chainsaw chain

17 years ago

Planned to buy a craftsman 18" electric chainsaw.While looking at the saws I decided to check on replacement chains.There were two one was a S62 the other was a H72 (both 18").I know the numbers are the amounts of drive links but why does an 18" chain have two different amounts of drive links ? I questioned the clerk & he was unable to answer the questionalso ran a google search but no help.

Any info is appreciated

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Comments (10)

masiman
17 years ago
What the Numbers Mean:
Example: 72V, 22BP, 91VG
The two-digit number at the beginning of each OregonÂ® chain part number identifies that chainÂs pitch and gauge.

Here is a link to the document that describes Oregon saw chain numbers.

I think the saw chain you are looking at is an Oregon creation. In which case the H series is for Harvesters. The S series may be deprecated and could be now listed as SG and SL. If you are not sure what all this means, get some safety equipment and a low-kickback chain.
durable
Original Author
17 years ago
The saw that I was looking at was a Craftsman 18 electric.
The chains were right next to the saws so I assumed they were craftsman.Sorry I didn't give enough info
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Check out arbositesite.som I think you will feel right at home. There are many used saws in the classifieds in fine condition, as well as saws people rebuild as projects for resale. I'm sure you could find something in your price range, until you're tempted to ante up a little more cabbage for some real cutting power. IMHO, at 8 cords a year, you might like to keep your crasftsman for limbing and small stuff, and then pickup a nice 50-60cc saw for when you're ready to go to work on the big stuff. :) A Husky 350 is probably your cheapest starting point for a smooth, quality saw with decent power. I prefer Stihl and Carlton brand chains, as they seem to stay sharp longer. I use anti-kick safety on my small 30cc top handle saw for the extra measutre of safety during one handed use. I use chisel non-safety chain on my Stihl 361 59cc saw. Some folks recommend safety chain on larger saws if there will be some dirt contamination of the log surface.
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Hi Jakester, Sorry to hear about the loss of your son. You don`t really need a manual for your Nick. As I recall the only adjustments on your Nick are for the topplate angle, wheel depth, and tooth length. Adjust the topplate angle to something between 25 and 30 degrees, this angle isn`t crucial but maintain symmetry on both sides. Then set the depth so that the radius on the wheel edge goes into the sideplate but the inside of the topplate is just contacted by the straight side of the wheel. From the outside of a perfectly ground tooth it will be imperceptible but from the inside the junction between the top and side plates, which is known as the "working corner", will be bisected by the straight line formed by the side of the wheel. If you don`t set the wheel deep enough it will form a topplate that is very sharp but fragile on the leading edge but blunt just beyond. Set the wheel too deep and you will get too much hook which makes the chain grabby and power hungry. Start grinding on your most damaged or shortest tooth. Take a very light cut on each tooth on that side, reset the length stop, and grind each tooth on that side again. Repeat this process until all damage or dullness is ground from each tooth then start the process on the other side. To check that the teeth or even length from side to side simply fold a chain in your hand and place the backs of a couple of teeth together. It is completely unnecessary to first grind one side, pivot the vise and grind the other side in a mostly futile attempt to grind both sides to an even length. Only the best grinders like a Silvey 510 will reliably grind evenly from side to side. Just accept the limitations of the Nick and work accordingly. Don`t forget to dress the wheel to maintain the shape and expose sharp crystals as you grind. You will probably be able to do a complete side on a chain before dressing if you take a light cut. If the teeth turn blue while grinding you are either using a dull wheel or trying to take too much off the tooth in one pass. Also remember to lower your depth gauges periodically.
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Hey masiman, No the point doesn`t get in the way when rolling a log. Approach the log with the handle of the peavey between 45Â° and parallel to the ground with the hook hanging down and shove the handle forward as you contact the log so engage the hook, now push up using mostly your legs and the log rolls. You do roll towards the point for log rolling. The point is essential for getting between tightly jammed logs. I know that some guys prefer a cant hook to a peavey for log rolling but I expect that is probably due to never using a peavey, or log hook. I`ve used and own both and I prefer the peavey for the reasons stated. When buying a hook get the longest that is comfortable and handy for your average work. This is usually somewhere between 48" to 60". The relatively new LogRite brand tools are quite nice but then there is nothing wrong with the wooden handled ones if you don`t leave them out in the weather for extended periods.
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masiman
17 years ago
When I did a search it came up in a few spots that the chain was made by Oregon. Sears makes hardly anything anymore. They give specs on some items to manufacturers but I think the majority of what they have is bought as a commodity. That is, I would bet that Sears neither makes the saw chains nor the chainsaw.
spinnervin
17 years ago
Why not just contact the maker of the replacement chain and tell them what model chainsaw you have. With something as dangerous as a chainsaw one should not guess which is the right part
masiman
17 years ago
There are a couple of saw chain makers (Oregon and Woodsman are ones I have used). If you want really good service, contact Bailey's. They are extremely helpful. Hopefully you can see on the bar what size and how many links of saw chain you need. If you are not comfortable, take the chainsaw to a local dealer that specializes in chainsaws. That probably will not be Sears but a Husky or Stihl dealer. Have them set up the new saw chain for you. You'll be glad you spent the time. I am willing to bet the service experience will be much better than what Sears could do for you.
giventake
17 years ago
Just curious , but did sears EVER make anything ? all i ever saw was a specked out product made by someone else? That made you buy replacement parts from sears? Most of the 'greedy" do gooders have gone the same route, or less, just throw the thing away type tool,I'm just bitter ole man :(
masiman
17 years ago
I think they do even less spec'ing now than they used to. I don't know that they have ever made anything either but I could very well be wrong.
canguy
17 years ago
Sears never made their own equipment but had major shares in suppliers like Tecumseh and AYP.
To answer your question about differing drive link counts, it has to do with chain pitch, the spacing between the drive links, and bar/saw design. Your Craftsman probably uses .325 pitch which usually means 72 drivers for 18". Stihl's 18" uses 74. The krauts just have to be different.
3/8 chain on a 16" bar is a minefield. 56 links is the most common but Shindaiwa takes 57. The old Homelites used 59. Stihl calls theirs a 15" and uses 55 drive links. Go figure.
jugebang_gmail_com
16 years ago
for the electricsaw, the chain is currently in 3/8'LP(3/8'pitch,0.050gauge), we think this website http://www.dokio.cn/faq.htm can answer the question in profession. I have bought dokio saw chain in www.ebay.de , quality is not bad. Maybe you can try!!!
fisher40037
16 years ago
Oregons packaged chains have different numbering than what
the chain's are, why I don't know.
The S62, is their 3/8 lo/pro 91 chain-62 drive link
a very common 18 inch Poulan loop.

The H72 is the common 18 inch .325 72 drive link loop
for Poulan and Husqvarna

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