Buff Beauty probably would work. I grew it where it got ONLY morning sun, and it was happy.
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Another suggestion: 'Reve d'Or,' which make a beautiful climber.
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These both do well in Southern California.

Jeri

WOW!!!! Which would you describe has having more of a climbing habit than the other (or at least long flexible canes that can be tied like a climber)?

In my personal experience, that would be Reve d' Or.

Jeri

Thanks Jeri. For yellows, would you recommend Molineux or Jeri Jennings for this spot?

I'm probably the wrong person to ask, because I have not grown Molineux. Syl Arena warned me off of it, saying that it would probably suffer from Jolly Green Giant Syndrome in my garden.

I can see that Jeri Jennings is going to have a very pretty arching habit. AND I like the very resistant foliage. So I think it's good, but I can only offer one half of the comparison (which ain't much help). I know Paul thinks in SoCal, it could make a low climber.

I should also mention that Golden Celebration is very good here, and very close to completely disease-free.
It dislikes hard pruning here, but is sufficiently upright and productive for us not to require anything other than normal deadheading.

Jeri

Jenn, most of my roses at my corner lot face northwest. They all do fine with shade until 11 or 12 in the growing season. They have even less light in fall and winter. The only drawback is mildew and rust as I am not much of a sprayer.
Some of the taller ones:

Jeri Jennings (over 2 feet, now in the ground in front of my front window)
Eglantine - reaches about 8 ft.
Irish Hope - about 6 ft.

In my patio with a protected south exposure:
Buff Beauty
Clair Matin (I'm thinking of moving this one as it's too big for the spot it's in but I am not sure what I'll do at this point)
Hope this helps.
Mary

Thank you, Mary. How old is your Jeri Jennings, and how old/tall is your Buff Beauty? Would you describe them as fairly disease resistant (mildew and rust resulting from north exposure notwithstanding...)?

Jen

Molineux has been a great rose in my garden It gets big (6') but not enormous and is upright rather than arching and gives continuous bloom.

Another good climber very clean and continuous bloom is Alister Stella Gray. To my surprise it has been an excellent cut flower too.
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Hoovb -- OMG that's gorgeous!! It appears that the blooms fade to white, very lovely. I read somewhere that it is disease prone if not grown in the right conditions.... has that been your experience? And in terms of pruning, would it be compatible with group 3 Clematis which are cut nearly to the ground?

Our Buff Beauty was perhaps 3 ft. tall and easily 10 ft. across -- when DH dug it up and moved it.
Now, it's long dead, not having survived the process.
Jeri Jennings is about 3 ft tall now, and perhaps 6 ft across, with a graceful, arching habit.
I expect it to get bigger, as it is only about 2.5 years old, and less than a year in the ground.
It has never had any sort of disease here.
In fact, the foliage is really lovely on its own.

Jeri

I just bought Jeri Jennings last spring and it grew in a 15" pot until a couple of weeks ago. I just took this pick on Wed. I am expecting lots of growth this spring following rain and mulch.
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My Buff Beauty is on an arch. It's very disease resistant and flowers more at the end of the season than the other roses I have. It's going into its fourth year.
Here it is on the arch but the pink flowers are actually from the Clair Matin growing over on the left. Guess it wants to be on the arch too.
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Thank you all for your suggestions and wonderful photos.

Maybe I should ask a little differently. Since this rose will grow in between group 3 Clematis (pruned nearly to ground in winter), the rose must require (or at least like) being pruned hard enough to remove all the Clematis vines without having to untangle them from the rose. The easiest method is to plant a rose that has similar pruning requirements.

So let's take color out of the equation... I'd like a climber that isn't a monster, not too thorny, can take morning sun, is reasonably healthy (due to morning shade), and has a very long or quick repeat heavy bloom. If I have any color preference, I'd like to stay away from pink, but very pale pink-to-white is OK.

Climbing Iceberg?

I might be wrong but I know of no climbing rose that likes to be pruned back like group 3 clematis. By the way it isn't such a big deal to prune back the clematis and pull out the parts cut off. I do it every year without pruning back climbing roses to 12" or so.

You may want to choose a not very thorny climber to make this chore easier but even with thorny climbers it can be done. (I have never dealt with Mermaid with or without clematis though.)

Jen, keep in mind that even if the rose is getting the required number of sunshine hours, you will have more disease issues with a rose that is shaded all morning.

I had another nice conversation with Mike Shoup from the Antique Rose Emporium yesterday about finding a suitable rose for a spot such as yours. He told me their weren't any roses that would do very well with morning shade. He felt they all need sunlight in the morning and actually tolerate the reverse better (a morning sun afternoon shade situation). Most cases the rose does best in sunshine for most of the day, if not all day. Paul Zimmerman from Ashdown has told me the same thing.

My personal experience has born this out, but I was hoping Mike would tell me otherwise. In other words, I wanted to hear what I wanted to hear. I was truly hoping some kind of rose would thrive in that situation. This does not mean a rose won't grow in that situation. Many do. It just will never look as nice or be as healthy as one that gets sunshine on it first thing.

Sandy

I tend to think Mike had a point.

Moreover, I don't think there is any climbing rose that is going to perform well if it is pruned in that manner.
Perhaps this is a good application for one of the vining species fuchsias. Or just more clematis.

Jeri

Thank you. Actually, I gave up the hunt for this rose today and I'm changing course to shrubs and large perennials (Salvia, for one) instead. Much lower maintenance, less water, less food, less disease, less fuss!