Old Roses that you have loved the longest.
luxrosa
14 years ago
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sammy zone 7 Tulsa
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Old Roses with the longest vase lives?
Comments (16)Luxrosa -- 'Georg Arends' did get hit with blackspot here in NJ -- as did almost all the others, with a few interesting exceptions, notably 'Golden Buddha' bred by Paul Barden, which has remained PERFECT save for the occasional mildew on a leaf or two (and this says A LOT about a rose in the mid-Atlantic), and the only spray I used was neem oil, baking soda and dish soap in water as a modified Cornell mixture a few times up until late June. 'Georg Arends' shed damaged leaves rather quickly, and did get to an "almost naked" stage once, but leafed out again rather quickly. Keep in mind that this is a rose that came only this Spring as a band from Vintage. I let it have only a few blooms, and yes, they were VERY VERY fragrant -- strong, sweet "old rose" that is said to be "pure Centifolia" but being as I've never smelled a Centifolia, I can't comment on the comparison. They were a monochrome, unshaded pure pink, shaped like a typical fat Hybrid Perpetual cabbage but with the folded-back pointed-petal look of a Hybrid Tea. Considering its ancestry (it's about 3/8 Tea and 5/8 Hybrid Perpetual), that makes sense. Oh, and the plant is completely thornless -- I still haven't found the first thorn. It's growing as though it will be a short climber, or at least something that would do best with a little support -- like against an open picket fence -- so I have it where I can attach it to the lower part of the deck railing as it gains a little more height. I think much of the vase-life is a result of it taking a couple days to fully open, due to how many petals it has. Once opened, it holds up another couple of days. I cut one in the "loose-but-closed" bud-stage, sepals fully back, and gave it to my neighbors who share the yard with me. They kept it in a vase inside right by the window where I could see it while working in the yard, and I watched it unfurling over a couple days. By about the fifth day, it started looking as though it was finally past its peak. And I can't imagine they did anything more than stick it in a vase with plain tap water. If you can't find a plant by Spring, let me know and I'll try rooting another piece of mine. I was hoping to interest Linda Loe of Long Ago Roses in growing a few rooted cuttings of some things I picked up from Vintage which don't seem to be available elsewhere, so at least they don't disappear from commerce. 'Georg Arends' was one of them, so I was going to root a few anyway. HelpMeFind has Pickering as one of the other nurseries carrying it, but it's not on their current HP inventory on their website (perhaps they used to carry it?). Hortico may be the only other way of getting it in the US, though once again, I don't see it among their current HP inventory. :-) ~Christopher When it arrived and was repotted, April 25, 2013: First flower I allowed to open, May 22, 2013: A pic showing 'Georg Arends' on the left ('Nouveau Monde' on its right), taken September 2, 2013. At this time, it's recovering from going naked. This post was edited by AquaEyes on Sun, Sep 29, 13 at 2:09...See MoreDo you have an old Peace Rose?
Comments (1)Gerry, if you read the thread on the Roses forum titled, Which Nursery is Best for Virus Free Roses?, you will find Dr. Malcolm Manners discussing how Peace grows significantly more vigorously and flowers much better after being heat treated to clean up viral infection, I think it will drive home the point that what you really need to do is obtain cutting from UC Davis Foundation Plant Services of VI treated Peace. They offer cuttings of it and many other varieties of roses which have all been heat treated and tested to make sure they are cleaned of Mosaic Virus. Peace was created around 1935, making it nearly 80 years old. Even if you found cuttings from a twenty year old plant, you're still dealing with material that it not all that old and wouldn't be that different from what you've encountered in nurseries. Dr. Manners also discusses the "over propagation" issue and debunks it. The large problem with Peace is its need to hold on to as much wood and foliage as possible to perform at its best. Too often, bud wood or the bare roots themselves are held in too dry storage, something roses of strong R. Foetida heritage do not like. Mauve roses, such as Angel Face and Sterling Silver suffer the same issues as you describe from your Peace plants, and often for the same reasons. My suggestion for success is to obtain the treated material from Davis, root your plants then begin preventing them from flowering until they have developed into the plants you desire. Peace, like many others, can be extremely variable due to many factors, weather and nutrients to name just two. Too cold and they tend to be nearly white. Too hot and they develop too much pink on the petal edges with the yellow fading out to beige. Insufficient wood