Yep, it's entirely possible you got a flawed reading last year, with the better (but not what I'd call stellar) soil that came with the sod. I reproduced last year's recommendations below with some modifications. If it isn't inconvenient for you, do this again. It won't hurt, but might not help--we won't know until 2017. I stepped up the amount of calcium considerably and cut the boron. We'll ride that for a year. Don't bother to top dress. Peat moss contains no nutrients, cow manure contains far too much nitrogen. :-) Just keep tossing the organics around, it's easier, cheaper, and will do the same job. I didn't include most things like cracked corn below as they can be dropped whenever you wish, even on the same day something else goes if you want! Recommendations for 2016: May 1: Apply any starter fertilizer at bag rate. Apply 1 pound of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. May 15: Apply Encap or Mag-I-Cal calcitic lime at 4 pounds per thousand square feet. June 1: Apply 1 pound Epsom salt per thousand square feet. Apply Milorganite at the bag rate. June 15: Apply 1 pound of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. July 1: Apply Milorganite at the bag rate. August 1: Apply 1 pound of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.. Apply Milorganite at the bag rate. September 1: Apply any starter fertilizer at half the bag rate. October 1: Apply 1 pound of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. October 15: Apply Encap or Mag-I-Cal calcitic lime at 3 pounds per thousand square feet. November 1: Apply 1 pound Epsom salt per thousand square feet. November 15: Apply 1 pound of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

1) Technically, after the third mow...which will be a while. That'll be too late for most pre-emergents to catch spring weeds. You could use Tupersan (Siduron) in spring when the forsythia bloom, however. It won't impact the grass, but it only lasts about a month and doesn't have an extremely wide umbrella of what it stops from sprouting. 2) March or April 2016 is great if you want. Done much later, any adjustments will generally have to wait for fall (I really dislike stressing summer lawns). 3) It depends on your locale. That's not completely unreasonable, but I would continue to look around to see if I can find it cheaper. See 4 and 5 below. 4) I paid $14.25 per 50 pounds this year...in eastern Pennsylvania, which is soybean and corn country (as in there's acres of soybean and corn within spitting distance of my house). I also use a grain mill way out in the boondocks, so prices tend to be a little cheaper just because of that. 5) Not necessarily. While corn once a year is a help in terms of a gentle fungus protection (and to diversify the microbes a bit), sticking with Milo isn't a problem if it's cheaper for you. My heavy hitter is soybean meal due to the low cost locally--it beats Milo's price by a mile. If it were the other way around, I'd use Milo instead. Rough app levels are as follows (#/K = pounds per thousand square feet because I'm lazy): Alfalfa: 10-20#/K (the limiter here is the growth hormones, not the nitrogen...this is a weak nitrogen feed, but a good addition in early September to encourage root growth). Corn: 10-65#/K. The lower end helps with fungal protection, the upper end actually provides a feeding for the lawn, and there's no problem using corn at this level--except for the expense, of course. 65#/K delivers about 1 pound of nitrogen. Cottonseed Meal: 15#/K. It's difficult to get up north, but the southerner's equivalent to soybean meal. Milorganite: 20#/K. This is higher than bag rate, but will provide 1#/K of N. This is also rich in iron and contains both fast and slow nitrogen, making it a great pick-me-up for the lawn in addition to feeding it over the long term. Oats, Rice Hulls, Most Other Random Grainy Stuff: 50#/K. Most grains will be around 2% nitrogen (about 14% protein) and are applied at 50#/K to feed at 1#/K of N. They can certainly be applied at lower rates to help organically condition a soil if you wish. Soybean Meal: 15#/K. My personal staple. This provides 1#/K of N.

And, honey, you will ruffle Andy's feathers exactly once. I never do it/did it, but I've seen it happen. Like I said, I could prioritize things, but those priorities will change depending on the soil. Quite frankly, I'm not going to do that. This eats up enough of my time already and, by the end of April, if I never see another soil test it will be far too soon. I'm also trying to get the soil into a groove where you get the maximum amount of time before needing to re-test and re-apply materials again, as well as the longest amount of time spent in the perfect groove where the grass (and your gardens if you ask me to) are completely content and growing optimally. As a hobbyist, I see absolutely no reason to stress a plant by making it fight for resources. This is why my flower gardens start in March and are covered in blossoms through October (sometimes even into November). If you weren't the same sort of person...you probably wouldn't be here. And those that are not that type of person are usually pretty up front about it. Folks can always ask for a "correct the worst of it" read from me if they want. @Hawksster: "lol my original response was: "@#$% that guy, add the boron and everything else suggested. He always comes in AFTER the fact & provides input" - but that just seemed rude." Been there, done that. I'd never treat a student that way, but there are times. I'd still give him a D for not including any specific amounts and not having any consideration for interacting elements. Fun fact: the best question I ever got in class was, "If the OK button isn't there, I shouldn't hit it, right?" I simply smiled, said, "Correct!" and moved on while reflecting on how incredibly Zen that question was.

Using an interpretation that K should be at least 110 ppm, I find your shortage of K2O is about 2 lb/k. However it would be good to have a little extra, so I recommend 3 lb/k for the rest of the year. Your shortage of P2O5 is about 4 lb/k using a target of at least 50 ppm of P. Even though the TEC number is inaccurate if you have a calcareous soil, you likely have a soil that holds nutrients well. Since your pH is high (and will remain so), the phosphorus you add will soon bind with calcium, making the phosphorus unavailable to the grass. A way to get around that is to spoon feed it, a little at a time. That way at least some will generally be in the soil solution before it gets bound up. Milorganite has a fair amount of phosphorus, and being in organic form, it will hang around until organisms using it die and release the P to the soil solution. So that is a way to have a gradual source of P. If you're up for it, you could do ½ lb/k of each nutrient using a balanced fertilizer every two weeks. For 10-10-10, that would be 5 lb/k. Be sure to water it in. In July and August switch to a monthly application of Milorganite. Milorganite at bag rate should give you just over ½ lb/k of P. In early September go back to the balanced fertilizer and finish out with biweekly applications. Keep a tally on your calendar so you can count up how much P you’ve applied. If that is too complicated, you could make 3 applications of a balanced fertilizer at 1 lb/k of nutrient (for 10-10-10, it would be 10 lb/k) and two applications of Milorganite at bag rate. Do one of the balanced fertilizer now and the other two in September and October.