A few fun results from minis X OGRS
roseseek
13 days ago
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sultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish)
13 days agoroseseek thanked sultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish)Related Discussions
Apple orchard N and P recs. from my soil test results
Comments (16)Thank you all: The most extreme (by far) chlorosis I'm seeing is on the 9th leaf Freedom tree, the rest are 3rd - 4th leaf now. I'm such a dope for not getting pic.s of the chlorosis symptoms but here is what I (REMEMBER) seeing - the cluster leaves never show any, it begins following fruit set on the new shoots (only I think) and continues on the new growth up until about mid Summer then ceases on the new growth as it peters out, it starts up again around harvest time and remains until leaf fall. I realize this may have some scratching their heads, my observations and recollections have been sub par and may therefore not make much sense. The leaves on a shoot appear destined to remain chlorotic once they have formed and never recover. I'll do a very good job this year of observation and documentation if it kills me, this is embarrassing. Fruitnut: aint our soils just dandy! My math, for what it's worth. 2.8% = 0.028, an a.f.s. of soil = 2,000,000 lbs. therefore 0.028 x 2M = 56k lb. of lime in the a.f.s.. I was aiming for a foot deep so we'll go 56k x 2 = 112k lb., 112k / 2 = appx. 56 tons/A, one ft. deep. I haven't nailed down my S amt. yet to neutralize the lime but am re-thinking the 1 ft. depth to just 6 - 7" for the first year of additions. I've seen the same comments about hoplessness but some are colored by the economic costs associated with adding large amounts of S. I take your point about pH variability in different locations. I did look at a number of pics. and descriptions of apple Fe and Zn deficiency in leaves last year and couldn't separate the 2 looking at my tree(s) it was frustrating and I figured it wouldn't be all that hard to figure out, I was wrong! Well aware of chelated iron and may go that route, my first inclination has been to correct the soil pH and lime issues in that they can cause other problems as well. CSU (and others) recommend a green tip Zn SO4 spray for Zn deficiency, I may give that a whirl this Spring on one side of the tree and leave the rest alone, or do the whole darned tree. H-man: after further reflection over the past few days I agree that I'd best not go for altering the entire soil profile down to a foot this year, probably calculate and amend for the top 6" this Spring then sample 0 - 6" and 6 - 12" next late Fall to see what happened and go from there. If I recall, the wood chips and leaves release a fair amount of Ca when they break down too. I've gone back and forth over the foliar feeding but haven't tried it so far except a very small trial on the pear tree with Fe EDTA, it burned the leaf margins and the rate and drying conditions were correct. After that experience it soured me some. The N source for me is just a matter of getting the most pH lowering for my buck while adding the N, in retrospect, ammonium sulfate has the highest CaCO3 neutralizing effect of all the N ferts., DUH. I don't expect the miniscule amount of amm. sulfate added to my soil to get the N I need this year to pack much of a punch to the pH but it's a step in the right direction, S will have to do the real heavy lifting on neutralizing all that lime. My target pH is 6.5, no plans to go below that, no real reason to that I can think of, point taken. Man I'm starving, thanks again all. there was probably more to write but the stomach has my full attention now....See MoreWhich OGR do you wish hybridizers would use
Comments (47)Great question. I long for more Old Garden Tea roses, and their immediate hybrids. I've often wished I could cross the disease resistant pale yellow Tea roses 'Souvenir de Pierre Notting' or 'Etoille de Lyon' with a Pernetiana such as 'President Herbert Hoover' or 'Etoille de Feu' or 'Duquesa de Penardana.'I never can remember how to spell that name... theres a tilda there somewhere too. all of these roses are disease resistant plants in a local no-spray garden. I'd like to see a flame hued, fragrant ever-blooming Tea-Hybrid that is disease resistant with the rapid re-peat of the Tea class. Locally 'Lady Hillingdon' gets powdery mildew in each of the 4 seasons, but continues to bloom through all, but it is barely fertile. It has been such a popular rose for a hundred and two years, I think another Tea-Hybrid of similar but deeper hues would be a success. A white Tea-Hybrid rose that holds up well as a cut flower would be sublime. I'd like to see a cross between the Tea-Hybrid cl.'Mrs. Herbert Stevens' with the fragrant 'Westside Road Cream Tea' both of which are disease resistant, in my no-spray garden. Or W.R.C.T. X 'Snowbird' or 'White Christmas', which has a sweet fragrance. Alba Semi-Plena for disease resistance, and beautiful foliage, I imagine a white Tea-A.S.P cross through several generations to produce a remontant hybrid. 'Niphetos'X white 'Rose of York'=heaven. I sure do love Tea roses, and Albas. Luxrosa p.s. plan9, look to Groundcover roses from 1990 and onward, many were bred from R. wichurana, and hortico.com sells several of them. I suggest you look for "disease resistant' roses under Groundcovers and then look up their parentage on helpmefind.com I have Ralph Moores 'Simplex' a small remontant wich. hybrid that has apricot buds that open to show white wild- appearing rose blossoms....See MoreWhat class of OGR is best for alkaline clay soil?
