one will "feel" colder when you stand on it in bare feet? The feeling of "cold" that your feet pick up is due to the heat being more effectively transferred from your feet to the concrete floor than to the carpet. The thermal conductivity of the concrete is much higher than the carpet. The floor material makes a profound difference to the actual functioning of a radiant floor heating system. Also be aware of the flywheel effect. Large, heavy masses take a while to speed up and slow down. The same with thermal masses, like concrete slabs. They have a capacity of holding lots of energy. Because of this, they take a lot of energy to bring up to temperature. With a forced air heating system or conventional baseboard heaters, you can set the temperature back at night or when you leave for the day, saving considerable energy. With a high mass radiant system, it takes a lot more heating energy to get the slab up to temperature, so it is slower to respond. This applies to the time it takes to cool down also. Quoting from the EERE website: "Thick concrete slab systems have high heat capacity and are ideal for storing heat from solar energy systems, which have a fluctuating heat output. The downside of the thick slabs is their slow thermal response time, which makes strategies such as night or daytime setbacks difficult if not impossible. Most experts recommend maintaining a constant temperature in homes with these heating systems." This is particularly problematic in the spring and fall, when it may be in the 40's at night but sunny and in the 60's during the day. Ask people with radiant systems about their comfort in these situations and you'll find a fair number who are dissatisfied with the comfort. This is a good reason to keep a forced air system for heating as well as the radiant. Use the forced air for primary heating during mild weather and radiant when it's colder. The healthyheating describes this on their website under "myths". Unfortunately, the way it's discussed is highly misleading. Radiant heating systems do NOT act like heat lamps. Heat lamps operate at very high temperatures and have essentially zero heatup time. Heat lamps do work by radiant heating. In floor systems do not. They operate at very low temperatures and can take considerable time to warm up and cool down. Depending on the design, this can be many hours. Quoting from the EERE website: "Despite their name, radiant floor heating systems also depend heavily on convection, the natural circulation of heat within a room, caused by heat rising from the floor. Radiant floor heating systems are significantly different than the radiant panels used in walls and ceilings." I don't want to seem negative on in-floor heating systems. I like them and use them in my own tiled bathroom floors. But you need to know that it is not "child's play", even for a competent installer, due to complicating factors.

Bklyn, it looks like you are using the same lights as I. Nice. Are those L.E.D light bulbs? Socal very nice. I love that reflection. It looks very bright in there. NO wasted light for sure. Kvetch, you are not kidding there. I can't believe how LONG we have had this cold, snow, and below average temps, and it's not even winter yet. I keep looking at the ten day forecasters outlook and now I see 30's . no 40's. I think I am going to be sick. The ones on the porch I have to water often if I use a fan. If I don't use a fan, it can take a few weeks before they need watering, but they only stay moist thank God. The one in my all season porch, I have to water those every few days because it's much warmer in there, much more sunlight, and I also use fans. LOl. I hear you about window hogging..lol Right now my tree and orchids are competing for the best spot. Jenny, very nice. One of these days I am going to get an Australian lime. Does it produce lots of flowers that smell nice? I would go after the fragrance more than anything.. Laura, didn't it seem like yesterday when we were growing them all outside? Boy do I miss the days when all you had to do was use a hose..((( Yes, all the twist and turns one has to take to get around each tree can be such a pain. Very nice looking too.I hear you got a couple of scale? That's easy to get rid of once and for good. Let me know if you need a suggestion.)