I know I'm late to the discussion. Fipronil trench is a perfect solution to preventing termites from getting into your walls. It is a very labor intensive job, and a homeowner can accomplish this if dedicated to the job. In conjunction to this, exercise the bait stations in and around the perimeter of your house. You can also create your own termite killing bait stations. Get some pine garden stakes, a 5 gallon bucket. Mix a super concentrated solution of fipronil in some water, soak the garden stakes in the solution for several weeks, occasionally stir the solution with the stakes about every 2-3 days. Hammer stakes in the ground around your house. Termites cannot detect the fipronil, will eat on the stakes, bring the poison back to the colony and destroy the hive. Use the old solution of fipronil around dark damp areas surrounding your home to amend your barrier. Agee with other post; the chemical deterrent barriers simply don't work and the termites will find the area that is deficient in treatment, whereas the undetectable barrier is the Trojan horse. You can find this stuff on domyownpestcontrol.com or Amazon Love that website. BTW, I use Taurus SC as opposed the more expensive Termidor SC. Now, back to the question. How do I keep the termites out of my garden, and to stop eating away at the planter box. Here is my intentions. On the bottom of the planter, spread a grip load of diatomaceous earth down nice and even with special attention around the wood areas, lay a weed block barrier down. Apply a plastic barrier between the planter box and the garden dirt (stapled). Wet the planter box boards and rub diatomaceous earth (DE) on the boards (use rubber gloves), and as you work your way to the top of keep pouring DE between the plastic sheet and boards. Cover the top of the boards with the plastic sheet to the other side and down about an inch. The diatomaceous earth (if ingested by any bug, will rip their intestines apart and keep grub and termites from coming from the bottom of your planter). Not sure if this is going to work, but it is plausible in my mind. In one growing season, the termites have eaten about halfway through my pine 2x10's! Nasty critters.

As you can see there are many flavors of organic gardening. I was going to specifically agree and disagree with various comments but there are too many. Here's my idea of organic gardening. Grow plants that are adapted to your area. You can't grow cactus in Michigan or blueberries in Arizona. Grow plants in season. You can't grow coriander (cilantro) in the spring/summer or tomatoes in the winter. Never till the soil or dig any hole larger than needed to plant a seed or a plant. This applies to organic or chemical gardening, but it only really works with organic gardening. Organic gardening is all about developing a healthy soil to include healthy soil microbes (bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and microarthropods). Those critters need to eat food, so with that in mind, peatmoss and compost are not organic fertilizers. Fish meal (or hydrolysate or emulsion), seaweed, soybean meal, alfalfa pellets, used coffee grounds (free in bulk from Starbucks), blood meal, milk, corn meal, cottonseed meal, and any other ground up nut, bean, or seed are organic fertilizers. Peatmoss and compost have a place but don't expect them to perform like a real fertilizer. After a few years of soil building without doing anything destructive like tilling, you can probably use less of these fertilizers. In any case you can forget completely about NPK and 10-10-10 or whatever. All you need to pay attention to is protein content (is there or isn't there any?). Don't use insecticides for anything. If you leave the insects alone and build health into your soil and plants, the insects will take care of themselves. You should see more toads, lizards, wasps, and birds in the garden once you stop using insectides. Those are all predators that will help you to control your pests. Don't use chemical herbicides for anything. This requires you to keep after the weeds. Using mulch heavily helps a lot with weeds. Weeds are very easy to pull out of mulch. Certain plants (sometimes called weeds) can have beneficial effects. An ugly plant that happens to attract aphids, for example, will also attract a population of ladybugs to your garden if the aphids are left alone. Any population of ladybugs in the garden is a good thing.

