share a link to universal chainsaw's chain/bar tensioners

10 years ago

Please share a link to universal chainsaw's chain/bar tensioners that fit in the bar vs the case. I adjusted one on a Craftsman Electric (I think). A trimmer's fell off in the yard that I should try to find (LOL). I was given a new WEN 14" Chainsaw w/o a tensioner built Int or Ext.

A good pull by hand will work but I am not a fan of pulling by hand. If you have owned or used a Wen 2400 did you notice the new sprocket move as if it has something to do with the tensioning? When I pull the chain away from below the bar the sprocket appears to flex but the chain and sprocket returns with zero Slack. The parts diagram does not support what I'm seeing, which means I am missing something.

The Wen 2400 (11 amps) appears less than my 12" Mac 3516 Electromatic (10.5 amps) that I'm "Totally Sold On" (cutting cords of Oak and Pecan).

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Comments (6)

hippy
10 years ago
What are you asking?

Your post makes no sense at all.
loger_gw
Original Author
10 years ago
Ã¢ÂÂPlease share a link to universal chainsaw's chain/bar tensioners that fit in the bar vs the caseÃ¢ÂÂ.

This would have made no sense to me until I saw the chain/bar tensioners (in the last two years on two new saws). They actually fit in the bar vs in the case to push it out for good tension before tightening the bar for use.

The sprocket slightly moving makes no sense and feel I am stretching the chain or bending the bar.

Thanks for the reply, I hope is clearer.
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Does the chain move freely on the bar by hand? If not, your rails could be pinched or your brake band is engaging when it should not be. My guess is that you have something binding your chain if your clutch and brake band are getting hot. I am guessing that the clutch is slipping causing a heat build up your clutch and clutch drum. Your brake band should not be engaging the drum when the brake is off, i.e. the drum should spin freely. Does your saw rev well? If not, check fuel-air system. Check that the filter is clean. Saws will be under powered and bog if they do not have enough air when throttled. Do a compression test if possible. Even better if you can do a pressure/vacuum test. Clutches don't fail as often as other things, but when they do, the symptoms are more likely that your chain will run when you are at idle due to weak clutch springs. Or you might hear a pinging noise as the clutch arms intermittently strike the drum. Others may have different ideas.
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I would first look at the bar and see if there are any uneveness in the links, if it has a buldge or raised area the chain in binding in the bar track somewhere. Then, loosen the bar mount bolts alittle usually two but sometimes just one that holes the bar tight. This will tell you if you are pinching the chain any where or being bound up by the adjustment slide not aligned with the hole in the bar properly. also the chain will sometimes go off tract at the clutch and not be riding in the clutch sproket teeth. Other problem areas are the bar is worn, the chain may have been put on backward, or the rotating sprocket at the end of the bar is bound up or out of sink with the saw bar rail sprocket teeth. When going back togather I alway loosen (back off) the bar tension screw about 1/4". this will make it easier getting the bar hole aligned with the chain tensioner slot. Then I look and make sure I have the chain in the bar groove, warpped around the clutch sproket correctly. Now I slide on the cover, start the nut or nuts and slightly snug them down while rotating the chain to check for any binding. Now, I can adjust the tension on the chain while running it by hand, once I get all the slack out and it should be hard to turn by hand by now I can tighten the cover mount nut or nuts, I still check and see if the chain will move by hand. If you have a brake it should be free during this. Worn bars will make the chain extra hard to rotate when the chain tension is correct, but it shouldn't stop the chain, usually when this happens (atleast in my case over the years) the chain is bound up at the clutch end, out of track as the chain meets the bar, or the tension adjuster lug in not in the bar hole and when you tighten the bar it bound everything up. I have seen some chains so burnt up that the links freeze togather and when they hit the end of the bar or the clutch it binds up. But, this wasn't on one of my saws.
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Sears never made their own equipment but had major shares in suppliers like Tecumseh and AYP. To answer your question about differing drive link counts, it has to do with chain pitch, the spacing between the drive links, and bar/saw design. Your Craftsman probably uses .325 pitch which usually means 72 drivers for 18". Stihl's 18" uses 74. The krauts just have to be different. 3/8 chain on a 16" bar is a minefield. 56 links is the most common but Shindaiwa takes 57. The old Homelites used 59. Stihl calls theirs a 15" and uses 55 drive links. Go figure.
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txtom50
10 years ago
I think you're talking about Oregon Chains "Intenz" system. I pretty sure it was discontinued some years ago.
loger_gw
Original Author
10 years ago
1. IÃ¢ÂÂll plan to visit Home Depot to investigate today.
2. If needed, IÃ¢ÂÂll ask the friend that had the new Craftsman with the tensioner for his model #.
3. Please forgive some of my spelling (visable vs visible), some is me or my keyboard or cpu at times.
4. Once fairly new fuel shows moisture, is it suitable for any use once the signs are removed????
5. How old is gas w/o corn too old and signs of bad to use. A neighbor wanted to give me 5 gals.

Thanks To All!
hippy
10 years ago
OK. You can still get the Oregon 120SP with a Rack & Pinion adjustment.

He threw me a curve when he said.."universal chainsaw's chain/bar tensioners that fit in the bar vs the case. I adjusted one on a Craftsman Electric (I think). " A trimmer's fell off in the yard that I should try to find"..

The only "electric" chainsaw that I have or will mess with is the Oregon CS250E that operates on a 40 volt battery. One of the best saws made for trimming smaller branches in trees.
loger_gw
Original Author
10 years ago
Looking at the Craftsman model # 358.341190 manual online that I adjusted the chain tension on, something was missing. IÃ¢ÂÂm noticing a knob that loosen/tightens the bar and a ring to turn to adjust the chainÃ¢ÂÂs tension. I used a screwdriver and wrench from the side vs a knob and ring.

IÃ¢ÂÂll move on as I can pry the bar out on the WEN for good chain tension then tighten the ÃÂ½Ã¢ÂÂ nut on the bar. So far the saw can not compare with the Electric Mac but can probably be improved.

I feel the MacÃ¢ÂÂs 12Ã¢ÂÂ bar and chain vs 14Ã¢ÂÂ and reduce the clutchÃ¢ÂÂs slip or all will be the Pass/Fail test.

A donated load of Red Oak (attached) I need to get off the ground tomorrow will be a good test if the bar/chain fits.

Have Fun Experimenting.

share a link to universal chainsaw's chain/bar tensioners

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hippy

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share a link to universal chainsaw's chain/bar tensioners

Comments (6)

hippy

loger_gwOriginal Author

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txtom50

loger_gwOriginal Author

hippy

loger_gwOriginal Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

loger_gw
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loger_gw
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