Logan Labs soil test
daedlus4
7 years ago
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7 years agodaedlus4
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Iowa Logan Labs Soil Test Analysis
Comments (20)Potassium has not been found to be toxic to turf grass at "excessive levels." That being said, recent studies have indicated that excessive K has shown some detrimental affect for stands of bentgrass and poa annua. Two grasses you are not likely to be growing in a home lawn. I have not personally experienced any detrimental affect of K on KBG. K can also increase soil particle dispersion increasing soil compaction issues. Application of any amendment in excessive amounts can affect turf's ability to take up other nutrients just because of the sheer volume of the applied amendment or plant stimulation or chemical interaction. In your case, you may see a bit of color change due to the increased demand for iron caused by the K and possibly a slight change in water penetration into the soil, but nothing to worry about. You still need to apply an additional amount equal to what you've applied, but follow morpheuspa's schedule for any future applications to avoid any over application at one time....See MoreLogan lab soil test result
Comments (22)Mercy? Seriously, Becky? BTW, this situation is pretty beyond anyone's level. @rcranf1 The only good news is that you have fairly decent iron levels. With a CEC of 2.5 (I saw the pics and you certainly have a beach sand soil) you have no soil storage to speak of for nutrients. No buffer, no space for reserves for a little insurance. Even if we could adjust all the nutrients perfectly, you'd be lucky to reach the bare minimum levels for a "not performing poorly" lawn and it would be back out of whack within a year if not a few months. We're talking minimums, not sufficiency levels. in ppm: Min S = 7, you : 7 in pounds per acre: Min P2O5 = 107, you: 73 (FYI sufficient is 112 to 232) Min Ca = 700, you: 719 (by the skin of your teeth) Min Mg = 100, you: 84 Min K = 80, you: 35 When you add to raise one (Ca, Mg, K, H, etc), you inevitably lower another. Although micros are seldom an issue for turf grasses as long as they are present in some amount, your Mn and B are so low that they may be deficient enough to create issues. There are so many conundrums here. Sand doesn't hold water, so you're going to need to water daily, watering is going to exacerbate nutrient leaching out of the soil. To increase CEC of the existing soil, you can add OM, but a thick layer of raw OM material on the surface is going to hold moisture and create a breeding ground (just like thatch) for disease and fescue is pretty susceptible to disease. You could till in OM, but that can be tricky. You could bring in a quality top soil, but that can be expensive and quality is a gamble. You could spoon feed the primary nutrients on a continuing basis, but that takes a lot of effort and the only way to perfect it is to take a saturated paste test prior to each application for maybe two years and that's effort and expense. I'm sorry, but the simplest I have for your current conditions with fescue would be: May 1, June 1 and September 1: apply Milo then 1# of Urea Late November. or Apply 1# of slow release synthetic June 1, September 1 and 1# Urea late November and 1# of Triple Superphosphate April 1, May 1, June 1 and October 1. In either case apply 1# of SOP (potassium sulfate) May 1, June 1, August 1 and September 1. Then test again next year the day before the June 1 apps. If this were me, I'd walk the neighborhood (looks like newer construction) and ask those people who have a nice lawn what they had done to get it. Added top soil? What type of grass. How they fertilize. How they water? Who they hired or bought from. In other words I'd collect all the information I could get my hands on to help me make a plan I can live with and afford....See MoreLogan Labs soil test 2018
Comments (3)St. Augustine is an oddball grass; it's not quite centipede, which flourishes best in terrible environments, but it's also not quite as sensitive as Bermuda and most northern grasses to resources. Plus you're in pretty good shape. P is perfect, OM is low, but that's the case in sandy soil in Florida. Certainly keep applying it, but don't expect any vast rise. The one recommendation I would make is a little oddball. You're showing a very slight magnesium deficit. And I don't care about it--it's something to worry about next year, maybe. Ditto with the potassium, it's not far enough off to be a problem. So let's go with Encap or Mag-I-Cal limestone--both very pure calcitic limes, ground very small to work fast. Apply 3 pounds per thousand square feet of lawn sometime in March or April. If you can get it down before the front comes out of dormancy, so much the better, but it's not critical. At the end of the season, apply another 2 pounds per thousand square feet. I might-could tap some of the minor elements, but St. Aug won't care, and your iron levels are actually fine, so I'm ignoring those as well....See MoreLogan Labs Soil Test Help (Zone 5b)
Comments (0)Looking for help with my recent Logan Labs soil test. I'm currently in New Hampshire and am in Zone 5b. This is for my backyard where I'm trying to grow a KBG, fescue, rye mix. Looking for recommendations on what to add and would like to stick to organic (non-synthetic) amendments. I've been working at raising the ph the past several years, as I was at 4.8 in 2011, 5.6 in 2014, and added Solu-Cal again this past spring. I have seen a big drop off in dandelions growing in my lawn and thought that might be a sign I was close on ph. While digging the soil for the tests I was quite surprised at the number of earthworms now present (I owe this to staying with non-synthetics) and there were a bunch of grubs. Again, any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you....See Moredaedlus4
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