Amy, I don't know what products at Lowe's you're referring to, so I cannot comment on them. Different Lowe's stores carry different items and the one closest to me doesn't carry very many organic products. With reference to the article you linked, I was just shocked to learn there were Amish farmers who were not organic. The ones whose writings I have read in the past were organic and I guess I just assumed all Amish farmers were organic. There long have been soil, water and forage labs who test for micronutrients and advice farmers and gardeners what they need to do to improve their soil and their crop based on the test results. The lab I'm most familiar with that has done this for decades is based in Texas. So, this article kinda reminded me there is nothing new under the sun.... However, if his consulting firm is able to introduce these old concepts to people who have previously focused only on N-P-K, then more power to them for achieving that. Until about the last 100 years or so, all gardening was more or less organic, and there was a focus on enriching the soil so it would have all kinds of nutrients in it. It only has been in the modern age that the heavy focus on N-P-K took over the conventional agricultural world, much to the detriment of the soil and, eventually, the food grown in it. I prefer to feed the soil by enriching it with many different things and then, instead of actually fertilizing plants, I just let the soil feed the plants. Overall, that works fairly well. However, for heavy bearers like tomato plants that produce heavy loads of fruit over a period of several months, I will do a supplemental feeding periodically if needed. When I do that, I tend to use an organic fertilizer from Espoma called Tomato-Tone for tomato plants and then I use their Plant-Tone for everything else. I do not like the newer formulation they've sold for a few years now as much as I liked the older ones, but I use them anyway. Sometimes I just feed the plants with compost tea, manure tea or alfalfa tea. The land we live on now was once part of a farm. Then, later on, the land was just left fallow and a few cows grazed on it on and off for a decade or more. Our soil was very depleted nutritionally, and mostly it consisted either of a sandy/silty blend that had no organic matter and very few nutrients in it. The first few years, nothing could survive the summer in that soil because it drained too quickly. The other soil was dense, red clay that was highly compacted. You couldn't even break it up with hand tools (we broke lots of tools trying) and even a sturdy, rear-tine tiller struggled just to barely break the surface of the soil. The red clay was rich in some minerals, but had no organic matter whatsoever. In order to turn both of these types of soil into rich, fertile soil, I had to do heavy amending for years and years. For me, it wasn't about just putting N, P and K into the soil---it was about turning depleted, dead, fairly sterile dirt into a rich, healthy soil teeming with nutrients and microbes. To do that, a person has to have some idea of what plants need to grow. There are a lot of essential elements that plants need in order to grow and produce. Three of them are mostly supplied by the air and water---they are carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. The oxygen is more important than most people think. Plant roots don't actually grow in the soil. Technically they grow in the air space between pores of soil. This is when we work hard to turn dense, compacted soil into fluffy soil. It is fluffy partly because of the air space between soil, mineral and organic matter particles. If soil is dense and compacted, plants cannot get as much oxygen as they need to stay healthy. Then, there's the 3 macronutrients or primary nutrients, that, unfortunately, are focused on almost too much in agriculture nowadays. They are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The next three most important nutrients are calcium, magnesium and sulfur. We hear people talk about their soil's N-P-K all the time, but when is the last time you heard anyone discuss their soil's calcium, sulfur or magnesium levels? The remaining nutrients are often referred to as micronutrients or trace elements. They are boron, chlorine, cobalt, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, nickle, sodium and zinc. These are only needed in small amounts, but each has a role to play soil health and in the health of plants grown in the soil. Now, here is where it gets messy---if you add too much of any nutrient, whether it is a primary, secondary or trace nutrient, the excess of that nutrient can prevent any or all of the other nutrients from performing properly. So, I don't try to add a certain amount of cobalt or iron or boron or whatever. I try to add a variety of organic matter and products that will combine with one another to create living, healthy soil with a wide array of all the nutrients needed. If I do that, the microbes that live in the soil will do the rest in concert with the sunshine, water, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. The plant roots will take up the nutrients they need, and the plants will be healthy. Healthy plants are happy plants, and happy plants can tolerate a lot of adverse conditions, including extreme heat, extreme drought, many diseases and the annual onslaught of pests. When we first broke ground, I added a lot of "stuff" to the soil, particularly compost (I even moved my finished and half-finished compost from my pile in Fort Worth here to our new place...there was no way I was leaving my compost pile behind), composted animal manure, mushroom compost, pine bark fines, peat moss (it is acidic and my soil is highly alkaline, so that was a very deliberate choice I made at that time), green sand, lava sand, bone meal, blood meal, kelp, dried molasses, and soft rock phosphate. The garden started small, and I couldn't even do all the amending needed in the 1st, 2nd or 3rd year. I just had to keep amending the same beds every year, over and over and over. One reason for that is the basic "heat eats compost" concept, which refers to the fact that in hot climates, all the organic matter you add to your soil decomposes very rapidly. Thus, you almost cannot add too much in our climate, and you cannot just amend the soil once and then never do it again because everything you add decomposes and gets used