Safe to remove a large crabapple sucker?
I have a crabapple that is mature (I assume) and about 15 yrs old. I never removed a sucker from it that is now quite large. Frankly, I love the sucker because it appears to be a standard apple tree with large apple blossoms. The sucker is perhaps 6" diameter at the base. It grows nearly straight and is the tops peak of the tree by less than a foot. I've read that suckers weaken a tree, but I was wondering if removing such a large sucker could cause even more damage/stress? The sucker has been there for several years and the tree appears healthy otherwise, although it did produce less fruit last year (bloom was normal, approx 40% of the fruit dried up perhaps due to drought).
I just read where one person feels it's ok to leave a large sucker if it doesn't interfere with other branches - true? I love the look of the apple stock and I would love to leave it if it's not slowly killing my crabapple.
I am going to try and add a pic of the base of the tree. If it works, the sucker is the one front and right of the main trunk. If I should remove it I will need to saw it off, it is that thick. Thank you for any help!
Comments (9)
whaas_5a
11 years ago
Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Why do Crabapples sucker and how to stop it
Comments (12)calliope, not that I don't believe you, but would you be so kind as to direct me to one of those suckering guides for Malus understock? Of all data I have seen, collected, or heard, I've not heard of that characteristic. Such info would be valuable. As re: own root and suckering, I have heard this proposed from time to time, but in most cases, it's smoke and mirrors. In certain cases, such as Corylus avellena 'Contorta', growing on own root reducing the problem of suckering...not that it reducing suckering in any way, it's just that the suckers are similar to the parent and therefore not a problem. When dealing with things that are not shrubs, growing on own root is a classic example of taking a little bit of knowledge and leading the willing to believe what they want to. As regards why do crabs sucker, for lack of a better answer, it's because it's their nature. They are a plant in the rose family. Many of these sucker. Indeed, those that don't sucker are the exemption (certain Prunus species, although other Prunus species are the worst offenders in this regard). Most do. My experience has been that the best way to reduce suckering is to bother the root system as little as possible. With certain species, just driving a riding lawn mower is enough to accomplish this. Vigilance. A pair of pruners is a marvelous thing. There are certain sprays you can use to help reduce suckering. If you have to ask how to use them, call someone to do it for you....See MorePathetic crabapple tree
Comments (12)Just went out and took a closer look at it. First, most of the leaves are green and not healthy looking - but they are on the tree. They don't look spotted or have holes, etc., just dull gray-green. However, here and there among the green ones, I saw healthy-looking shiny purple leaves with purple stems. Many of the branches have what looks like dried moss on them. And, a few little hard purple fruits! As bad as this sounds, just having leaves on the tree is an improvement over previous years. Second, the suckers look healthiest of all - big purple leaves - much bigger than the leaves on the tree. They grow out of what appear to be tree roots that are barely under the surface. This tree is in area I have just begun to tackle. Removing old landscape cloth, putting down compost, watching what reemerges (like some beautiful staghorn sumac that was somehow surviving underneath ratty looking juniper.) It would be satisfying to feel I nursed this tree back to health but don't know if it would be an exercise in futility. Don't know if it ever was healthy. There are a variety of trees on this street but this is the only crabapple. Maybe that should be a clue that this isn't the place for them!...See Moreodd deformed leaves on 1 branch crabapple
Comments (6)Calliope, that is true,however I would expect to see more wilting, stunting, or dieback if that was the case. While there are diseases that may manifest itself that way (Black root rot is one), think of balled-and-burlapped trees surviving a loss of more than 85% of their root systems. As for cedar-quince rust, good luck. It can be absolute hell trying to keep it off hawthorns, serviceberries, pears in a bad year, fruiting and flowering quince (Cydonia and Chaenomeles), and apples. Sanitation is a huge part of the control. The spores are everywhere, so check your clothes, hair, etc. as well as cleaning tools properly. This fall/winter prune out all galls that may have formed and pick off all infected fruit (they will be dark and shrunken (a few may be swollen) at that time of year). In the spring, when buds start expanding, start treating with Daconil or Mancozeb to protect the new growth and retreat every two weeks, every week if rainy. Every third or fourth spray, use a systemic such as Infuse or Immunox. Repeat the process over. Any leaves that develop spots should be removed and galls pruned out. I would pick out infected fruit. Just a thought on this though, but it may help to wet down the leaves/fruit before messing with the plant as that seems to control the spread of the spores ( I wouldn't worry about infection as the plant will have been sprayed). When dry and if disturbed, the "horns" will release the lightweight spores and they will drift easily. I had heard about removing cedar trees within a certain distance from the infected plant, however that doesn't work with CQR since it can occur on a host plant year after year. Let me know what your Extension service recommends....See MoreCan I transplant volunteer crabapple tree?
Comments (12)Well, actually it probably will be fruitful - it's just a gamble as to whether or not it's something you'd want. Most of the clonal apple rootstocks were selected for size limitation or disease resistance - not for fruit quality; seedling apples (standard rootstock) will be quite variable in habit, size, and fruit size/quality/ripening period. I've seen some rootstock shoots from under ornamental crabs that produced some pretty good apples - looked like they could have been seedlings of Golden Delicious....See Morecoatfetish
11 years agocoatfetish
11 years agowhaas_5a
11 years agobrandon7 TN_zone7
11 years agocoatfetish
11 years agocoatfetish
11 years agobtw, here is a pic I took last week of the sucker mid way up the tree. It shows how straight and branchless it is. (hey, now that I look closely, I can see a small branch coming off it, directly towards us) It's the one just slightly off center, I think you can tell which one it is. Yes, there is a big gaping hole between the branches because I pruned it to accommodate my patio. There was one low branch that cut right into the seating area, and when I removed it years ago, it left that space.
I would have added this pic when I asked my initial question, but I can't figure out how to add more than one pic to a post!
coatfetishOriginal Author