and foliage and they are malnourished, not performing well at all. By preventing them from flowering, you will push more growth, faster, enabling the plant to build into the husky, heavy plant you expect it to be. The more retained wood, the greater the foliage mass, the more, larger, fuller and more intensely colored the flowers will be. It isn't difficult at all, just keep removing the flower buds as they develop, leaving all the leaves on the plants. If you obtain the cleaned cuttings and root several plants, you will have enough to let them bloom for you while those you are grooming to become the garden plants you seek mature. I'm sure finding homes for VI own root Peace plants won't be hard at all. The link below is to the variety list on the Foundation Plant Services site. You will probably find many more varieties you'd love adding to your garden. Consider it, this can well be the success you're seeking. Good luck! Kim Here is a link that might be useful: Foundation Plant Services plant list...See MoreWhat is the longest time you have had a plant in the same pot and soil
Comments (4)Occasionally I'll find a plant that was last repotted 3 years ago. This always poses a dilemma for me. If I don't care enough about the plant to repot it, I should give it away, but I won't give anyone a plant that's limited by root congestion, so I have to repot it before I give it to someone. Once I repot it, I often figure, "Why not keep it, now that it's repotted?" If you've had a plant in the same soil for years, the plant is being limited by root congestion. If it isn't limited by root congestion, the plant is struggling to grow a root system with enough mass to support the plant. Neither are good scenarios. Regardless of their appearance, plants become decreasingly happy as root congestion and soil collapse progress, and believing a plant in the same pot/soil for many years is healthy isn't realistic. How healthy a plant is really isn't as subjective as it seems. Vitality isn't measured by how acceptable a plant looks to us (though that's a perfectly acceptable yardstick by which to determine whether or not we wish to change the plant's course); the real measure of a plant's state of vitality lies in how much of it's genetic potential the plant is able to realize. Plants with severe root congestion and collapsed soils are only able to realize a small fraction of their potential. That may be enough to satisfy grower A, but might not satisfy grower B at all. The important consideration doesn't center on judging someone according to whether or not they keep a plant in the same pot/soil for long intervals; rather, it's as simple as understanding that root congestion and soil collapse, together or singularly, do significantly impact a plant's vitality and potential, and are always made manifest in limitations. When we pot up or repot a plant suffering from root congestion, we almost always notice what we take to be a 'growth spurt', which isn't really a growth spurt at all. What we're seeing is the plant being allowed to grow some measure closer to it's potential. IOW, it could have been growing that way all along, if not for the root congestion. The improvement we see after repotting up or repotting just shows us how much potential we've been missing. Potting up offers significantly less benefit because it doesn't affect root congestion in the inner root mass. Even if you prune some roots from the perimeter of the root mass, the core congestion remains. Repotting and root pruning, OTOH, eliminates all limitations associated with root congestion and allows a complete change out of the old, weary soil. Al...See MoreWhat soil mix have you had a tree planted in the longest?
Comments (41)Laura, you may want to read this. I have made truce many times and even further..) http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4897055/iron-deficiency?n=21 In particular this) Silica Trickyputt, WTF ??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? Like Bookmark October 5, 2017 at 3:36PM Susanne Michigan Zone 5/6(6) Silica don't feed the troll please :) 1 Like Bookmark October 5, 2017 at 4:22PM trickyputt(8a AL) But Trolls need feeding too. Because you do not care for people learning how to grow on their own I deleted the post that offend you. mikerno_1micha(Zone 6a, Massachusetts) Tricky point, get lost since you have nothing nice to say or I shall have to report you to my friends at Houzz...I have never seen such a crude and rude person here in the ten years or so since I have been helping. There is no place for you here I will make sure of it if you can't be respectful or considerate..I suggest you delete your last one too silica. Just a heads up. Houzz will be coming by as soon as I talk to them. and probably mistake your post for something inappropriate. I don't want him to think anything bad about you since you have been a wonderful help here and I would miss all you have to offer if they banned you by mistake. Waiting on you...See Moremariannese
14 years agoUser
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