Wow. Just...wow. See - when most people say "my yard is infested!" and then we see a picture - there's usually a respectable amount of grass, and some obvious weeds that just need to be pulled or sprayed. You, my friend, were being modest when you said "heavily weed and bermuda infested yard"! I'm going to take the liberty of extending sincere condolences to you from every member of this forum. :-) But before you get too depressed - I'm sure others on this board have seen worse (well, I haven't, but I'm sure others have - right? [insert chorus of agreement here]) To answer a few of your questions: Rolling seed - Once you spread your seed around (use a broadcast / rotary spreader - don't do it by hand, it won't be even [voice of experience speaking!]), a roller is just what it sounds like - think mini-ashpalt roller you push by hand that you first fill (probably no more than 1/2 way) with water. This ensures good seed-to-soil contact, prevents run-off when watering, and is theoretically more important than covering the seed with any sort of topsoil / mulch (the reasoning being that when nature drops seeds, they don't wait for a nice fluffy layer of 1/8" peatmoss or hay to sprout). I rented one for $20 a day from the local rental center. Weed-b-gon is a selective herbicide. The main active ingredient (2,4-D) kills just about everything EXCEPT the grass. Round-up (RU)is a non-selective herbicide. The main active ingredient, glysophate, kills pretty much everything. The exception, of course - is dormant bermuda (could be dormant anything, but in your case, we're just talking bermuda). While dormant, the bermuda isn't sucking up any water or nutrients from the surrounding soil or off its leaves. Thus, it doesn't suck up the RU either. Which, as you've probably already figured out, is why spraying the BG NOW will do nothing to kill it. Having now seen the pictures, I agree with you - you don't need WBG, as there's no grass you're trying to save. Before I go further, I wanted to address your one comment of "why weed-b-gone vs a strong batch of roundup". I may be reading too much into that - but please please please don't over apply any chemicals to your lawn. The mixing instructions (if using a concentrate) are EXTREMELY accurate - please don't play backyard chemist and double the dosage - you'd just waste the chemicals, and introduce more into your yard then is necessary. Plus - a stronger dose may actually keep the plant alive. A higher concentration may work too quickly - you may kill the top 3 inches of a weed within a day, but b/c the section shriveled and dried up so quickly, the RU was never transported to the roots of the plant, so it's free to keep growing and invading your yard. This is why labels say "repeat applications may be necessary" - the first will significantly weaken the plant - the 2nd and 3rd doses, 1-2 weeks apart - will kill it. For what you have, I'm pretty sure one application of normal strength RU is all that's needed. Unless you're going after poison ivy or similar weeds, you won't need the "extra-strength" version. For compost, IIRC, the amounts suggested by dchall should provide a 1/4" layer across the whole lawn. Fling it around, brush it in with a push broom (or landscape rake, as you're not going to be concerned about smothering anything), lightly water, and let the microbes do their magic. I suggested aerating b/c that would allow the compost and seeds to penetrate deeper into the soil. Many forum members have also had good success with renting a slit-seeder, but that may be overkill for a yard your size (a slit-seeder deposits the seeds in a mini-trench it scrapes into the ground, providing that seed-to-soil contact I mentioned before). As far as pH, I believe compost helps return it to neutral, regardless of whether your soil is acidic or alkaline, but I'm out of my comfort zone here, so I'm willing to be corrected. So here's my revised suggestion: 1. RU the yard now - this will kill whatever's growing. The other benefit of RU is that it goes "inert" pretty quick - you can overseed within a few days - WBG forces you to wait at least a week or more. 2. Take a de-thatching rake, and go to town on the dormant bermuda - no - it won't kill it, but it will thin it out significantly. This will also scratch up and loosen the top layer of soil, not as good as aerating, but it could be good enough for now if you want to save the heavy machinery for the fall. 3. Spread compost (side note - sometimes, a predominance of a single type of weed also signifies a particular pH level - so adjusting pH may help with future weed issues) 4. Seed with Perr. Rye (PR) 5. Keep mowing high throughout the summer - the PR won't "crowd out" the BG, but should co-exist for the first few months or so. If you fertilize, do it before the BG starts growing - this will help the PR, but not the BG. 6. In June/July, start using Bayer BG Control, or wait until late Sept / Oct to RU the whole yard again, then proceed with a full-scale reseed in the fall. Related to the last point - Tiemco was suggesting a complete reseed come fall, as it's easier to start from "scratch" than to have any existing lawn compete with the seeds for water and nutrients, plus having extra-long grass (having been watered 3x a day) that you can't mow b/c the seedlings aren't high enough yet. Thanks for the afternoon diversion - I better shut up and start looking productive.

Hi hanzrobo, I have an east facing and a huge south facing window. I was a little concerned that if they slow down in the heat of summer, seedlings may have a tough time right now. We are already 100+ and the room they will be in is warm! It's an add on to the house, but no cooling attached. I'm thinking of ordering seeds from Mesa Garden , unless someone has a better suggestion. :-)

Hi buck - there is a great FAQ here on the Tomato forum with pictures on transplanting and info on feeding seedings. You can access it by clicking on the FAQ button at the top of the forum front page. There is also a great thread from last week with all kinds of tips on growing tomato seedlings here. And on the Growing from Seed Forum you'll find many FAQ's on avoiding damp-off, how to transplant, soils to use, hardening off plants, etc. And don't forget all the great FAQ's too on the Winter Sowing forum that cover fertilizing seedlings, etc. Hope all this info helps. ;) Good luck with your seedlings. Dave

Rather than telling them, I would have marked where they were to put the panel, as well as putting everything in writing. You told them it was a closet, so they wouldn't have thought you then wanted to add a further enclosure. They should have realized about the ceiling. However, it looks like they can drop the whole thing--or just the top box--to clear the ceiling. Place in the insulation--foam board or rock wool only, no vapour barrier needed. You want the panels mounted on something solid, not drywall.