skip to main content

Best lubricant for snow blower?

14 years ago

I just got a new snow blower. Craftsman 88830. I am looking for advice on the best lubricant for the chute... I have read other forums where people have used Pam, silicone spray, white lithium grease spray, WD40 spray, etc.

What has worked for you to keep the snow from sticking and lasted the longest without slopping up the unit?

Any other areas to spray or lube before each use?

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (10)

andyma_gw
14 years ago
Follow the manual instructions for engine oil. Check the oil level prior to each use.
canguy
14 years ago
Engine oil on the chute would be kinda messy. Heavy wet snow will stick no matter what you use, don't try to take too much on each pass, keep the engine speed up and if it clogs, shut the engine off and use a stick or similar tool to clear it. Never stick your hand in the chute.
Related Discussions
Snow Plow service vs Snow Blower
Q
Comments (13)
Hi Bill, Thanks for your advice. Looking at yout post, you have a 50ft by maybe 30 feet, (10 feet per car) area to clear. So that is about 1,500 square feet. You are looking at about 20 - 30 mins. What is your typical snow depth there? If I have 400 feet by 10. I have maybe 4000 sq feet. So Am I therefore looking at over an hour at a minium. In which case maybe a snow blower is not a way to go. I guess my problem is I am just not sure how long it will take me. Anything under an hour would probablly be managable. Anything over is probablly not going to work. Is there a formula to work out given roughtly X square feet to clear and a snow depth of y inches how long it will take? The Honda claims 71 tons per hour. And I read somewhere that snow weighed like 1 lbs per sq foot inch. So If I get an average 4 inch snow fall, it would take me: 4000 * 4 * 1 / (2000 * 71) = 0.1127 of an hour or about 7 minites. Clearly this incorrect. So what is a better formula? Thanks for your kind help, Mike.
...See More
Ariens 5520 Snow Blower - axle bushings
Q
Comments (1)
Snowblowers normally see infrequent use and the axle turns very slowly so you will unlikely ever have a problem with them. You can install flange bearings if you wish.
...See More
New snow blower owner questions
Q
Comments (64)
Now that i have reached the "Geezer" stage in life, and after many years of working with all things mechanical, with the exception of very large ocean going ship diesels, i can see that my simple approach to snow-throwers/blowers doesn't cut it in this modern world! Over the years--we didn't bother with all of the technical jargon i have just finished reading in the past messages, in this section. Oh, we did the regular maintenance, and all that, but, worrying about how much snow something will toss out, and how far, didn't seem to warrant 75 pages of nonsense! Also, an Ariens large snow thrower/blower, is hands down far better than most anything you can buy today! Unless you go to the places that sell real snow equipment! And, just why does everybody trash-talk Tecumseh engines? Geez--they held up just as good as B&S, and sometimes better! Seems the goofs here know so much about them, even though they never owned them, or used them. HMMPH! Any snow-blower i have had, i would remove it from storage, check the oil (which i had changed in the Spring), grease up the fittings, install fresh gasoline, plug it in, and it would start! So now, i just returned from picking up a gift snow blower. An Ariens, electric start, and all that. Only thing wrong that i can see, is it wasn't run last winter because the owner had bought a new one. Today, he tried to start it, and nothing. So he called me and told me i could have it for free! Tomorrow, i'll get it to run, and then i'll have one to use. And, i won't complain if it has a Tecumseh engine, or if it has a plastic chute, or one of the controls won't work right! Some TLC will get it operating again. End of rant! Rusty Jones
...See More
Toro 724 Snow Blower Makes Screeching Noise When Auger Engaged
Q
Comments (11)
UPDATE: The sillcock key did the trick. It was a 4-way cross configuration, with 1/4", 9/32", 5/16" and 11/32" square sockets. I tapped out the cross piece, to give me two tubular sockets, and found the 5/16 size would fit over the set screws. I was then able to place a piece of square section rod in the other end, and used a wrench to get the set screws out. They were not that tight, which makes sense with the alloy pulley they were tapped into. With some prying, I was able to get the pulley off, pull out the impeller shaft (woodruff key fell out with pulley), and remove the bearing assembly. The bearing itself, does not look to bad. I measured the internal diameter and the impeller shaft diameter, and have less than 1/32" of play (far less than the 1/8" Tomplum mentioned). I am still puzzled by the hex set screw in the bearing housing. The brass sleeve runs through the center of a ball, formed by two pressed steel hemispheres. This ball is retained by collars on the impeller housing, and can rotate to compensate for variations in position of the front auger gearbox. The set screw is in the overlap area of the two steel hemispheres, so it may simply be providing additional securing for holding the pieces together. I was also wondering if the assembly contained some sort lubricant, that was intended to permeate out and lubricate the bearing? Anyway, I was intending to check the front auger end bearings next, and then reassemble. I was thinking that some sort of lubricant would be beneficial on the support bearing. Normally, I would expect to use oil on a sleeve bearing but perhaps this application is different? It certainly wouldn't be too difficult to occasionally add a few drops of oil to the shaft on the pulley side of the bearing. I am open to your opinions and suggestions, based on your personal experience and knowledge. Thanks again for all the responses.
...See More
ewalk
14 years ago
The most important change with chute design is the new plastics . You do not need any additional lube for the chute . As Canguy advised maintain the unit within common sense , apply a good wax prior to the 1st usage keep the unit clean in the off season and rewax or paint as req.d lubricate and change oil as operation manual suggests , I would go with a Multi Grade Synthetic and have a great day !
jscozz
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks for the feedback...

