How to Destroy a Root Under a Shed?
10 days ago
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- 10 days agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay thanked Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
- 10 days ago
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pro's - helping tree roots under new (dry) crawl spacetion
Comments (8)There are people here who qualify as professionals, who may not be on-line tonight, so wait a bit before giving up on advice from GW members. As a non-professional, I would think that gravel would work, but NOT with plastic laid under it. If your client wanted to lay something under the gravel, in this case , I think I would recommend laying landscape fabric (I normally heartily DIS-recommend landscape fabric), just so the roots are less likely to grow up into the gravel. I don't know if the gravel is even necessary, unless you do put down the soaker hose, in which case I would use the gravel to keep the place from becoming muddy. Another benefit of gravel is that it would level out any unevenness of the surface, and it would keep any rainwater that drained under the deck - hopefully the drainage is set up to NOT run under there - from creating mud as well. The soaker hose might or might not be a good option, I don't know enough to say. My inclination is to say use it..., to compensate for the loss of rainfall....See MoreSoil destroyed by construction, how to rebuild
Comments (16)Soil is composed of the mineral (sand, silt, clay) portion and organic matter. Terms such as "topsoil", "garden soil", "flower mix", are meaningless unless well defined. I have found, over many years, that many people think "topsoil" and loam are the same thing when they are not. :Loam is a specific soil type, "topsoil" is just the top 4 to 6 inches of soil from someplace that may, or may not, contain some organic matter. So, some "landscaper" sells a fairly decent soil mix (92 to 95 percent mineral and 5 to 8 percent organic matter) usually about 4 inches on top of soil with little to no organic matter. Simply not enough good soil for any plant that roots deeper then 4 inches. So that 5 to 8 percent organic matter quickly turns into not nearly enough. Most soils I have looked at over the last 50. or so years, have more then enough of the mineral (the sand, silt, and clay) and lacked adequate amounts of organic matter. What the soil you have needs is organic matter, not more of the mineral portion of what makes up soil....See MoreHostas: Under Gum Trees/Between 'Above Surface' Roots?
Comments (1)if the tree is basically destroying the invasive weed known as GRASS ... odds are .. its going to be a battle to SUCCESSFULLY grow hosta under it ... now maybe some of the workhorses.. like undulatas.. might work.. and compete .. but dont waste a lot of money with foo foo ones ... can it be done.. sure.. why not.. with a lot of hard work.. anything is possible ... will it be easy.. no ... frankly... kill all the grass.. throw down a bed of mulch.. install some garden chairs.. pot up some hosta.. and use it as a seating area.. with potted hosta .. and avoid battling the tree altogether ... and most likely.. the tree will figure out how to grow roots into the pots on the surface ... ken...See MoreBurying to the root of this problem: how to do you store yours?
Comments (13)OK, so potatoes and onions are fine playmates. Bad apples, OTOH, are a problem. Everyone gets along with cold ale (isn't the wet sides of the bottles a problem? Plus, I prefer my ale room temp, but that's OK). Plllog - I am having a hard time analyzing the experiment: 'do these last'? I think "these" is a very moving target. I think when onions come from the store the freshness is hugely variable. When they come from a farmer, though, they can vary a lot as well - sometimes soggy in which case they won't last, quickly. I've had some that go on and on though. I just can't really quite make out what determinants really are at play. I haven't made a careful study but it's bedeviling enough that I just might (though I know I won't; I'll rely instead on all this seemingly-knowledgeable hear-say. Life is just too short...) Thanks, all, for the explanations and photos. I haven't yet seen any eureka! product for my needs, and I I'm thinking creativity will be adequate -- that is, there don't seem to be obvious rules beyond - air flow, darkness, coolness. I don't think anyone's worked out the ideal mousetrap yet for this, seemingly. I wonder if there are wicker colanders? I think that might be ideal - small, non-metalic mesh.... Plllog, I may have relatively good unrefrigerated luck due to our microclimate - at the base of a hill (=wind generator), relatively close to the ocean things are often fairly refrigerated ambiently around here. Couple that with dh's obsession with growing shade and lath-and-plaster on at least two rooms, plus high vented ceilings, and the house stays pretty cool all on its own. For example, I'm freezing right now.... (indicating it's time to go hang out some laundry, boost the vit D levels, dry the clothes and stir the blood into warmth in one fell swoop)....See More- 10 days ago
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