Photos would help. Did you get any rain this summer? Did you water?

Aerate and heavily over seed this fall. Once grass comes up in spring and matures, kill off weeds with a concentrated liquid weed killer through a pressurized container (Home Depot, $20.00)Without pics, hard to say, Maybe you need to kill al this fall and apply new screened soil in spring and seed. Keep it moist, not soaking wet.

Next year, mow high, (4") that will help with your weed probs.

Also, get some compost or organic matter in there. Milorganite (found at Lowes or Home Depot) or scotts organic fertilizer ( found at Home Depot ) will get soil ready for your new seeds.

If you had written in the spring we could have predicted this outcome. It happens all the time, but don't despair. What you have succeeded in doing is not losing your soil to erosion. This is a good thing.

If you are going to kill everything, Round Up is your tool. This is an option step. Spray it yesterday and watch for a week. Spot spray any remaining green stuff and wait another week.

Mow your mess to the ground. Mow as low as you can with your mower and see if the local rental place has a mower that goes lower. Or rent one of the following devices: slit seeder, power rake, verticutter. All three of these cut into the soil vertically. You can adjust it so that it just barely scrapes the surface. That's what you want. Run it every direction until you have removed all the vegetation. The alternative is to hire a guy with a tractor and box blade to scrape your surface for you. After you run the power rake, then blow off all the chaff with a leaf blower and compost that. Now you should have a great surface for seeding.

Apply the seed. If you live in bright sun, then be sure you have Kentucky bluegrass in your mix. Buy the best seed you can afford. Good seed (seed with no weed or other crop) will be significantly more expensive than what you find in the green bags at Walmart or other box stores. If you get seed with weeds or other grasses mixed in, you will be fighting those weeds next year. If you have a lot of shade, then fescue will be the only choices that will work. Fescue requires more seed and annual reseeding. KBG does not.

Roll the seed down. Whether you cover it (topdress) or not is up to you. I've seen excellent results with or without going to the extra trouble. If you topdress, only use an organic material like straw or peat moss. Do not follow up by raking.

Water it 3x per day (breakfast, lunch and dinner time) for at least 3 weeks. Kentucky bluegrass takes 3 weeks to germinate, so don't stop early. Continue watering until the grass is 4 inches high. Then mow it down to 3 inches and back off on watering. Eventually you will water it once a month in the winter and once a week in July and August.

Take a look at the resources available to you from K-State.

With all due respect to dchall, bluegrass is a poor choice of turf grass for most of Kansas. And we don't do too much turf irrigation here in winter...

Your local county extension people have useful printed material as well.

brian

Here is a link that might be useful: turfgrass establishment in kansas

Aerate and heavily over seed now!!!!WATER WATER WATER....Did say water?! Aerate and HEAVILY over seed. Come spring and next summer you'll be the envy of the neighbors. Follow the SCOTTS plan on the back of the bag!!! Remember, every mistake is a learning tool! It takes a while but in a few years they will be coming to u to ask for advice!!! Been there, done that. Good luck!

brian_zn5_ks, why do you say KBG is a poor choice? The link you posted says the following about ornamental turfgrasses for homeowners.
Turfgrasses grown for their aesthetic appeal, moderate maintenance, and moderate to high quality are placed in the lawn turfgrass category. Common and improved types of Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrasses, turf-type tall fescues, fine fescues, bermudagrasses, zoysiagrasses, and buffalograsses are included in this group. These turfgrasses are commonly planted on home lawns, commercial areas, park settings, and other landscape areas requiring turf having a good appearance.I like KBG because it is a sod forming grass and not a bunch grass.

I realize most people (not just Kansas) do not water in the winter. Many people get precip once a month so it is not needed. My underlying message is that for the health of the grass and especially soil microbes, it is good to not let them dry out in the winter. I know the southern lawn owners in Dallas will rethink their winter watering after they lost their lawns to the freeze last winter. Had they had moist soil instead of dry soil, they would have saved millions in the extraordinary measures they had to resort to this spring to revive their lawns.

The K-State link is good general info for "the north central region". The OP did not say just where he is in Kansas, or if he had an irrigation system, and that makes a lot of difference in the selection of an appropriate turf.

Eastern Kansas, Kansas City and so forth, yeah you can grow bluegrass. The farther west, more problematic. For over 30 years the K-State turf people have been trying to wean Kansas homeowners from the expense and work of trying to grow bluegrass. Turf type fescues are a much better bet.

Wasn't trying to be snarky about the irrigation comment, dc. You are dead on right about winter moisture needs of turfgrass. Most folks in my area shut their irrigation systems down by December, and take their chances. It is a practical compromise - by January the irrigation companies are plowing snow to make a little money until spring, and they would laugh at a homeowner who wants irrigation at that time...

perhaps the OP would find this link most suitable to his needs - unless he lives in Dodge City - nothing but buffalo grass there!

brian

Here is a link that might be useful: tall fescue lawns in Kansas