Well, I finally did it...overseeded the 10-month-old TTPR/KBG lawn with TTTF and KBG...and it worked! So it can be done...but read on to find out how I did it...I was quite careful due to what people on here had told me about the PR messing with the germination of other seed due to allelopathy. I did this a little over a month ago now. I actually prefer the lawn consisting of a mixture of these three species, guess I'm odd since no one else here seems to like that three-way mix). We're at ~4.5 weeks now. The existing PR thankfully did not prevent or delay germination of the new seed. The TTTF started to come up within 6 days, and was fully up in about 3 weeks time. The KBG just started coming up last week. Perhaps it wored so well because the PR was only 10 months old. Or b/c it got heat stressed. Or b/c I mowed it to ~1.8 inches before hand on the last mowing before starting the project. I also thinned the lawn fairly drastically prior to over seeding, by utilizing heavy core aeration (three passes) and also verticutting (two passes). I brought up a lot of dead and living grass in the process. I'm currently touching up the few spots that need it with a little extra seed. Here are some photos of the project (same area plus or minus a foot or two) at the various stages for reference (I do consider it a successful outcome even if it was my first time doing it and I learned a lot!): The top photo is the before photo, taken on 8/17/12. The middle photo is about ten days after overseeding, on 8/29/12. You can see the existing PR and KBG, and the TTTF was in the midst of germination, but is hard to see in the pic. And the bottom photo is from 9/21/12, taken right after the first mowing and application of starter fertilizer (I decided to hold off on the fertilizer until after germination so as to slow the growth of the existing grass to prevent it from overtaking the new grass. I'm glad I did this). Here is what I used for overseeding: -TTTF (approx 75% Firecracker LS and 25% Bullseye) -KBG (approx 33% each of America, Bewitched, and Rugby II) -A low amount of the existing TTPR seed blend (see below) was mixed with the fescue and KBG seed; I only used this in those areas that were really bare after the verticutting/raking. In this way, I created a uniform lawn in the bare spots that blended with the old grass. (The existing lawn prior to overseeding was a blend of KBG and three cultivars of TTPR sourced from from Allied Seed: ASP6005, ASP6002, and ASP 6001.)

Your soil is fine. As long has it has not been poisoned it can be improved by applying appropriate materials at the top (as opposed to rototilling it in). I am going to guess that you have 100% fescue grass in between your weeds. If you had any Kentucky bluegrass, you would have different issues. If you ever had any KBG, it's officially gone. Fescue is called a bunch grass and grows in clumps. KBG is called a sod forming grass and spreads to form a carpet over everything. If you planted a mix of fescue and KBG, the fescue would grow in clumps and the KBG would fill in the gaps everywhere else and not let the dandelions in. You said you were able to get a gorgeous lawn but the inference is that it took you 10 years to get there. If that is the case, I suspect you need to brush up on the basics of lawn care. It should not take long to get a great looking lawn. And for now I'm going to suggest waiting on a soil test. Why? The corrections can occupy your life and you have not demonstrated yet that you have the huevos to make a pretty good lawn. In other words, save your money until mid summer and ask yourself if you want to take it to another level of perfection. Here are the basics of lawn care. Basics of Lawn Care After reading numerous books and magazines on lawn care, caring for lawns at seven houses in my life, and reading numerous forums where real people write in to discuss their successes and failures, I have decided to side with the real people and dispense with the book and magazine authors. I don't know what star their planet rotates around but it's not mine. With that in mind, here is the collected wisdom of the Internet savvy homeowners and lawn care professionals summarized in a few words. If you follow the advice here you will have conquered at least 50% of all lawn problems. Once you have these three elements mastered, then you can worry about weeds (if you have any), dog spots, and striping your lawn. But if you are not doing these three things, they will be the first three things suggested for you to correct. Watering Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an hour in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. Do not spread this out and water for 10 minutes every day. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. If that does not work, then you might have to water more than once per week during the summer's hottest period. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds. You will have to learn to judge when to water your own lawn. If you live in Las Vegas your watering will be different than if you live in Vermont. Adjust your watering to your type of grass, humidity, wind, and soil type. It is worth noting that this technique is used successfully by professionals in Phoenix, so...just sayin.' The other factors make a difference. If you normally water 1 inch per week and you get 1/2 inch of rain, then adjust and water only 1/2 inch that week. Mowing Every week mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. However, bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses will become the most dense when they are mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. In fact there are special mowers that can mow these grasses down to 1/16 inch. Dense grass shades out weeds, keeps the soil cooler, and uses less water than thin grass. Tall grass can feed the deep roots you developed in #1 above. Tall grass does not grow faster than short grass nor does it look shaggy sooner. Once all your grass is at the same height, tall grass just looks plush. Fertilizing Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. Follow the directions on the bag and do not overdo it. Too little is better than too much. At this point you do not have to worry about weed and feed products - remember at this point you are just trying to grow grass, not perfect it. Besides once you are doing these three things correctly, your weed problems should go away without herbicide. If you are already on the organic band wagon, I suggest you read the modern approach to organic lawn care. Go to the Organic Gardening Form, find the FAQs, and scroll to the bottom of the list. Read that and save yourself some money. Now, what to do about the dandelions. Once you start mowing higher, you might find the dandelions will go away without doing anything else. I'm not sure why that happens but it happened to me in South Texas and it happened to a golf course manager north of Lake Erie. If you spray and kill the dandelions, you might get crabgrass move in to fill the bare spots. This is going to have to be your call. This will be your last season with weeds so you might be able to stick it out. This July is the end of your test to see if you are going to renovate in the fall. The work it takes to care for the lawn is easy, watering, mowing, and fertilizing. If you see the lawn improving under proper care, then maybe you do want to do a soil test and start tuning up the soil. The results can be spectacular if that is what you want. Then fall is the time to renovate. Start in August. I would suggest a blend of Kentucky bluegrass for sunny areas and mix some fescue for shady areas. Follow the basics above and by this time next year you will have a nice lawn again. It should not take 10 years.

