soil test,
proper pH,
aerate,
overseed,
Irrigate, can you?, is there? properly(?)
fertilize as required,
pesticide regulations?

what are your issues other than thin and worn goals,
crabgrass? (like I have to ask)
other weed pressure?

and who besides you is caring for the field?
sharp blades,
mulch the leaves back in,
proper cut height,
and grass type?

available equipment ?

Hello Again,

So I have to admit that I am new to this whole trying to grow grass thing. I'm going to need you help with figuring out some of the things that you asked me.

First, how do I do the soil test?
What do I need to do a PH test?

The field has not been aerated for many years. Mostly because we don't have the machine and because money is tight.

Irrigation:
We currently do not have any type of irrigation for the field. We are looking to hopefully buy something here soon.

Fertilize:
The field has never been fertilized to my knowledge. What kind of fertilizer would be acceptable for a soccer field?

Pesticide:
We haven't used these on the field.

There is little grass near the goals and middle of the field. Overall the field in mostly weeds and crap grass. I will try and take some pictures this week so you can see what we are dealing with.

Continuing to answer your questions:

So there are a few families who help out with cutting the grass at the school. There really is no one who is a paid grounds keeper.

We really don't have many leaves that fall on our field so there isn't much to mulch back in.

I'm not sure what the proper cut height is for a soccer field. I personally don't do the mowing so I don't have much control over that. It does appear that the grass is being cut a little short.

The only available equipment at the school is a small zero turn mower. Everything else that is needed would have to be rented or borrowed.

Thanks for your help,

JR

start with the soil test,
http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/soil/2000054914003462.html
know your pH,( I'm assuming with no groundkeeper, and family/alum field keeping, that Ph may be off, and I would start there.)
aim for 6.3 - 6.8, (others here will be more specific for grass type)
depending on where pH is now, this could be a multiple application / couple year correction
you could get a pH test kit at HD, or garden center,
but ItâÂÂll be better to send a sample to your state or local ag station,
because you'll also want your calcium:magnesium ratio (7:1) so you can apply correct type Lime, Dolemetic or Calcitic,
soil results should tell which type, but ask to be sure they do.

Soil test will also determine fert needs, but I would start with Ph first as the correct pH will let the soil and grass better utilize any ferts you may apply.
Fert can be as complex or simple as you want, organic and or synthetic, but the pH makes it work.
Organics slow down now in the Fall here in Ct, too cool a temp, IâÂÂm thinking about the same in Maryland.
Also getting a little late to renovate, germinate seed, especially with continued play, thru Fall.

With no equipment weâÂÂll leave aeration alone for now,
But it makes me think,
Maybe hiring a local lawn co for a quick renovation,
Aerate, overseed, Lime or fert(soil test first)
TheyâÂÂll have the equip and might kick start a recovery.

Is the field used for Spring sports?
IâÂÂm guessing yes.

No irrigation can be tough to grow better type turf grasses,
could be a good Big Ticket investment for the field and school.
If you get to reseeding overseeding youâÂÂll want to pick a grass variety for the conditions.
A Tall Fescue seed type should do ok with no irrigation, but will require annual overseeding as it does not spread like a KGB which I donâÂÂt think you can support, (needs fert and irrigation)

Am I spending monies you donâÂÂt have?

Cut the field as high as possible, 3 -4 inches off season thru Summer, and as high as acceptable for play,
Adjust to game height (2 ý - 3â ??) gradually over a week or 2, multiple cuttings, as season approaches.
Keep the blades sharp, gives a better cut, and the cleaner cut is less damaging to the grass and helps prevents disease and plant stress.

Forget pesticides, they only hurt soil health anyways, and school families donâÂÂt want them,

ThereâÂÂs lots more details on this site, and the organic lawn site, that you can search, but these would be my no budget starter kit.
Post the pictures, and further questions and details,
Others with more knowledge should chime in.
Get the other caretaker families reading here too.
And good luck