To answer some questions... The under side of the leaves seem fine. No one is hiding under there. And the box with tomatoes has two plants, and the other box has to cucumbers and two peppers. I am not sure what has been eating the leaves but I think the new leaf damage may have been caused by the spray I used. The leaves felt like they still had residue on them so I gave the plants a rinse. Hopefully that prevents further damage from the spray. Was told to get ladybugs to prevent other bugs? Think that will help? Whats the best way to prevent critters from snacking on my plants? Cant figure out how to post more than one photo at a time. The picture attached is of one of the cucumber leaves which curled up at the ends.

Ya, I agree. That's why I would have liked to see some pictures. But in case the original poster couldn't post them, I wanted to post some links to descriptions and pics so they could see if that seems like what they are experiencing. Also as you mentioned regardless, that doesn't mean there is only one issue they are dealing with or not. But I'm guessing that at the time of the original post when noticing the irregular light blotches, as well as the grayish spots, simply noticing if they were a fuzzy or dusty substance was as you mentioned, just an oversight or missing information. And the light blotches wouldn't necessarily need to be fuzzy or dusty for the downy mildew on the tops of the leaves (where I think they were noticed), so assuming they are on the tops of the leaves, and the fungus is on the bottom of the leaves, it sure seems to fit the situation. Even though the fungus needs to be growing to propagate the spores, the spores will only need air current to travel, and the spores are seeds that will survive winters. Once they make it into a greenhouse, it's not winter for the spores anymore, and will germinate anytime conditions are favorable. The downy mildew even prefers "cool" moist conditions, and can also cause the leaf curl (that's being experienced). But the reason that I don't really focus on the statement about the brown roots is mainly because there are brown roots, and then there are brown roots. Everyone's idea of what's brown is, is different. Basically there are many shades of brown, and the original posters statement was "the roots are getting a brownish tint." To me that suggests that they seem to be going form a solid and/or bright white that they are used to seeing, to a slight off-color (brownish). And as I mentioned, older roots tend get a brown tint anyway. The poster never said how old the plants were that I remember, and I assume they are not exactly young plants. Also some nutrients will naturally give the roots a brownish tint as well, even if so. So without any more information or pictures to go on, I simply don't see the statement of the roots getting a brownish tint as a problem or issue at this point. But that's not to say it isn't the first visible sign of a problem, or even to say that there isn't another issue going on as well.

