With a full acre, you may not want to head for the perfect groove, or at least not as quickly as I outlined below. Feel free to add time, any amount that's convenient, between these applications as your budget demands or simply just as you feel like doing. I also always head for the perfect analysis. If you want me to prioritize, let me know, although in this case I've noted that to some extent in the text. I don't know your general location, so I made my recommendations as if you were in central Michigan. While you probably have more of a window than that, conservative never hurts in terms of soil applications! Sample Depth 6": I'll adjust your numbers to the 4" standard. In the future, sample to four inches and state that on the form. Some numbers do change. EC 4.1: Yep, sand. Your soil doesn't hold a vast amount of resources, so plan on testing relatively regularly. Yearly would be optimal, but every other year would be just fine. pH 6.3: An interesting conundrum, some of which is set off by the sodium saturation. Still, I don't want to kick this up too much, but you do need calcium... OM 3.0%: Probably a slightly low reading if you actually took samples to the six inch depth. Still, this is in the Fair range. Certainly always mulch mow, mow all your fall leaves, import leaves if you can, and consider feeding organically (at least on areas near the house that are used). Sulfur 17: A perfectly good answer. Phosphorus 191: I'm adjusting this to 130 in the 0 to 4" profile, although I'm probably a little low on that (P levels tend to be lower the deeper you go, but I can certainly think of tons of exceptions). While not deficient, it's a bit trim, so of moderate to moderately high importance. I've recommended starter fertilizer below, so just get the cheapest. They're all pretty much the same. Calcium 55.6%: A little low, but not horribly severe. The 200 pound per acre deficit is really only about 135 pounds. This is of high importance, however. We use high calcium limestone, not the cheap stuff which is slow, weak, and contains elements you either don't need or that I add differently. Use Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime for the calcium adjustment. Magnesium 21.1%: Actually, this is perfect. The inflated percentage (I like to see around 11-14 in soils this sandy) is because there's a slight calcium deficit. Raising calcium will lower this saturation naturally and without any further intervention from us--although it does take a while to happen. No magnesium required or desired. Potassium 4.6%: There's a slight deficit in the soil, with this percentage as high as it is due to the lower calcium levels. While I want to adjust this, I'm tabling it for this test--it's not severe, it's not important, and it can wait for other things that are far more critical. This number will drop as the calcium levels come up to optimal. Sodium 3.2%: High, but not a problem yet, and the actual amount in the soil is quite reasonable. The higher percentage is kicking up your pH a bit, but the calcium will help dispel a little bit of this. If it stays high and your pH rides too high after the calcium, we can dispel this if we have to. I doubt we'll have to. Minor Elements: Copper is really low, but repeated mulch mowing and mowing fall leaves will tend to lift this a bit, so I'm riding it until the next test. Using organics will also nudge this up. I'd prefer to see around 1 PPM on this soil. Except for iron and boron, all the others are fine. Boron <0.2: Undetectable, which means very, very deficient. Grasses aren't particularly boron demanding, but we do try to target 0.7 on this test. Importance is very hard to determine; if it were me, I'd call this absolutely critical until it reaches 0.3, important after that to 0.5, nice but not strictly necessary to 0.7. We use Milorganite as a carrier and 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source (one box should be entirely sufficient for the entire acre, with plenty still left over). You can purchase 20 Mules at the grocery store in the laundry section. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 12.5 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax. On an acre, that's a LOT of Milorganite, and I'm afraid I haven't tested any other carrier. You could go thinner on the Milo if you want, down to the point where you can just barely get that much 20 Mules to stick--but it's then important to irrigate well immediately afterwards! As long as the amount of 20 Mules works out to exactly 5 tablespoons per thousand square feet, it's fine. Iron 103: Rather trim, but certainly not deficient in the slightest. Still, this won't produce the best possible lawn color, particularly as calcium levels rise. Fortunately, fescues aren't particularly demanding of iron. Whenever you like, you can use Milorganite to raise this very, very slowly, but I understand you probably aren't going to do that very often on a full acre! This is entirely optional. Recommendations: September 1 (or with your overseeding): Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. September 15: Apply 5 tablespoons per thousand square feet of 20 Mule Team Borax. Irrigate very well on the newly-seeded areas at minimum, and the entire lawn if you use a lower level of Milorganite to carry the same amount of borax. October 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. October 15: Apply 4 pounds of Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime per thousand square feet. April 15, 2016: Apply 4 pounds of Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime per thousand square feet. Memorial Day, 2016: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate.