Wow! Big difference with the photos! I agree, this forum lacks some features. Your lawn actually looks really nice, and it looks like it took the summer pretty decent other then the couple of dead spots. Those really shouldn't be a big deal to fix. Fertilizer from the seed super store is expensive. For your situation, almost anything will do. You could have the soil tested but it doesn't look worth it. To clarify on the aeration, I would recommend renting an aerator, and running it over the yard 3-4 times before overseeding, especially focusing on the dead areas. Before you do that cut the grass super short at roughly 1"-1.5" and bag it as well (this is part of the overseeding). Let me caution you that those aerators are extremely heavy and awkward. After seeing the larger pictures, don't till the dead patches up, there's enough good grass to save. If you really don't want to do the short mowing and aeration, I think you can probably skip it, and try it without. However, I think you will have best results if you do. You're right about the small lawn! That's smaller then I thought. 10lbs. would be an ample supply to you and your neighbor. :) Honestly, after seeing the larger pictures, every picture I see looks like you have fescue. It's too thick bladed for bluegrass. It is a short cut for fescue. Having it cut taller may help the water problems next year. Your yard looks like it's in pretty good condition. You can make seeding just as complicated or as simple as you please. It doesn't look to me like it needs tons of help to catch back up. If it were me, I would cut it short, aerate (I have an aerator, which makes it easier for me), seed (fescue), fertilize, then water, of course. Should take a morning, or less. Stick with it!

garydewater: That's about 1/2 the price as a new one and 135 hours is about 3 years of average homeowner use (about 40 - 50 hours/year). If it is in good condition and not been abused it sounds like a pretty good deal. You did not mention what year model it is. I have an acre and 1/4 myself and usually rack up about 40 - 50 hours/year depending on what projects I'm working on. I mow, dethatch, aerate, overseed, pull a cart loaded with rocks, firewood, etc... and mulch my leaves in the fall pulling a lawn sweeper to collect them. You can usually save a bunch of $$$ buying a good used quality tractor. Just make sure it has been well taken care of by the previous owner. If it looks rough it probably is rough. An engine coated in oil, grass clippings, etc..., faded paint, cracked seat and weathered plastic components typically indicate that it was left outside in the elements and not well cared for. Good luck!