As for the wax... regular car wax, or more like a ski wax? Just in the chute or the auger housing interior also?
ewalk
14 years ago
Just the Auger Housing ! Normal Good Garde Car Wax is all that is req'd once or twice a season . As also advised by
Canguy use the Blower according to his recommendation it will save a lot of grief.
jscozz
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks!

As for engine oil... the manual says 5W-30 or 0W-30 synthetic... I plan to use synthetic after the first oil change at about 2 hours or fun time... if there any specific type of 0W-30 oil that is best? i.e. brand or other type (i.e. car, motor cycle, etc.)... I read somewhere that there are certain mixes that are better for small engines than car oil... any truth to that?
jscozz
Original Author
14 years ago
That was supposed to say "of run time" not "or fun time"... although, I am anxiously awaiting the fun time of the first snow fall... got a few flurries today, but I think the neighbors will be concerned if run the blower with no accumulation on the ground! :)
ewalk
14 years ago
No any Brand Name 0W-30W Multi Grade Synthetic will suffice . You will notice really easy manual or elect. starting in the Colder weather and much better viscosity
protection during warmer weather . Go with what you can get the best price on . Any of the leading Manufactuers are pretty well the same , marketing will determine your preference lol . Your idea of utilizing the Break in Oil for the Run in is a good idea !
jscozz
Original Author
14 years ago
That was supposed to say "of run time" not "or fun time"... although, I am anxiously awaiting the fun time of the first snow fall... got a few flurries today, but I think the neighbors will be concerned if run the blower with no accumulation on the ground! :)
GreatMountainView_yahoo_com
13 years ago
I saw your question and thought this would help you. I came across a product that works wonderfully and can be used with many different applications. It is called Clean Deck Graphite. You should prepare all your snow removal equipment by using Clean Deck Graphite on the snow blower outlet chute and deflector, the scraper bar and on the shave plate and auger too. If you have a snow plow blade and a snow shovel, the product works great on them also to prevent the build-up of wet snow. For regular snow removal, you only have to apply Clean Deck Graphite once a year vs. the other non-stick options you spoke about which have to be applied every time you go out to remove any snow. Cleaning up after you are done is pretty easy too as the snow will not stick to your equipment if you coated everything properly and if there is any small residue left behind on the coated areas, you just lightly rinse it off with a water hose. I have really enjoyed using this product. They have a website, but I do not think it is allowed to be posted here in this forum. Just search for the name of the product and you should be able to find it. I hope this helps.

Related Stories

GARAGES 8 Tips for a Supremely Organized Winter Garage

By Shawn Gauthier

Snow and mud make a disorganized garage even worse. These ideas for storage and planning will keep your space clean and dry

GARDENING AND LANDSCAPING Take a Winter Walk on the Safe Side

By Jocelyn H. Chilvers

Learn how to handle snow, ice and other cold-weather landscape factors to minimize falls and damage

FALL AND THANKSGIVING Simple Pleasures: A Cozy Home in Cold Weather

By Laura Gaskill

Stock up on these treats and essentials to make even blustery days and snowed-in time feel special

PRODUCT PICKS Get Prepared for Winter's Wonderful Ways

By Erin Lang Norris

Are you ready for winter? It's ready for you. Here's how to weather the season with a smile

FALL GARDENING 7 Reasons Not to Clean Up Your Fall Garden

By Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

Before you pluck and rake, consider wildlife, the health of your plants and your own right to relax

LIFE Polar Vortex: How Houzzers Are Coping With the Storm

By Mary Jo Bowling

Spirits are staying high even as the mercury plunges to new lows. Do any of these firsthand accounts sound familiar?

HOUZZ TOURS My Houzz: Converted Pennsylvania Pretzel Factory

These DIY-savvy Pennsylvania homeowners turned a cinder-block shell into a vibrant neighborhood gathering place

MONTHLY HOME CHECKLISTS Your Winter Home Maintenance Checklist

By Laura Gaskill

Keep your home and yard safe and running smoothly as temperatures drop and activity moves indoors

MATERIALS Mesquite: The Brawny Beauty for All Over the Home

By Karen Peterson

Denser than other hardwoods and sporting beautiful coloration, mesquite makes a fine material for flooring, countertops, furniture and more

MONTHLY HOME CHECKLISTS Your Fall Home Maintenance Checklist

By Laura Gaskill

Prep your house and yard for cold weather with this list of things to do in an hour or over a weekend

Sponsored

More Discussions

How to build utility room on slab under piling house?

25

How long to grind each chainsaw link while sharpening?

12

drain valve for fuel

1

Chain saw won't run... battery problem for SURE?

10

Question about TraxGarden hoe..........

2