I really don't like their recommendations for a number of reasons. One, sulfur doesn't work. Surface applied, you'll lose three quarters to outgassing to the atmosphere as sulfur dioxide (smog), so thanks for the air pollution. :-) They also recommend some rather difficult or expensive sources (11-52-0, for example). I have monoammonium phosphate on hand. You almost certainly don't. And so on. The zinc and copper aren't necessary, both levels are perfectly reasonable in your soil. In the below, I've assumed you have a northern lawn. If that's incorrect, this will still work, but southern lawns would benefit from a slightly different schedule. ME 22.9: This is a little overinflated by your excess calcium, which results in an ME that's somewhat high. I'm using a standard of 15 for soil applications as it's safe to do so. pH 7.6: Kind of high, but get used to it. There's not terribly much you can do about it (as mentioned, surface applied sulfur does not work very well). Fortunately, lawns are extremely tolerant of a pH in this range, although color will suffer a bit. OM 5.5%: In the Good range, so no specific work needs to be done here. Sulfur 13: Well within normal range. Phosphorus 147: While a bit low, it's nothing extreme and unlikely to be causing much in the way of visible problems. Still, with your pH, I'd really prefer this to be in the 260 range (higher pH levels inhibit phosphorus release). We use good old-fashioned starter fertilizer to do this--just get the cheapest as they all work the same. Recommendations below. Calcium 80.8%: High, but not a problem, and almost impossible to dispel. Certainly avoid any calcium sources. Magnesium 12.9%: On paper, a tad low. In reality, it's just fine--your very high Ca levels are masking some of the Mg in your soil. Your plants have no trouble getting all the magnesium they need, and then some. Don't add more. Potassium 1.8%: This is short on paper, and looks shorter in the soil than it really is. It should be enhanced, but not quite to the levels their recommendations listed. We use potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash) for this, which some garden stores and landscape places carry--or they'll order it for you. Recommendations below. Minor Elements: Fine, but I do mention iron and boron below. Iron 110: Just fine and not a problem, but it won't produce the best color at a pH of 7.6. Whenever you like, you can apply Milorganite at the bag rate to very slowly raise this. Boron 0.55: A tad low. This won't be an issue, but I would like to correct it. We use Milorganite as a carrier and 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source. You can purchase 20 Mules at the grocery store in the laundry section. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 7.5 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax. Recommendations: May 10: Apply 3 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. Memorial Day: Feed the lawn with starter fertilizer at the bag rate. June 15: Apply 3 tablespoons per thousand square feet (not a misprint!) of 20 Mule Team Borax. Labor Day: Feed the lawn with starter fertilizer at the bag rate. October 1: Feed the lawn with starter fertilizer at the bag rate. October 15: Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

"I assume azdoctor has reviewed your lab results? Unless someone is willing to go the extra mile and explain their rationale, I'd just ignore them. Maybe he thinks lawns don't need any chemical other than nitrogen, but we'll never know unless he decides it is worth his time to explain his understanding of healthy soil chemistry." Sorry - I did not explain myself very well. I based my recommendations on the soil test provided. It was not a blanket statement. Grasses, like all other plants require N, P, K, Ca, Mg, S, B, Cl, Fe, Mn, Mo, Ni, Zn. The soil test indicated that most of these did not require adjustment, hence my recommendation. There is a sliver of truth to some of the comments regarding BCSR and soil structure. We use exchangeable sodium percentage (ESP) to evaluate the impact of sodium on soil structure. Alternatively, we can use the Sodium Adsorption Ratio (SAR) a ratio of the chemical activities of sodium to calcium plus magnesium. These are routinely used, and are not nutrient based (sodium is not a plant nutrient). These are most important in high CEC, clayey soils. Structure is less important in sandy soils. Somewhere I posted some articles that describe results of tests comparing BCSR and SLAN. Science is not a belief system. It is a method of evaluating facts. Read up on the facts and then make a conclusion - NOT A BELIEF.

Your soil presents some challenges, but it's pretty normal for your area. You can grow a lawn in it, no problems, but... ME 57.46: This number is vastly overinflated by the calcium in the soil. For the purpose of recommendations and the read, I'm turning this down to 15. It's fairly typical for this to happen in Texas. pH 7.2: A tad high, but nothing grass will object to. It cannot easily be changed, so get used to it. :-) OM 5.7%: Good, edging up on Excellent. Certainly mulch mow and mow your fall leaves, but you don't need to make any special effort here. Sulfur 14: Normal. Phosphorus 205: While I would technically call your target 220, 205 is so close that it's not worth doing anything about the small difference. If you fed the lawn with starter fertilizer once, I wouldn't blink, but it's also strictly optional and entirely up to you if you want to bother. Calcium 88.3%: Sky high, but impossible to change, and grass certainly won't have a problem with this. Magnesium 6.5%: It looks low on paper, but it's really fairly high. No magnesium required or desired, and I'd actually avoid magnesium sources. Potassium 0.8%: This looks very low, but is actually close to optimal (perhaps a tad low, but not worth modifying at this time). Minor Elements: Boron is perfect (a tad high, but it's not a problem). Other minor elements are very high, but again, this won't cause problems. Iron is discussed below. Iron 63: Low, and your pH is blocking absorption. Normally I'd recommend using Milorganite as you can to slowly raise this--in this particular case, I actually recommend feeding your lawn solely with Milorganite for a year or two to lift the iron levels.