tulip tree-how to develop a strong trunk?

13 years ago

Our tulip tree is growing by leaps and bounds, as expected. I'm a little concerned because the main trunk is hardly thicker than some of the branches. On the advice of a family member, I've been pinching back the growth on all but the main leader/trunk to send energy to the leader, but it doesn't appear to be affecting the growth of the branch tips at all. They just keep starting new leaves and growth.

I don't want to keep the tree small--I knew what I was getting into with a tulip tree! But I do want to do whatever I can to grow a strong main trunk. The tree is now about 6 feet tall. Any advice? Would it be safe to cut back the main trunk? Would that help it toughen/thicken up?

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Comments (8)

brandon7 TN_zone7
13 years ago
"I've been pinching back the growth on all but the main leader/trunk to send energy to the leader".

That's exactly what you DON'T want to do. You are encouraging growth in the main leader which will only intensify the problem. Any chance you could post a pic?
taxo_man
13 years ago
When the tree is small the limbs are sometimes around the same thickness as the trunk. As years go on it will put on weight in the trunk area (a lot).
I wouldn't do any pruning or cutting of leader at all. I would just water it often and let it go.. The tree will have a stronger trunk as it gets bigger, and it will get bigger rather quickly. : )

J
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This is an issue I have thought about for many, many years. Here is how I analyze it. First, almost no tree is guaranteed not to be blown over or broken off by some really terrible wind. Some trees are practically immune if they are healthy and in the right kind of soil--deep and well drained. Among these are baldcypress. Next, if the area is a high hazard area--meaning that if a tree should blow down the damage would be catastrophic--then maybe that is not the place for any tree. Next, if a tree is weakened by some factor, then the risk is high and in areas where people can be injured, any weakened tree should be removed without any hesitation. Sometimes trees show evidence of weakness--maybe they are hollow, or there is a narrow fork, or there is some evidence of dieback in the crown, or there are fungal fruiting bodies coming up in the soil near the tree or out of the base of the tree. Any of these factors should be considered more than ample reason to remove a tree where it can be a hazard of any kind. I include the kind of damage discussed recently in the topic about a tree struck by lightning. Unfortunately there are a few cases where a tree is weakened by something that has no easily visible sign. If there is a very large tree in an area where it could be a special hazard, maybe an arborist should be contacted--cores can be taken to determine the soundness of the tree and the arborist may be able to determine what kinds of hidden risks a tree of a particular species and age might pose. If the soil has a high water table or has some other special characteristic that can make trees subject to wind throw, this risk must be considered. In areas like this perhaps the use of really tall trees should be limited. If a tree is a valued tree and it has some dead wood in the crown, a tree service--that will not use climbing spikes--should be hired to clean out the dead wood. I have seen a lot of paranoia about trees and the hazards they pose. I recognize those hazards, but if one knows something about trees and can recognize problems, then there is no reason not to plant trees and/or keep trees, even if they are close to houses. But too often I have seen people either ignore hazardous conditions in trees or not be able to recognize them. I have knocked on doors several times to alert homeowners about hazardous trees. Mostly I have been well received. I have even contacted the city authorities when I see a weakened tree--in these cases I have generally been ignored. Most of the trees I warned the city about did come crashing down and cars and houses were hit. I never called back the city tree people to say, "I told you so." But we need to educate people who have too much fear of trees. Life is not without risk. An airplane can fall from the sky any time, and your risk of that happening to you is probably considerably greater than winning a big lotto jackpot. And ones chance of being struck and killed by a HEALTHY tree if one stays indoors during really bad storms, is very, very small. --Spruce
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Let me clarify what I mean by removing the loose bark and debris with your fingers. I'm not saying to peel the bark off, but break off the loose dried out bark over the dead parts of the trunk. No peeling, as you could easily start to peel off live bark still attached to the dead bark. I prefer to push in on the dead bark until it breaks off, instead of pulling out on it, since that could lead to it peeling off instead of breaking off. If you leave dead bark over the area it will obstruct and slow the progress of the live wood from surrounding undamaged areas growing over the dead damaged parts. Not to mention all the potential for harboring disease and pests as well as a trap for water in the winter and causing more damage. There have been many studies that demonstrate cleaned out physical injuries to trees heal much faster than those that aren't cleaned out. Also, I'm only talking about the bark and any loose debris! Don't cut out or try to clean out the exposed heartwood(the solid dead looking inner trunk when you take off the dead bark)! Again, the rounded off, maybe even swollen looking areas surrounding the damage is live wood growing over the dead area and don't mess with that part nor peel any bark off of it!
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Right^. there are myriad, unknown causes for such minor aberrations, but if you're asking if there's something to be done, the answer is no. And especially in trees which have been transplanted-remember, that's not the typical case, even if it is what we tend to do-there are multiple opportunities along the way for such things to occur. Trees grow via a method that most folks never consider. Very basically, a new tree grows over the old one (under the bark, of course) each growing season. That's why trees have growth rings-you're actually seeing the new deposition of wood surrounding the older ones-and this means that such insignificant little sweeps and bends are slightly less noticeable each and every year that the tree grows. Truly not an important matter, these minor "imperfections". +oM
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The ones that were clearly coppiced are NOT beeches, and should be cut down. "Terrible crotch angles" with silver maples means "tree that will split in a storm when it gets too top heavy". Believe me, it happened to about 3 of mine. For example in the 3rd picture, the left two trees are almost certainly beeches, they have the smooth, flowing trunk buttresses. The one with two trunks on the right is not. Pics 1 & 2 are def. maples. It is otherwise hard to tell with these pics.
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bushhog936
13 years ago
The only side branches you need to trim back are those that are a bit over zealous, and those that start competing with the main leader. Also, don't remove any laterals entirely for now since they encourage caliper growth. And make sure its not staked or growing between excessive shade that will cause spindly growth as well.
krycek1984
13 years ago
Stop trimming it, stop touching it. Let it do its thing. They are very vigorous growers and generally need no help forming an excellent leader. Don't touch it anymore! LOL. And they will grow nearly as wide as tall in the beginning years.
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
13 years ago
your problem is the idea that ... on a tree that could live 100 years ... thinking you will see change in one summer ...