Comments (29)regardless of what the stats say on the soil maps, Strawbs, I can definately say my soil is alkaline - not as much as yours but rhodies and azaleas are a distant memory from my northern childhood - our black silty fen soil is top class for cabbages, celery and onions and sugar beet. Anyhow, unfortunately, I am not much of a guide to soil ph and roses since this is an issue which rarely comes up - at least not as much as mildew, rust or blackspot. The only dodgy roses (chlorotic, needing regular sequestrene) I grow have had too close a brush with rugosas - and one of my only Austins, Wild Edric is definately a pale and pasty specimen....although Compte de Champagne comes awfully close and I couldn't say what its parentage is. Annoying, as the rugosas are generally happy with well drained, sandy soil (I am on calcareous grassland. Of course, I do not have the extremes of temperature that you have so I have been able to adopt a blase attitude to ph as it is practically impossible to actually kill a rose here. Nonetheless, not dying is emphatically not the same as thriving - there are roses which are doing considerably better than others. I did expect china roses would be a bit feeble but have surprised me with their general willingness to grow and bloom - Sophie's Perpetual, Mutabilis and Sanguinea have been stars. Even more surprising, the infamous bourbons do well for me too. I would have to say that the majority of my roses are species or close hybrids although I have a weakness for Harkness floribundas. I am incredibly fortunate in that Beales and Trevor White (2 out of 3 old rose growers in the UK) along with Harkness and Legrice are based in East Anglia with similar soil and climate conditions as myself....and fervently believe that this conflation of conditions has a whopping bearing on the subsequent health of the rose once it is planted in my garden so I think you are right, Strawbs, in pondering specific nursery circumstances before considering buying from them....See MoreOGRs from seed
Comments (11)What I did last year was simple actually, it's really fun! There was a big hip on my 'Queen Elizabeth', I placed a baggie around it to stop birds or other animals that might take a taste and loosely tied it with a tie-thingermabob. Sometime in I think October, when the hip is entirely red/orange and less firm, and the flower stem starts to brown, it's okay to pick the hip. Some people let their seeds stay in the hip for a awhile after that. I immediately shelled it, as in took the hip into the kitchen and picked out the seeds. Some hips will have practically all seed to their substance, like multiflora hips, or can be very pulpy ( you can make jam out of that part) and have fuzzy down prickles filling up most of the space, such is the case with many rugosas you see at the beaches in Mass or Maine. Some people actually fill a blender with water, with sand and quickly sand blast the seeds, but I didn't, I was afraid I'd chop them up. Once seeds are cleaned you can take a paper towel and dip it in a solution of water and diluted hydrogen peroxide. There are other methods and alternatives to the peroxide, but I'm not sure what. Now it is time for stratification. I placed the seeds in the paper towel, made sure it was damp but not soakingly wet, fold it for security- then place it in a another baggie. I tape the baggie closed or label it with tape what it is. Generally, if picking hips off of your plants that occurred naturally, you mention the mother plant. Thus if your seeds came from a 'Queen Elizabeth' plant, your seedlings will be 'OP Queen Elizabeth seedlings'. If you put pollen from a different plant one another plant deliberately you label it female x male order, which means you list the bush that's formed the hip, " the mother", followed by the "father" who provided the pollen. You then stick it in the fridge and leave it there for a good few weeks to months. You will start to know if you have germination if the seed coats crack and small things can be visible inside. I sometimes wait for a bit of root formation before planting them, I wanted to be sure. It takes patience, so put it in a place you'll forget about and not bother, like in the butter compartment or something. When you do get some germinations, you can plant the seed in flats shallowly in a very light medium, some people use sand and perlie, other use perlite and other mixed mediums, it just has to be light. You then shine a light (any flourescent light will do, on the flat or pot for a good portion of the day. Since I'm very interested in breeding, and purchase things with breeding in mind, OGR'S are very worthwhile in breeding, however a good number are unfortunately considered dead ends due to sterility. Alba roses, despite having plentiful hips, have a weird chromosome count, thus have difficulty being used in a breeding program. Gallicas seem to be a good class to experiment with, although some are sterile. Same with damasks, a good number of them are sterile. Noisettes are really good. Paul Barden told me that 'Crepuscule's' pollen should be tried on ANYTHING....See Moreroseseek
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