Thanks for your response. The reason I have Fescue is because it was recommended by the hydro-seeder for its drought tolerance and holding up in our acreage life style. I will say the grass we have going has done great through the drought. When all the neighborhood turned brown our lawn still looked decent where we had good grass. It also seems to have a longer active season. I don't know that much about grass varieties but have avoided mixing grass because I did not want color/style variations throughout the yard. As far as fertilizer even your cheapest method is not really cheap. At $5.00 (high end) per 1000 SF that's $400. If its successful I am OK with that but sure can't afford to do it several times per year :) I have the north part of land growing pretty well. Just trying to kill all the weeds. The only part I am really worried about now is the acre around the house. I can only run 3 sprinklers at a time so its an all day deal to water. But watering an acre of grass is easier than watering an acre of dirt with grass starting. Any where the dirt shows the sun cooks the moisture out of the dirt. That said its getting easier as time goes on. I cant see that sending soil away to have it tested is not an option for me. As I said the dirt is going to be totally different every 20' around here. So for now I just think I need to really commit to growing grass in the fall and work hard at it and work in some fertilizer as you mentioned. I will check out the pellets.

With any weed-service contract, you have to expect that the chemical used might not kill ALL species of the weeds you have. It would be better for you to do some research into the particular weed--see what is effective on it. When a liquid broadleafed weed killer is used, it is recommended to water the area first....water it rather well, then wait for an hour. This acts as a capilliary action to draw the weed killer down to the roots of the weeds. Often, in warm areas, weed killers are used on nice, windless days, during the hottest part of the day and a lot of the liquid evaporates or runs away from where you want it. The watering first can help defeat that. Dependent on what kind of grass will stand up to broadleafed weeds might be another thing to look at. Generally, if you have tough weeds, then a second application is warranted. But, do give the first application a chance to work. Overkill will only hurt your soil and its ability to grow grass. If your grass, what grass you do have, is poor, that suggests your soil is not up to scratch. Whether you dig in organic matter or just layer it over the surface is up to you. But, if you can see your way to putting a layer ...1/2" - 1" of compost or good topsoil, over the area lawn in spring and fall....and do that for the next four years minimum, this will often result in much improved lawn. I realize in your neck of the woods, being a transitional state---through middle America, you might use a number of types of grass. What you have to do is find a type expressly for your circumstances....and stick with it. In the north, we regularly use a combination seed...Kentucky Blue...for sun; perennial ryegrass for toughness--able to take heavy traffic, and fescue for where shade might come on it. The independent grasses don't take on their own color or growth, they swim together and makes for a nice lawn. In your area, such combo wouldn't work....it would burn the first time your Oklahoma summer hit it. But, a combination of grasses you do use, might work. What do your neighbors use....what success does your neighbors have with lawns and does the local full-service garden nurseries give any advice. You might go to your local state funded university EXTENSION SERVICE, provided by such institutions. Thus, Oklahoma State and other colleges are at your beckon call. They have agriculture departments and many do soil tests at nominal charge, or free of charge. After all, they are funded by you....the Oklahoma taxpayer. A phone call might tell you if, and how to go about submitting a soil test. (actually its 'soil tests'....they require multiple samples from different parts of your property to give an accurate up-to-date result.

I don't understand the need to do so much work to get rid of a plant. Grass is like any other growing plant, it has roots and uses water and soil to grow and needs sunshine to prosper. So, eliminating any of them should kill the plant. The work involved to remove it may be an arduous task on a summer day but cover it with a black covering--any dark material that can be laid down, kept from blowing off, will kill the grass in short order. Another thing, if you have some spare framed windows, laying them over a lawn will kill the grass in one sunny day.....even on an overcast day. Then the problem of removing the resulting dead material is still necessary. The best part of these types treatments, the soil is not affected, no chemical poison and the replacement seeding/sodding can be made as soon as practical.

I'm not sure what you're reading, but I think you should slow down and take this in. Zoysia is a grass. If you think of it as a weed, then it is a weed. The definition of a weed is an unwanted plant. For example bermuda grass is considered by many to be a weed, and by many others to be the finest turf grass available. As far as weed killers go, zoysia may or may not be affected by the chemicals. There are no organic weed killers that work. 20% vinegar will kill the tops of most plants but not the roots. Hand pulling and solarizing are the non chemical approaches that will eventually get rid of unwanted plants in the lawn. There is no organic lawn police watching to see if you do every single thing with organic materials. People who claim to be organic with their lawns generally are talking about fertilizing and insect control. Weed control cannot be done with any organic product. So what many of these people do is fertilizer with organic but kill their occasional weed quickly with a light blast of the proper herbicide. Once the weeds are gone then the lawn becomes fun again and they get back to organic fertilizer. Dragging this process out by hand pulling can be discouraging instead of encouraging. Ragweed is the kind of plant that should be killed by regular Weed-b-Gon. WBG kills broadleaf plants but it does not normally hurt grassy plants. There is another product called Grass-b-Gon which kills grassy plants but not broadleaf plants. You could spray the WBG product on the ragweed areas and kill the weeds without affecting the surrounding grass. For the crabgrass you could either carefully spray Grass-b-Gon being careful not to spray the surrounding zoysia. Or you could spray another product that only kills crabgrass which does not affect the zoysia. Someone else can help you with the name of that. Cornmeal is not a preemergent herbicide. You are thinking of corn GLUTEN meal. The idea that CGM worked against weed seems to have been dreamed up by the University of Iowa. Even their testing showed that the best they could do was 80% control and that was after Herculean amounts of CGM were applied on a very specific schedule. 80% is not very good. Even if 20% of the crabgrass seeds germinated, you would still end up with a full crabgrass lawn by July. And nobody but a university would ever do what they did to prove their fanciful theories. Still, we (organiphiles) tried it over and over. After many years of using CGM I can tell you for certain that it has absolutely no practical effect on weed seeds. Several years ago I used it at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet every month of the growing season from April through October. That was 140 pounds per 1,000 square feet over the course of a season. I never saw any reduction in weeds. On the other hand, both corn meal and corn gluten meal are organic fertilizers when applied at 15 to 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. CGM works better as a fertilizer, but both work fine.