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Soil, Compost & Mulch

building a compost pile with bottom access

14 years ago

I have guinea pigs that produce a metric buttload of poop every 2 weeks. I have been tossing this on a passive pile for the past 4 years but I'm thinking I'd like to have a neater pile that has bottom access to get to the composted stuff at the bottom of the pile. I am not going to turn a pile, the soiled litter accumulates way to fast to keep up with. I plan on adding kitchen scraps to the litter. How do you think I can manage this?

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Comments (3)

borderbarb
14 years ago
Depending on the amount of space you can devote to composting, you might consider a smaller version of the 'windrow' method used by horse owners to compost MASSIVE amounts of manure. [1 horse = 1000 guinea pigs' poop ?] Place each week's GP contribution in a pile .. the next week's goes next to it, and so on. You innoculate the first pile with some composting worms ... they slowly eat their way through the piles.
====
google key words "Composting Horse Manure in Dynamic
Windrows." to get pdf file
====
"Advantages
ÂÂ Minimal aeration of the windrow is necessary; therefore, labor and
equipment costs are reduced.
ÂÂ Supplemental nitrogen is not needed so there are no nitrogen costs.
ÂÂ Worm castings (worm feces) improve plant growth over windrow compost.
ÂÂ Under ideal conditions red worms double their population every four months.
Disadvantages
ÂÂ Initial cost of red worms (up to $12 per pound for bulk orders plus shipping) may be cost
prohibitive.
ÂÂ Monitoring and caring for red worm population year round.
ÂÂ Decomposition depends upon the number of red worms in the windrow.
pjames
14 years ago
You can find a "Soilsaver" compost bin at Sam's for about $40. It is essentially a 3 ft cube, black plastic box witha lid but no bottom. There is a sliding door at the bottom for removal of finshed compost from the bottom. I bought one for myself a few years ago and one for my Dad last year.

I do find it a little difficult to remove more than a couple shovel fulls of compost from the door at one time. That is because the compost tend to compact a little and holds it's form instead of 'flowing' as you shovel it out.
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Large piles can be fun but one has to be aware of the potential for anaerobic conditions developing especially in a hot pile. This bin has a twenty four foot circumference and holds about 7 cubic yards if filled to heaping. Fresh air entrainment to the centre is unlikely so either frequent turning, or some means to get air into the pile is almost a necessity. Once one gets into that kind of volumes it may be best to think of windrows. Lloyd
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Got Mold!!!! you are getting garden gold. It's already composting. If you can mix it & especially if you can mix fresh HM in it it will be great compost. Don't make making compost get overwhelming. As it is, it will become compost. You can speed up the process by mixing & fluffing to get air for the "bugs", bacteria, worms etc. so they can multiply quicker. Adding the HM will feed the microbes, worm etc. & make a richer compost. Fresh HM will help it heat up, specially if it has the urine (nitrogen source) mixed with it. Grass clipping will need mixed in but also help heat it up. Try to keep it DAMP, not wet. Mix it every 2 weeks or so, in 6 weeks it should be usable in a garden. More browns, like old leaves, straw, cardboard etc & you'd have the perfect mix but not necessary for it to break down. What you have already will be compost, faster if mixed add the HM if you can. Mother Nature will make it compost even if yo do nothing, fun to help her though. Mix & keep Damp, not wet is key.
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Comments (20)
I'm 6'1", 200 pounds and I'm not afraid of work. Turning the pile is work. I'd go with Lloyd's recommendation - use multiple piles. Just be sure to make the piles with some care. Be sure to get a reasonable mixture of greens and browns. If you haven't seen loid's web site, you need to go there. He experiments with composting techniques, mixtures, applications, everything. Turning the pile is not a necessity. If you don't turn the pile, it will take longer to finish, but it will finish. BTW, how healthy is your husband?
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Is there any chips I shouldn't put in lasagna or compost pile?
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Comments (5)
The only tree I can recall to be avoided is Walnut trees and leaves. The exact reason I do not remember, but I am sure you can do more research to find out why. As it relates to paper, there is no nutritional value at all to be found within it that I know of. Cardboard is supposed to possess nitrogen within the glue that can be of some benefit for the garden. I usually use cardboard as my bottom layer in lasagna beds for this reason and the fact that it is thicker than paper. If you can, ask your tree service people if they have access to ground up tree stumps. This material is excellent for a compost pile IMO. If they can give it to you, it should already be steaming when they deliver it. I would mix the ground tree stump with the material you have on hand to make great compost. Potato chips, popcorn, candy, and other junk food is not good for the garden or compost pile here in the south IMO. I have found it attracts fire ants like no other carbon source. It is better to stick with material that will offer both mineral and organic bulk to the soil, again IMO. As long as the material is of a small size one should produce a great lasagna bed or compost from such materialÂ Blutranes
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pkapeckopickldpepprz
14 years ago
I'll second the SoilSaver Bin. I started a thread on these as well as the Earth Machine bins last year. I have 2 Earth Machines and 3 Soil Savers. The Soil Savers are much better with better aeration and a larger bin overall. $40 well spent. I had to drive 30 miles to pay $57 for a subsidized Earth Machine 2 years ago. That was a PITA as it took all the time and money where this Soil Saver is a better design and it is as easy as driving to your local Sam's Club.

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