yes .. you will see new growth ....

but you arent going to see the other stuff.. like trunk thickening.. root growth .... etc ...

i agree.. leave it alone... no fert.. no pinching.. no TLC... you are harming it with TOO MUCH LOVE ... IMHO .... just insure it is properly watered in drought ....

only a picture will change my mind.... and that might get you info that is actually helpful.. rather than pure speculation .... though i tend to think i dont agree with your peeps.. i do have to take into account.. they have actually seen the tree .... perhaps they have more info than us ...

ken
flora_uk
13 years ago
ken - my local favourite tulip tree was planted in around 1780. It's a wonderful tree. 100 years is still youthful!
Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
13 years ago
On the advice of a family member, I've been pinching back the growth on all but the main leader/trunk to send energy to the leader,

Hopefully you have your grains of salt ready for the next time advice is given.

One thing I don't see mentioned is to let the trunk sway in the wind (not to the ground, of course). Tight staking will inhibit caliper growth.

Dan
aquilachrysaetos
13 years ago
I planted two London planes last year and intended to stake them both. The only reason I was going to stake them was to stabilize the rootball until I saw a fair amount of growth. When I saw limbs grow two feet in a month I assumed the roots were doing the same underground.

I only got around to staking one, but I staked it very loosely so it would sway in the wind. I'd heard the same as Dan about the swaying beefing up the trunk. Turned out it was good I staked the one because the gophers decided to do a major excavation around it. Did not really hurt it, just slowed it a bit.

The unstaked one shot up like a rocket. It flops around significantly in the wind, but planes are very bendy anyway. I like to think all that bending is making it stronger.

tulip tree-how to develop a strong trunk?

Comments (8)

brandon7 TN_zone7

taxo_man

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