Hi ladies! Y'all know that it is very distressing for me to hear that your tomto plants are misbehaving. How dare they give you trouble so early in the season. Ilene, are the whitish areas on the leaves only along the edges or scattered all over the leaves? And, with the yellowing on the leaves, is it ONLY yellowing or do you see any concentric circles in black or brown shades? G.M., I think I already responded to your questions on the other thread. Yellowing leaves are one of the most common tomato problems you will see mentioned on gardening websites. There is a reason for this. Yellow leaves are just the way that tomato plants tell you they are feeling stressed. You know how we wake up with a headache or stiff muscles or whatever? Well, tomato plants wake up and have yellow leaves. Our aches and pains are a reflection of what we have been doing to/with our bodies and their yellow leaves are a reflection of what they are going through too. The tomato plants' stress could be from one of many possible causes. Here's just a few: --too much water, esp. when plants' growth seems stalled --soil is too cool, esp. when plants' growth seems stalled --air temps are too cool, esp. when plants' growth seems stalled --any combination of the first three items listed --too much fertilizer, too often --too hot or too dry, when accompanied by leaves wilting --too much shade and not enough direct sunlight OR --too much sun "all of a sudden" after a string of cloudy days --plants have been moved from a shadier or more sheltered position, like from inside the house or on the porch, to a more exposed, sunnier position without being hardened off again Then, getting into more serious possibilities: --spider mite damage, if weather is 90 degrees or hotter and you see tiny webbing on the leaves accompanied by little red 'dots' on backs of leaves (the dots are the spider mites) --foliage disease, esp. when accompanied by brown or black concentric circles or spotting on the leaves. Could be early blight, for example, or bacterial speck. (I think it is too early for early blight and I don't usually see bacterial speck until late May either.) --systemic diseases, but there will usually be other symptoms as well, such as leaf curling and distortion or sudden wilting of plant --transplant shock if yellowing develops first week or two after plants are put into the ground --nematode damage to roots if you are gardening in EXTREMELY sandy soil Honestly, though, as I was running through the list of most likely possibilities and typing them, I was thinking to myself that most tomato plants will show some yellowing on the leaves early in the season, and it is usually just because the weather is a little cool, it is a little windy, and the soil tends to be a little wetter than they like it. I think tomatoes are happiest with the kind of weather we have from May through about the end of June, weather a little warmer than we're having now, a little less wind and a lot more heat/warmth. If the leaf yellowing is on lower leaves and does not progress up the plant, that is just early season 'less than ideal condition' type stress. If the leaf yellowing begin to move upward leaf by leaf and stem by stem, my 'early blight' alarm bells start ringing. If the yellow leaves are a symptom of too much fertilizer, your should be having bright green vigorous topgrowth while the bottom leaves are yellowing. The white leaf margins are probably just the tiniest bit of sunburn or windburn on the leaves. If new leaves have those edgesalmost as soon as they open up, though, then I would be a little more concerned. If the leaf edges have the tiniest of little brown margins and it is present all along as you are raising the seedlings (and generally is present before they are ever exposed to outdoor conditions), that is a common problem nicknamed CRUD by people on the tomato forum. It tends to go away as the plants grow and it does not seem to indicate a systemic problem, although some experts believe it may be a very mild and aberrrant type of early blight. And, girls, just for fun I am giving you the tomato problem solver link to my favorite website. (NOT because I want you to go there instead of asking me questions, but just thought you might like to see it!) I find answers here at this website when all else fails. I like to be able to look at the pictures and compare the problem I am seeing to what they show. It is an amazing website. Having grown up in Texas, so very, very much of what I learned about gardening was through Texas A&M University and the agriculture extension service they administer, so I am in my own 'comfort zone' when I use their website. Having early tomatoes is important to me (I am so impatient!), so I try to have ripe fruit by late April/early May. Some years it works and some years it doesn't. The two plants with almost-ripe tomatoes are Better Bush. I buy two plants every year as soon as Home Depot or Lowe's get them in, which tends to be around Valentine's Day in the D-FW metro area, which is where I buy them. They are usually in 5" or 6" round pots and cost $2.95 or $3.95 each. When I get them, the plant's main stems are usually about the size of your little finger and the plants are about 8" to 10" tall. I put them in 3-gallon pots as soon as I buy them, feed them some liquid seaweed and set them on the floor right beside my seed-starting shelf. On warm days I carry them outside into the sun for a few hours. On cold nights I bring them inside. They usually bloom sometime in early-to-mid-March. I usually get the first tomatoes off these plants in mid-April. They are actually a little late this year and I think it is because of all the cold weather. Judging from the size of the plants when I purchase them, they must have been started from seeds in late November or cuttings in mid- to late-December. I buy the earliest plants available for early tomatoes because I am too busy with the holiday season to start seed that early myself, and I know I will really, really be craving a home-grown tomato in February or March. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: TAMU Tomato Problem Solver

Thanks everyone for the comments, I appreciate them all. New B Gardener: I doubt it is Nitrogen burn as all the plants received about the same amount. I only did a second application when the leaves began to brown in an effort to promote new foliar growth to counteract the damage. Thanks for the comment. Jane N.Cal: The problem began maybe four to six weeks ago. I think the dark stem you are seeing is the stake. Since my cage does a good job of supporting the plant I just use one of those wimpy green plastic coated stakes and I think that is what you are seeing behind the main stem, which is browning. Thanks! Coconut Head: I think you are right on about it being root damage, however I doubt I have a critter since I have hardware cloth on the bottom of all my raised beds. My local nursery thought it was from overwatering, but that doesn't make any sense to me since all five plants are on the same drip line and are having no issues. DigDirt: Thank you very much for the detailed response and the link to the great site. I have only kept the plant in the bed because none of the plants around it are showing even the slightest sign of damage and I had a few volunteers in another bed, so its replacement is ready to go. Since I never have had this problem before I wanted to see what would happen so I can learn as much about it as possible. What additional information would you need to be able to give me a better idea of what you think the issue is? Also, what kind of photos would you need? My wife took several photos with her iPad, but the quality isn't very good so I can take more this weekend. I'd also be interested to hear what additives you give your tomatoes. Last night I top-dressed all my other tomato plants with bone meal, but typically blood and bone meal, coupled with high quality organic compost, is all I give them. Thanks again everyone!!!