The two pictures appear to show several unrelated things.

The spots with tan centers and dark rims are probably either spot anthracnose or cercospora spot, not necessarily a big problem. Bayer will control cercospora but not anthracnose. The triangular dead patch is probably caused by damage to the central leaf vein by something or other.

The shrivelled cane is likely damaged at the base, maybe broken, hollowed out, chewed, or severely cankered.

I agree with Michael. That one cane is crossing the rose, and if you take it off, you will probably see that it is unattached.

Actually I don't think the rest of the rose looks that bad. I don't worry about little spots like that unless you know for a fact that larger ones or defoliation is coming.

Sammy

Thanks very much :) I'm trying to train the roses on a wire trellis and perhaps I wrestled with that right cane a bit too much when tying it off.

I'll hold off on spraying... thanks again! :)

Kristine

In zone 5, I would suspect that the withering cane originates from a cold damaged area of the plant and will need to be pruned off entirely. JC isn't really reliably winter hardy north of about zone 6b when it comes to actually having live and undamaged canes at the end of winter. If the bud union is planted deep enough, usually enough live tissue will remain that it can be grown successfully as a shrub. But, never a climber.

Hmmmm thanks Hollysprings, I didn't realize that. And I was all set to have these roses take over the fence!

Is there anything I can do to protect it so I can grow it as a climber? Or are these destined to remain shrubs?

Climbers are a big problem in zone 5a. Most of mine are shorties. I have a very handsome arbor I made myself from old wood. Once an old rose grower visited my garden, looked at the arbor and said why don't you have climbers in it?

I had JC when I lived in S. CA and it was a favorite. Never tried to grow it here.

Why don't you try Baltimore Belle, it's a huge Rambler that's hardy. Fragrant and blooms a long time. Unfortunately blooms only once.

I can't really recommend a hardy, repeat blooming climber, as I havn't found one, well maybe Kordes Antique 89. What about one of the Canadian Explorer roses?

I'm in zone 5 and most of my climbers are in the lower garden where they get a lot of very cold winter wind. The ones that have been most hardy for me are New Dawn, Ramblin' Red, John Davis, William Baffin, Dortmund and Morgengruss. I really love Kordes Antique 89, but find I have to cut it way back each spring. The good news is that it rapidly puts on height again. I also love growing America. Again, I have to cut it way back, but it not only grows quickly, but blooms very heavily as it grows (Antique wants to put on height first and then bloom later). I grow Polka in a more sheltered spot, but it still needs to be cut back quite a bit in the spring. New Dawn and Ramblin Red are probably the heaviest bloomers, and Ramblin' Red has the heaviest repeat bloom. My William Baffin is completely cane hardy and has a gorgeous heavy spring bloom, but only scattered blooms after that. Constance Spry (a David Austin) has also been cane hardy for me, with an amazing spring bloom, but it is a once-bloomer. Eden Climber grows more like a shrub for me, but the flowers are really lovely. John Davis is very cane hardy for me and will rebloom during the summer. Westerland and Autumn Sunset usually have to be pruned back quite a bit each spring, but are quick growers. They never go up and over the arches though like Ramblin' Red, New Dawn, William Baffin or John Davis. I grow several other David Austins as climbers also, but they do need to be cut back a fair amount in the spring (St. Swithun, Abraham Darby, William Morris, and James Galway.) I just planted the Austins Crown Princess Margareta, Teasing Georgia and Spirit of Freedom on pillars, but haven't had a chance to test their winter hardiness yet. Hope this helps.

Thank you very much... that information is most helpful! Looks like I'll be moving roses this fall, and buying some that will cover that fence ;)

Kristine

I have a picture of this on my website if you wish to view actual, confirmed spot anthracnose. Click on problem photos.

Here is a link that might be useful: LearnToGarden Web Site