I guess I did ask my question without regard for why the stones were there or whether it was right that they should be, and perhaps on the LD forum it is right that that question would be raised. I didn't think about going to another forum because the question came from another thread here. I used the example of a raised bed in the middle of a lawn as an example of why this question might be of broad general interest, but as it happens that isn't what I'm doing. I am trying to create some topography, having a tiresomely flat yard, but at the foundation, not in the middle of the yard. Fortunately our porch is of masonry block and dirt can be piled against it. I am having to slope down to avoid putting dirt against either side of the wooden stairs, which abut the centre of the porch, so my raised bed is bound to be an imperfect design. But I want rocks, and I want relief from flatness, and I want a stepped rock garden, whether it constitutes good design in my setting or not! I was driving around the suburbs today noting the use of stone in yards both obviously professionally installed and maintained, and DIY. In one case gravel was the surface of choice outside the fairly large stones. In another case, someone had lovingly and optimistically ringed all the beds with quite small rocks, and was clearly losing the battle to keep the grass from growing between them. In yet another case, someone had installed - but not quite deep enough - plastic edging with the rolled top around another small rock edging, showing to just what dreadful extremes one can be driven by the frustration of grass invading rocks, or being unable to mow. It is perhaps surprising in these cases that the removal of the rocks is apparently not contemplated. I think it's a question worth asking in some cases, for reasons of either design OR maintenance. KarinL

Best wishes to your brother. Interesting product. It took me a while to find where it explains what plastic. I always like to know because different plastics have quite different properties. I wonder if it would produce much dust when cut. It sounds like it could be soft to me. Here I've only heard of similar recycled pavers for play areas, and they are soft so they are safe for kids. Interesting idea. Regarding this post - It was said "might want to check is if the ph level of your soil has been changed" I seriously doubt that a "dust" layer will significantly change the pH of any soil. Let the rain wash the stuff off, then relax. I don't know because I don't choose to grow plants that are significantly affected by soil ph (think hydrangeas for a spectacular example), but people who do DO seem to take things like nearby building materials and newly built walls seriously. I don't think it's a big deal, you just buy a little tester at the garden centre and if it shows the ph is outside the optimum range I'm sure they'll be able to suggest what to do. Or just wait and see, it might not be a problem at all, but if you notice the next crop not growing as well then you know one possible factor to investigate. As for the rain washing it off, I imagine the rain will dilute it but in a flat garden bed with presumably friable soil, where is off ?

25 years ago I had to choose between stone dust and sand when laying a brick patio using standard sized bricks. The underlying ground here in Virginia is fairly high content clay, I can absolutely state that stone dust is the way to go.... here are a few pointers; 1. Use a rigid but moderately flexible edge guard to define the area. I used aluminum about 4 inches tall. Don's use something softer like plastic or nylon as it will flex and your bricks will start to migrate all over the place no matter whether you use sand or stone dust. 2 . Use 4 inches of stone dust, but apply 2 inches first...then compact it with a manual or mechanical tamper....then thoroughly soak with water and wait a couple of days before applying the 2nd layer of stone dust and tamping and watering again. (BTW, I really don't understand the comments about stone dust not draining well....you will see the water soak quickly through the stone dust.) 3. Make the area as level as possible using a screed (look it up :) 4. Install some water permeable landscaping membrane on a fairly well leveled area. This will promote drainage and stop weeds from infiltrating from below. I will also make it easier to slide the bricks into place. 5. Install the brick. Either full size bricks or the thinner pavers. I used full size bricks which are more stable. To ensure that the bricks are level with one another, place a piece of piece of wood (approx 3" x 8" by 3/4" ) across the surfaces of the brick you are working on and its adjoining bricks...then hammer it with a large mallet until they all the bricks are even. Give then some good wacks...full-sized bricks can take it so long as you use wood as a buffer. Be gentler with the thinner pavers. 6. Depending upon your personal preference, you can butt the bricks directly up against one another or place a think spacer between them. I use pieces of asphalt roofing shingles to maintain uniform spacing. I like the look and using spacers allowed me to adjust the alignment for bricks which may not be uniform size. 7. Regardless of which way you go on item 6, sweep stone dust into the joints between the bricks. Wet the area, let it dry and repeat again. The irregular shapes of the stone dust will lock the bricks into position much better than sand, which is more round. Sand will not get into some of the smaller joints between bricks. 28 years later I am still VERY happy with my results. Occasionally a nearby tree root will distort things a bit but that will happen with either sand or stone dust. I just remove a few bricks and cut out the root. The only periodic maintenance I need to do is sweep new stone dust in the spaces between the bricks one ever 4-5 years. Good luck.

crewe you really should start your own posts ... and narrow them down to one topic ... as here.. you are moving on from the old post topic of fabric.. into other areas ... the theory being.. that if you start a new post.. with a searchable title.. then others can SEARCH for the new topic ... dont worry about too many posts ... its just not an issue ... that said.. i have no clue what your second question is.. the words are confusing me.. and that is part of your learnign curve.. word use ..... but in general ... pull back mulch.. plant.. put mulch back .. 'mulch' is a ground cover to reduce soil heat.. interfere with weed germination.. keep the soil loose ... and reduce water evaporation .. it is NEVER amended INTO the soil ... that would be 'compost' ... but we rarely amend soil when planting trees/conifers anyway ... so.. start so new posts with singular specific questions.. and we will get you where you want to go ... see link for planting guide ... there will be a pop quiz on it.. lol ... ken Here is a link that might be useful: how to plant