Why do Crabapples sucker and how to stop it
Maryl (Okla. Zone 7a)
16 years ago
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cascadians
16 years agoMaryl (Okla. Zone 7a)
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Minimize root suckering for Dolgo crabapple?
Comments (1)jon, Most apple rootstocks, perhaps with the exception of 'standard'(seedling) types like Antonovka & Ranetka - which will give you a massive tree and prolonged period to bearing - will sucker. But, unlike the suckering plum rootstocks, all the suckers pop up right at the base of the tree - not 10, 20 ft or more away from the trunk. It's usually a minor task to pull out or cut off rootstock suckers on apples, but you have to do it almost every year. M7/EMLA7 work best for me, but others may be more appropriate for your soil type and climate. Here's an online PowerPoint presentation on performance of rootstocks in UT - discussing tree size, fruit production, and suckering: http://www.utahhort.org/talks/2007/Black_rootstock%20talk%20revised.pdf Personally, I'm of the opinion that you need to select rootstocks for your soil type and environmental conditions, rather than for their supposed effect on tree size. See the link below. Sometimes I'll get lazy and let 'em go for a couple of years, and then I'll cut or pull 'em out and either line 'em out in a nursery bed for use as rootstocks to graft new apples/crabs onto, or I'll cut them up and use them for smoking meats. Fruitwoods, particularly apple, work nicely for this purpose, but don't seem to add the 'zing' of hickory/pecan. Here is a link that might be useful: Dwarf Tree? But it's so BIG!...See MoreHow can I stop my trees from suckering?
Comments (2)Trees can sucker, or increase production of suckers, for a number of reasons. Some sucker profusely just because that's their growth habit, some may sucker due to root disturbance, and some may sucker because of disease, decline, or physical damage. Trees respond to removing suckers in various degrees. Some do tend to eventually somewhat give up if their suckers are continually removed and as the tree matures. I've seen reports that claim that pulling suckers off, when possible, works better than cutting them. I can't remember the exact mechanism, but pulling the suckers off does something to help to reduce regrowth. Removing the suckers earlier would make this much more practicable. There are also various types of chemicals available to stop suckering. I will include a link to an example below. Here is a link that might be useful: just one example of a sucker reducing chemical...See MoreWhy Do Water Suckers Lack Vigor?
Comments (4)Quote: "Then it does not explain the large variation in size and vigor experienced by different growers of musa basjoo?" You wrote a statement but put a question mark. I don't understand what you mean. Some musa, for example "bordelon", "rose", a few others do throw many suckers. At least in my soil and weather conditions. Until a sucker gets to a certain size, it is drawing nutrition from the mother plant. Even when fully grown, many pups all in a small area (one mat) all are in competition trying to draw water and nutrients from the same patch of soil. So they would indeed be less vigorous than a less-freely-suckering variety (unless you worked to remove excess suckers). And yes, profuse suckering will reduce the size and number of fruit produced as compared to keeping just a single fruiting "mother" plant with a half size "daughter" and a just emerging "grand daughter." But that is a whole different question. You did not ask how to get the highest fruit production out of a mat. It does take maintenance to keep production up, like almost any crop. Old, untended areas of bananas are often thick with plants but lacking any fruit. That isn't because they were water suckers. That is because any given area of land can hold only so many roots and those roots have to feed and hydrate more plants. It comes down to making the decision about your goals. Are you trying to fill a corner of your yard behind the swimming pool with tropical plants to achieve "the look" of being in some tropical lagoon? Let them pup! Got one getting too close to the deck? Cut the pup off and give it away or trade. OTOH are you trying to have a plant grow, bloom, and produce the maximum fruit in the least time? Limit pups to one daughter and one grand daughter. Since a sword sucker is competing for light beneath its mother (hence its fast upward growth with limited energy put into leaf growth), it will be ready to produce a larger bunch of fruit sooner. Thus if you were to choose which pup to let grow for next year's crop and which pup to cut out and toss into the composter, you leave the sword and cut out the water sucker. Basjoo are popular in northern states because they are pretty hardy and provide that tropical look. They don't produce edible fruit so trying to get one to fruit is more of an academic exercise than trying to get yummy for the tummy. Might as well let them clump!...See MoreCrabapple choice and why?
Comments (1)Gardenall, I never have had Transcendent, but have seen it offered from several Southern nurseries, so it's probably a good one. 'Callaway' crab is another good one, and a favorite in my family - good for fresh eating - you can fill your pockets and munch away on those tasty 1.5" crabapples - and for jelly. Was originally selected at Callaway Gardens in west GA, so should do well for you; good disease resistance, heavy producer. 'Centennial'(DolgoXWealthy) crab is a top performer for me here in hot zone 6 - but also worked well for my Dad, down on the z7-8 interface in east Alabama. Larger, sweeter fruit than Callaway - in the 2-2.5" size range. Its half-sib, "Kerr'(DolgoXHaralson) is also a nice one(flavor is more tart), but I never tried it down at Auburn, so can't swear that it'd work for you. 'Craven' Crab - is another one that should do well in The South; mine hasn't fruited yet, so I can't give first-hand testimonial. Only place I've seen it offered is from Lawson's Nursery at Ball Ground GA. In general, the large-fruited red-fleshed crabs, like Geneva, Giant Russian, Winter Red Flesh, etc., are gonna be crappy(and scab-ridden) in hot humid Southern conditions - only worth growing there if you're gonna be using them to provide some red color to jam, and in that instance, some of the red-fleshed ornamental crabs,might be much more reliable picks. 'Chestnut' and 'Wickson' crabs consistently win taste tests for fruit quality - but again, I don't know how they'll do in LA - I've not fruited them here in southern KY ....See Morewisconsitom
16 years agocalliope
16 years agowisconsitom
16 years agoheptacodium
16 years agocalliope
16 years agocalliope
16 years agowisconsitom
16 years agocalliope
16 years agoMaryl (Okla. Zone 7a)
16 years ago
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