Already use Dr Goodearth! In fact I just sent out my 3 micronutrient tests out this evening! :) I love their easy to understand reports but they are more expensive than the other places (universities) I guess. I've tried their basic tests but I like a little more detail on the micro's too. So easy to use, can purchase the kits right online, collect your samples and dry them while you are waiting for the kit to come. BTW, I ordered the tests online on Friday and had them in hand today! Pack your samples in the convenient bags then into the boxes, and drop in the mail, postage already paid.

Yep, it's entirely possible you got a flawed reading last year, with the better (but not what I'd call stellar) soil that came with the sod. I reproduced last year's recommendations below with some modifications. If it isn't inconvenient for you, do this again. It won't hurt, but might not help--we won't know until 2017. I stepped up the amount of calcium considerably and cut the boron. We'll ride that for a year. Don't bother to top dress. Peat moss contains no nutrients, cow manure contains far too much nitrogen. :-) Just keep tossing the organics around, it's easier, cheaper, and will do the same job. I didn't include most things like cracked corn below as they can be dropped whenever you wish, even on the same day something else goes if you want! Recommendations for 2016: May 1: Apply any starter fertilizer at bag rate. Apply 1 pound of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. May 15: Apply Encap or Mag-I-Cal calcitic lime at 4 pounds per thousand square feet. June 1: Apply 1 pound Epsom salt per thousand square feet. Apply Milorganite at the bag rate. June 15: Apply 1 pound of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. July 1: Apply Milorganite at the bag rate. August 1: Apply 1 pound of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.. Apply Milorganite at the bag rate. September 1: Apply any starter fertilizer at half the bag rate. October 1: Apply 1 pound of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. October 15: Apply Encap or Mag-I-Cal calcitic lime at 3 pounds per thousand square feet. November 1: Apply 1 pound Epsom salt per thousand square feet. November 15: Apply 1 pound of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

The soil pH for citrus trees (Oranges) is in the 6.0 to 7.0 range, slightly acidic to neutral and at a soil pH of 6.9 yours is there, but the amount of organic matter in the soil is a bit low at 4.4 percent. Phosphorus (P) is quite high while Potassium (K) is about right as is Calcium and Magnesium. How well does the soil this tree is planted in drain? What does this soil smell like? What kind of life (earthworms, etc.) is in that soil? How well does the soil retain moisture? Perhaps these simple soil tests may help, 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. My experience is that Logan Labs does not offer much help beyond the basic soil test but you might take it to your local office of the University of California Cooperative Extension Service where they may be of more help. kimmq is kimmsr

And, honey, you will ruffle Andy's feathers exactly once. I never do it/did it, but I've seen it happen. Like I said, I could prioritize things, but those priorities will change depending on the soil. Quite frankly, I'm not going to do that. This eats up enough of my time already and, by the end of April, if I never see another soil test it will be far too soon. I'm also trying to get the soil into a groove where you get the maximum amount of time before needing to re-test and re-apply materials again, as well as the longest amount of time spent in the perfect groove where the grass (and your gardens if you ask me to) are completely content and growing optimally. As a hobbyist, I see absolutely no reason to stress a plant by making it fight for resources. This is why my flower gardens start in March and are covered in blossoms through October (sometimes even into November). If you weren't the same sort of person...you probably wouldn't be here. And those that are not that type of person are usually pretty up front about it. Folks can always ask for a "correct the worst of it" read from me if they want. @Hawksster: "lol my original response was: "@#$% that guy, add the boron and everything else suggested. He always comes in AFTER the fact & provides input" - but that just seemed rude." Been there, done that. I'd never treat a student that way, but there are times. I'd still give him a D for not including any specific amounts and not having any consideration for interacting elements. Fun fact: the best question I ever got in class was, "If the OK button isn't there, I shouldn't hit it, right?" I simply smiled, said, "Correct!" and moved on while reflecting on how incredibly Zen that question was.