up by the plants. After we'd been here 6-8 years, I felt like I was seeing real progress in the oldest beds, but the newer ones still needed a lot of work. I also was shocked by how quickly everything I added to the beds decomposed. I quickly figured out I had to add vast quantities annually, and so I do. After about 10 years, all the earliest beds we built finally had turned from red clay to a medium-brown, humusy soil filled with all sorts of life, including microbes needed to help break down the nutrients into components the roots can absorb and use. At that point, I started double digging the beds. Usually I double dig one long raised bed per year. Most of my long raised beds are 4' wide and 35-50' long depending on where they are, so double digging even one of those by hand in order to work more organic matter into the deeper layers of the soil takes me forever. The doubledug beds are highly productive. Now that voles have become a problem, I hope to double dig 2 or 3 beds per winter, line them with hardware cloth to exclude the voles, and amend that soil. Even if I do it at that rate, it will take me 5-7 years just to do all the raised beds....but eventually I'll get them done. Once they are double dug and lined with hardware cloth, I'll never double dig them or rototill them again. I'll just add all the nutrients to the top of the beds and let rain, digging and planting with a hand trowel, and soil-dwelling critters like earthworms carry the nutrients deeper down into the beds. The best beds in our garden are the ones we dug and enriched in 1999. Newer beds that weren't dug and enriched until 2003 or 2005 or 2008 are not in as good of a condition, but I'll just keep plugging away, continually improving all of them until they all really and truly have healthy, balanced soil. When you are growing plants in healthy soil, that doesn't mean your plants will not have pest problems or that they won't have disease issues. My plants have pest and disease issues pop up all the time. The difference, though, is that healthy plants in healthy, well-balanced soil are able to resist or tolerate the damage from diseases and pests and will grow and produce well despite them. So, even though there are times when I think the plants in my garden might look like crap because of disease and pest damage, the bottom line is that they don't die---they keep on growing and producing, and they produce huge harvests, which is why I am always so stressed during harvest time, trying to harvest and preserve everything the garden produces beyond the amount we can eat fresh. It is pretty common knowledge that you can add nitrogen to your garden beds via compost, composted manure, urea, dried blood or blood meal, and products like cottonseed meal. It is easy to add phosphorus by adding bone meal or rock powders, rock dust, or soft rock phosphate. You can add potash via muriate of potash or greensand. What is less well known is how in the world a person adds all those micronutrients. Do you go out and buy iron, copper, cobalt or zinc? How? In what form? With most of them, you can add them to the soil just by adding manure (boron, chlorine, copper, iron, manganese), cottonseed meal (cobalt, iron, zinc), greensand (chlorine, cobalt, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, nickle, sodium and zinc), bone meal (boron, sodium), kelp meal (cobalt, sodium). You don't have to add them often and you don't want to add too much. Remember that too much of any one nutrient can interfere in the way all the other elements are taken up and used (or not taken up and used). I wrote that last paragraph from the viewpoint of a gardener with very alkaline soil. Since it is so alkaline, I never add lime to it. However, gardeners with acidic soil can add garden lime to their soil as it contains magnesium, calcium, and molybdenum. What do all those nutrients do? Nitrogen is essential for vigorous growth and deep green foliage. Phosphorus is essential for proper root development and flowering. Potassium plays a very important role in your plants' ability to resist or tolerate diseases and also is important in plant hardiness. Calcium contributes to plant vigor and assists in the uptake of other nutrients. Sulfur is important for proper plant color and seed production. Magnesium plays a key role in a plant's production of chlorophyll. All those trace nutrients that plants need only in small amounts are important in their own way as well. For example, boron is essential for proper flowering and for the proper development of fruit. Chlorine plays an important role in the way that the plants deal with moisture stress as it controls water loss. Cobalt is important for general plant growth and for plant transpiration. Manganese and iron are essential in the production/use of chlorophyll, so plants lacking in them are often off-color. Nickle, molybdenum and zinc play a role in a plant's enzyme system, being key to both the development of plant enzymes and the way the enzymes work. Sodium is important for photosynthesis. Often, the only clue you have that one of those micronutrients is lacking is that a plant fails in some way---it is off-color, or has poor disease or pest tolerance, or produces foliage but stubbornly refuses to properly produce flowers or fruit. There are some photos online and in books that show the effects of a lack of various micronutrients. Without soil tests that test your micronutrient levels, it can be hard to know what to add. Our soil was so poor when we moved here, that I resolved to add everything in the beginning. The easiest way since then is to merely compost every bit of organic matter I can and then to return that compost to the soil every year. I don't only compost all the weeds and spent plant parts, but also grass clippings and chopped/shredded autumn leaves. I can look at any given raised bed in my veggie garden and tell by its production in a give year if that soil remains nutritionally balanced and complete. If the plants in a given area seem to struggle more than other plants nearby, I make a note to myself to give that bed extra soil amendments after the growing season has ended. Your plants will tell you what is wrong with the soil they're growing in if you pay attention and listen to them. When we moved here, what we had wasn't even soil. It was too depleted of organic matter and soil life to be considered soil. Now, after 15 years of