Hybrid Musks....growth habit questions
rjlinva
14 years ago
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brhgm
14 years agocatsrose
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Penelope and Cornelia Hybrid Musk Rose Questions
Comments (22)This is a picture of my Penelope. It was a year ago, and you really cannot tell how huge the lower canes are. I am having a little problem with the new canes. They are quite large, but have nothing to support them, so when it is very windy, they tend to break. (We do have strong winds in this part of the country.) I would never put this rose between Nikko Blue hydrangeas. I think it likes the sun. Also, I am not sure how easy it is to "mold" Penelope. Its width is more than 10 feet sometimes, but it could be that from the center of the rose, it would grow 3 feet in one direction and 7 in the other. It could mess with your hydrangeas, and the hydrangeas not only need shade, but they could shade Penelope. It gets very hot here, and my hydrangeas have shriveled up. Penelope loves the heat. I don't conisder Penelope a shade lover at all. But I could be mistaken. I do love this rose. Sammy...See MoreSeedling revisted, a question to hybridizers...
Comments (10)Thanks for the info everyone.. Its a Tet (Berry Patch X Jewel in the Crown) (the rest of this cross has been duds so far, this is by far the best of the lot, a few wont bloom until next year.) SunFast (fades a little more to a mellow coral, but keeps this color to the end) 18 BC wasnt bad, It was a terrible year, this was by far my best BC on a seedling. I would assume in a year I actually had some sunshine, It would increase to something more reasonable. Though , nothing grown south of me would be as vigorous as would be for them, even in Massachussetts, my season is 2-4 weeks shorter. One of the shortest in the 48 states. It tries to be a semievergreen, but quite frankly I mark things in more accordance of whats Hardy and whats not, what grows quickly with vigor and blooms. All foilage for me will die back to ground level. But this showed green in late fall and early spring last year, where alot of other seedlings were still waking up. It has very nice plant habits IMO , but I would agree that it should lay flatter and have more edge distinction. I will try crossing it next year with a variety of things, and see what I get. LilyNut that article was interesting and I learned some stuff I didnt know, I disagree a little on the rebloom aspect, there really isnt any reason for me to try for rebloom, If a mature clump blooms for 3-4 weeks, well , quite frankly thats half a season for me. Plus I would worry about recessive genes alot. Ive already discovered some of these southern intros Ive used seem to have alot of recessives in them already, where there traits seem hard to pass on. Im all new to this though, so any advise anyone could give , Im more than willing to listen =)... Thanks All, Silverkelt...See MoreF1 Hybrid question
Comments (8)Thanks for that, mauch1. I haven't been able to get to the nursery, but I've searched diligently through loads of places where mixed violas are available, as well as through catalogues and on the web, and I haven't found a viola named or unnamed just like this one. The closest in colour is a variety called 'Tiger' which has stripes, unlike this little plant which is a bi-coloured one I named 'Amber' for my own use. It was in a batch of 'Antique Shades' and stood out because of the colour difference. I just wondered if it could be a throwback or how it might have come about, and the answers from zenman and yourself have been very helpful, thanks again....See MoreTomato Hybridization Questions (good ones)
Comments (13)Maybe it has something to do with heredity, I dunno, but after reading all that stuff, my head hurts. Are weak intellectual constitutions and eye strain dominant, I guess? Whew! Anyway, High Plains Drifter, here are some addresses to cut and paste into your search engine window (since I haven't evolved sufficiently to provide automatic electronic hyperlinks ... gosh, with my diminished capacities, it was a real task to even spell that): http://cuke.hort.ncsu.edu/cucurbit/wehner/vegcult/tomatoai.html http://cuke.hort.ncsu.edu/cucurbit/wehner/vegcult/tomatojr.html http://cuke.hort.ncsu.edu/cucurbit/wehner/vegcult/tomatosz.html What you will find are lists of hundreds of tomato cultivars with descriptions of their applications (whether they are applicable to heat tolerance, for instance ... like Gulf State Market, Creole, Bradley, etc.), and even some parentage info. I hope the lists will be helpful in your search for genetic material to develop your super race of t'maytur. As far as your original question, this is the first year I've attempted to cross pollinate myself; but I can tell you this: 1) I was told (by a knowledgeable member who shall remain unidentified) to only emasculate flowers that were in the early stages of showing color and had not opened or revealed their stigma. However, I emasculated 3 Cherokee Purple flowers that were clearly showing stigma and pollinated them with 3 separate contributing pollens (one "male" varietal contribution source per flower), and 2 of the 3 flowers set fruit while not one of the flowers that were on the same plant set fruit during the same high temperature period of time. It remains to be seen if those two fruits produce hybrid seed. 2) In another case, during the same very hot period of time, I emasculated two Green Zebra flowers whose pedals had spread but whose stigma were still tightly encapsulated by the whatchamacallit pods. I let the exposed stamen sit for about 30 hours, and then pollinated by smearing the stigma with broken open male parts from a yellow cherry tomato (I'm after clusters of small, tart, crunchy, striped, ping pongs with more yellow at ripe stage). One of the two flowers set fruit while not a single other flower on the GZ set fruit during the same period of time. My assumptions thus far (based upon very limited experience and training in this whole thing): A. Either I pollinated the blossoms that I emasculated with their own pollen as I tore off the male parts; or B. I succeeded in pollinating the blossoms with the intended pollen from the male contributors; or C. The blossoms were already pollinated, and I just got lucky enough not to destroy them; or D. The stigma were pollinated by some other means after I emasculated them. My assumption that I succeeded with my intent is only bolstered by the fact that not one single other blossom existing at the time of my activity set fruit on the two plants I was working with. It was during the hottest part of July with daytime temps running 94 to 102 here in S.W. Indiana. As to your question about "how many flowers" to gather contributing pollen from ... it's just too damned tedious to go through tapping, capturing, drying, blah, blah, blah, as described in the scientific literature I read ... so, I just tore off 5 or 6 blossoms (from each intended contributor) that looked ripe or overripe, tore them open, and gently brushed the receiving stigma with the torn parts. I washed my hands with hot, soapy water inbetween each procedure. I ended up having lots of yellow dust on my fingers when I did this, so I assume I got the job done. We shall see next year, right? Regards, Bill (a flatland hybridizing neophyte)...See Moremelissa_thefarm
14 years agorjlinva
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6 years ago
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