Walt, Loved your response. LOL!! I have a gum tree I planted in my front lawn 15 years ago. Until the year before last, it behaved itself and didn't produce those dastardly gumballs. I'll let it grow this summer yet...then the chain saw gets the sucker while it's still manageable for me to drop. They're pretty trees, and the fall foliage is spectacular, but enough is enough of those damn spiked balls! To the original poster: When you get to the point of having literally bushels of these damn things to litter your lawn, garden, or street (or all three), you'll wish you had never heard of this tree. On a mature one, the root system is vast, surface disrupting too, and extremely expensive to remove if thoroughly done. Hal

The 'reel' problem with these mowers is cutting height. The normal 3" height is way out of range for a reel. When people were maintaining lawns like putting greens at 3/4" height, the reel was king. Reels scissor-cut the grass, which is great, but the grass just lies there unless you use a grass catcher. Those of us with a few years behind us can remember well the raking and sweeping that followed using the reel mower whether push or power. So, since you probably want to cut at 3" or higher and make the clippings go away by mulching, I'd say the reel is out. Plus, the gum balls will jam it every time. BTW, come to the 24th St. stage (on Atlantic) on May 26 and see me back up the Platter/Coasters/Drifters Memorial Day show. I'll be the one with the sax.

Nyssa sylvatica (Black Gum) is a hardwood tree and is best chosen in early fall, when one can choose the best color change potential out of the available Black Gums for purchase. These trees mostly are grown from seed and vary greatly in their fall leaf color change potentials. Also, even if you want a large tree, do not purchase a bare root one. this tree does not tranplant very well if dug out of the ground not too long before it is to be sold and planted. It is best to select your tree from a range of 7 - 15 gallon sized, potted Black Gum trees. Just be certain to check the rootflare to make certain that non of those roots are circling the trunk. Before purchasing, you may need to push some of the potting soil away around the base of the trunk, inorder to see the root flair well enough to determine if the root flair is growing properly and not showing a tendency to circle the rootball or trunk of the tree. Also just prior to planting, make two crossing, through each other, slices at the bottom of the rootball; That is if you see a solid mass of tangled roots there. Then along the sides, if you see roots crowded and entangled along or circling throughout the side portions of the rootball, simply make 4 slices cut from the top to bottom along the sides of the rootball, keeping all 4 cuts evenly spaced around the rootball, but not in line with the bottom of the rootball slices.

Thank you for the reply, Toronodo. Dripline is probably about 7 ft. out from the trunk on all directions. The roots are just too high to put the tractor over. The poor thing has been through a lot -- two ice storms in the last year, plus I just don't really like the dang thing, BUT it's a pretty tree (still). It's straight up about 30 ft. I have access to lots and lots of leaves, wood mulch, etc. Seemed like a good idea at the time, to just cover up the roots with sprounts and save a lot of trimming time. I'm willing to let it "readjust" to the new situation- - I think we'll all be better for the experience. Hopefully. Thanks - Sunny