I would make copious, dated notes of all conversations with the the logger and the land-owner/developer, so you are not relying on your memories 2-4 months down the road. I would also go out and take your own photos, as many as you can, to have a clear documentation of the damage. Photos all along the line of clearing might not be a bad idea, either. Just be careful about trespassing onto his property, as he sounds as though that might possibly cause problems - it's OK for him to do but not you. And I may be maligning him.... Walking your property line, if you know clearly where it is, and where all the pins and stakes are, and marking it with flagging tape will also make you more aware of what is at stake, and make him aware that you are keeping an eye on things. It will be more money on your part, but if your land was not recently surveyed, it might be an idea to get a new survey run, with GPS as well. At a minimum, do the common property line, so it is VERY clear what is yours and what his. If he hasn't done this, he's a proven idiot (sorry, but this sort of run-around makes me mad!) and you can at least ask for him to pay the costs. Try for a hurry-up job, as it sounds as though the land-owner/developer is not being reasonable and not going to go slow on this. I also second (third?) the advice given above to think long and heard about WHAT you want to get out of all this, and how hard you are willing to work at it. If you push for the maximum resolution, it may take a LOT of time, it will take a LOT of money, and it will be a MAJOR lot of wear and tear on your emotions, energy and psyche. Being willing to settle for some specified mnimum may be OK, but it sounds as though you should ask for more than your minimum, to be sure of being able to bargain down to that. You just have to be clear, going in, as to what you will settle for, what you would reasonably expect to get (which may not be the same as the first item) and what you would like to get, in an ideal world. That way, you probably won't find yourself giving up and settling part way through for less than your minimum, and being sorry 6 months later. I don't know how large a town is near by, nor how rural an area it is, but if the owner is local, sometimes a good "gossip" story can "shame" him into doing what he should have done in the first place. That sort of tactics needs to be VERY subtle, so it doesn't backfire on you, but as a last resort..., and if you feel you will NEVER be speaking to him again, it might work.

Newgen: I've done dozens of bareroots and had good luck for the most part, with only some losing quite a bit of foliage (none lost *all*). But it seems bad luck has hit me this year as I'm 0 for 3 on gritty mix bareroots (all 3 have lost significant foliage). It's depressing and frustrating. However, the worst loser of the bunch has already re-grown quite a bit of the foliage, which is an excellent sign if yours is already doing so a few weeks afterward. I was *sure* I had done well with that worst loser and thought it wouldn't even notice I had bare-rooted 'er. I was wrong. I decided to build some 511 and just refresh the outer few inches of the additional trees targeted for gritty. I'll just wait until Spring to do them -- now THEY didn't miss a beat when I did not bare root and put into 511. I do the majority of the work underwater and/or late at night and sometimes things still go wrong. After repot I relocate to spots only receiving direct morning light with the container itself always protected from direct light. Here in our climate, even 11am direct sunlight is harsh on a recovering citrus when ambient is already 90F by then. If I don't do used these methods, my experience has shown the tree struggling immediately afterward. But again, I've never totally lost one on a bare-root for gritty mix. I've only lost one when I tried to do root pruning simultaneously and another that had root loss from winter freezing. Just a general note to anyone else who may also have struggling citrus after bare-root into gritty: Be sure not to over-fert and especially excess Nitrogen can force the tree to regrow lots of foliage it cannot support -- it will then drop those same leaves and take some of the limbs, too. Just small amounts until a few weeks have passed and you know it's in the clear (no signs of stress). If there is lots of immediate loss, then again stay with a bit lower than normal N until it stops with the loss and settles or even puts out it's first leaf. I'm thinking closer to a 1-1-1 ratio vs. a 3-1-2 or 5-1-3 for normal healthy conditions. Good luck! Chris

I will add a lot of compost to the soil when filling the bag in the hole. Sure, all hostas like some fertilizer, now the tree roots can't get at the fertilizer though. I hope the fabric has some life expectancy similar to landscape fabric, i.e. 10 years. Tex-r is a needle-punched non-woven fabric and also used in permanent plantings to keep weeds out, see the link. Bernd Here is a link that might be useful: Tex-r fabric used in Spinout bags

OK, so potatoes and onions are fine playmates. Bad apples, OTOH, are a problem. Everyone gets along with cold ale (isn't the wet sides of the bottles a problem? Plus, I prefer my ale room temp, but that's OK). Plllog - I am having a hard time analyzing the experiment: 'do these last'? I think "these" is a very moving target. I think when onions come from the store the freshness is hugely variable. When they come from a farmer, though, they can vary a lot as well - sometimes soggy in which case they won't last, quickly. I've had some that go on and on though. I just can't really quite make out what determinants really are at play. I haven't made a careful study but it's bedeviling enough that I just might (though I know I won't; I'll rely instead on all this seemingly-knowledgeable hear-say. Life is just too short...) Thanks, all, for the explanations and photos. I haven't yet seen any eureka! product for my needs, and I I'm thinking creativity will be adequate -- that is, there don't seem to be obvious rules beyond - air flow, darkness, coolness. I don't think anyone's worked out the ideal mousetrap yet for this, seemingly. I wonder if there are wicker colanders? I think that might be ideal - small, non-metalic mesh.... Plllog, I may have relatively good unrefrigerated luck due to our microclimate - at the base of a hill (=wind generator), relatively close to the ocean things are often fairly refrigerated ambiently around here. Couple that with dh's obsession with growing shade and lath-and-plaster on at least two rooms, plus high vented ceilings, and the house stays pretty cool all on its own. For example, I'm freezing right now.... (indicating it's time to go hang out some laundry, boost the vit D levels, dry the clothes and stir the blood into warmth in one fell swoop).