scottamuss, Thanks. I'll go ahead and post it here... By the way, I feel soil quality is more important than water. Far too many gardeners over water. Take the time to learn that there is not a "cure all" for every pest at every stage of it's life cycle. Some won't work if it's going to rain. Some don't work well if it's too hot, etc. Pest management is complex, if you wish to use chemical products, do so responsibly which goes further than reading the label. If you want to learn, a good place to start is here: Integrated Pest Management This lecture is presented in two parts. Each part is 90-minutes in length. Recorded in Sacramento County in California's Sacramento Valley, this lecture is by Mary Louise Flint, Ph.D., Director, IPM Education and Publications, UC Statewide IPM Project and Extension Entomologist & Cooperative Extension Specialist. Education: B.S. Plant Science, University of California, Davis Ph.D. Entomology, University of California, Berkeley Appointment: 100% Cooperative Extension Research Interests: Integrated pest management of landscape, agricultural and garden pests; biological control of arthropod pests; alternatives to pesticides; adoption of alternative practices by practitioners; innovative delivery of pest management information. Topics discussed in the Integrated Pest Management Lecture: * IPM references and resources * Preventing pest problems * Natural common enemies * Making less toxic pesticide choices * Controlling aphids, scales, caterpillars, coddling moths, tree borers, snails and slugs, and lawn insects. You can watch the programs now online: Just make sure you have Real Player installed or download it free. Integrated Pest Management Part1 90 minutes Integrated Pest Management Part 2 90 minutes You'll want to bookmark the following link to Professor Flint's Lab Research on: Controlling Pests in Gardens and Landscapes: Vegetables and Melons I promise you'll learn one or two things to put in your gardening bag of pest management arsenals. ;) On Watering Some people want to customize the water for every plant. It's ambitious to try to give each plant the exact amount of water it needs but not practical or necessary. Even if someone gave you a chart, it would still depend on the quality and friability of your soil as well as the stage of the plant. So long as you have good drainage, the plants will take what water they need. General rule of thumb is that gardens require one inch of water per week by supplementing rainfall. You will have to adjust throughout the season and be attentive to the amount of rainfall you receive each week. There are two schools of thought on watering. Frequent shallow waterings or less frequent long, deep waterings. The general rule of thumb is that mature plants need 1-2 inches of rain per week in summer. You should provide whatever portion of this moisture is lacking. One inch of rain equals 65 gallons per 100 square feet of garden space. But this is just a guide. Time of the season, stage of the plants, soil composition, and many other factors affect the amount of water required. Be consistent during fruit production. Mulched plants require less water than plants that are not mulched. Raised beds require more than non-raised beds. If a good amount of compost is incorporated into the soil, less water is needed. Compost holds 6 times it's weight in water. Watering too frequently and too heavily is just as hard on plants as too little water. Roots require oxygen just as much as they require water and nutrients. Dry winds dehydrate plants. Cooler temps require less water. Those using drip irrigation whether from a soaker hose or milk jug are likely getting the best use of their water which is going right where it needs to go and the ground has time to absorb it. There are hundreds of methods of watering. Whatever you do, just be consistent. But I do agree, twice a day sounds like too much. Roots require oxygen equally as much as they require nutrients and water. I personally believe in a couple of deep waterings per week with the use of 2 inches of mulch to reduce evaporation and maintain a more stable soil temperature. Plants recover from dehydration much better then they ever recover from the roots being suffocated by drowning so under watering is better than over watering until you get the hang of it. Oxygen is equally as important as water and nutrients and rain water is always better than municipal tap water.

I don't know if scalping is effective against Star of Bethlehem or not (it isn't a weed I have any knowledge of). I would suggest googling on this weed for effective control measures as scalping, depending on your grass type, may do more harm to the turf than the weed. A healthy lawn will be an ally against any weed. Not a cure all, but an aid. I wouldn't do anything to jeapordize or delay it's health and vigor while trying to control a weed as it will usually prove counter productive. I am including a link to a site on control of this weed. The bad news is that it appears chemical controls may be the only viable option other than hand removal which can be a very time consuming effort if the weed is widespread (and it sounds as if it is). Even if you are willing to resort to chemical controls, there aren't many that have tested as providing effective control of this weed. There are a couple listed in the link, but I am not familiar with them, their short and long term toxic effects or any other environmental/safety concerns. The link is for information only, I am not advocating the use of any control measure in the link. If you choose to use them please read the label instructions carefully and head them closely. Consider using a surfactant such as soap to increase the effectiveness and thus (hopefully) reduce the amount you have to use. http://ipm.missouri.edu/ipcm/archives/v14n5/ipmltr1.htm If any organic only adherants have an organic rememdy to suggest, now is the time to do it. I don't know of any organic controls that would work, but I certainly don't know everything, or anywhere close to it.

Hello, I'm new to this site and just starting in organic lawn care. I've seen lots of advice about getting rid of sod webworms with BT or nematodes, but how do you stop the moths from laying more eggs? How do you get rid of the moths themselves?

I'm a newbie to gardening. I'm growing some veggies for the first time. My Purple Hull Peas appear to have some Black Aphids on them. At least that's what I've been told they are. I really don't know. I bought 1500 Lady Bugs. I released them per the instructions. - Stored them in the refrigerator. - Took them out and warmed them up for about 30 to 40 minutes. - Released half at dusk on the first night. - Released the other half at dusk on the second night. The Lady Bugs just strolled around the Purple Hull plants, walking right over the Aphids, not paying any attention to them. Okay, a few looked like they stopped to eat a little but, not very many at all. In a couple of days, there were hardly any Lady Bugs in the garden. A few days more and the Aphids have spread. They're taking over! I just sprayed some "pre-mixed" Garlic and Pepper Tea on them. I hope that helps. But, if not, I guess I'll try the Neem Oil (from seed, not leaf) or, maybe some soap and water with some oil mixed in.