amending, most of it is great soil. It has turned from light brown in the sandy/silty areas to a rich medium brown. In the red clay areas, it has turned from deep, dark red to a light to medium brown with no sign of red until you dig down maybe 8 to 10 to 12". That is how I actually judge the progress made in the garden----not by what it produces, but rather by what the soil looks like. I am very careful not to do anything to harm the microbes in my soil. I want to have garden beds that are teeming with life. People who farm conventionally using synthetic products tend to have soil void of microorganisms because the products they use tend to kill them. Organic gardeners, by contrast, have soil that is full of all kinds of organisms---both micro and macro. The microorganisms are the microscopic plants and animals that live in healthy soil and play a role in breaking down plant nutrients into a usable form. First they break down the organic matter into humus. Then, they further break it down into humates and then into elements. This entire process is the process of mineralization. The reason you constantly add organic matter to your soil is so mineralization remains an ongoing operation. In order for your microbes to stay alive and functioning, they have to stay busy. Even one single tablespoon of healthy, humus-rich soil can contain up to 50 billion microbes. They include fungi, bacteria, nematodes, protozoa, algae, and actinomycetes. All these microbes work hand in hand to ensure your plant roots have lots of good stuff to take up and feed off of. When someone gardens synthetically and doesn't put organic matter back into the soil, it tends to be low in microorganisms because there's nothing for them to live on. You also have some soil-dwelling macroorganisms like earthworms, snails, slugs, termites, ants, worms, spiders, mites, beetles, grubs and other insect larvae. They help loosen the soil by burrowing or digging their way through it. They are a lot more than the few I mentioned, including sow bugs, pill bugs, springtails, scorpions and centipedes. All of your macroorganisms and microorganisms play a role in good soil health. So.....when a person who is a new visitor to my garden and asks what I feed the plants to make them grow and produce like that, I never know what to say. I know they want a quick and easy N-P-K type answer, which is the one thing I cannot give them. I try to explain everything I just typed in this post, but few people standing there in a garden in the sun really want to hear that much detail or want to do that much work.....and that is why people rely on N-P-K fertilization. Think of synthetic NPK fertilizers as fast food for plants. Well, I don't want to grow our fruit, veggies, herbs and flowers on a fast food diet, so I feed them the slow food diet rich in many kinds of nutrients---macro and micro, or primary, secondary and trace. Texas organic gardening guru J. Howard Garrett had a statement in one of his books that I read in the early to mid-2000s that has stuck with me to this day. He said that when you raise your plants with only N-P-K, it is the equivalent of raising your children on a diet of only white bread. I didn't raise my son on a diet of white bread, and I refuse to raise a garden that is fed only N-P-K. For each of us, the statement "you are what you eat" applies. We have to take it even further, though, and understand that when we eat, we are eating whatever our food once ate....whether it was a cow raised on pasture grass or grain, or plants that were raised on synthetic fertilizers or on organic matter full of many kinds of nutrients. I am passionate about composting everything I can and returning that compost to the soil. For example, a family member will try to throw away a cardboard box and I'll go grab that box and stash it away to use in the garden. At our place, I think of cardboard as "earthworm starter". I can dig in a new area and find few to no earthworms, all I have to do is lay cardboard down on the ground and pile any sort of organic matter on top of it---compost, chopped/shredded leaves, spoiled hay, etc. If I come back in a couple of weeks, there will be a few earthworms underneath that cardboard. If I come back in a few months there will be lots of earthworms and no cardboard (because they gobbled it up). That is the easiest way to improve soil that I've ever found, and it is "no till", too. Finally, in our early years, when the soil had not yet become highly improved, we had so many disease issues-----fusarium, cotton root rot (which can kill several thousand different kinds of plants, not just cotton), southern blight,......I could go on and on. As the soil got healthier, the diseases pretty much vanished, or at least they stopped killing my plants for the most part. I'll still see the common airborne stuff like powdery mildew or early blight (which also can be soilborne) from time to time, but rarely at a level that kills the plants. I didn't need a soil test to tell me when I finally got the soil to the state where it was just right----the performance of the plants and their health told me all by themselves. There are products you can buy that contain various microorganisms. The Espoma line of plant foods contains some of the beneficial microbes. However, I put them in my garden just by feeding it lots of compost and other organic matter to eat. If there is stuff there in the soil for the microbes to eat, they will come to your soil and eat it, and they will thrive and reproduce as long as you have stuff there for them to feed upon. Dawn

Try a search for "CO oraganic soil" and also Craigs List which currently has about 5 free offers. For free you could rent a truck at $19 and come out well on the cost side. The other option is to fill those planters with leaves, grasses, newspaper and start again for next spring. Perhaps take the plants you have now and put them in pots for this year, if it is early for some cover them with milk bottles or large baggies with holes. We still have 3 weeks for planting most of our veggies. Gardening takes time, we all need the patience for nature to take it's course. Even planning ahead can find nature changing it's direction. If I could have my whole yard done this year it would be wonderful, but reality is this won't happen.....so I remind myself that patience is at the head of the list. Link below is a nursery that carries organic. Also try calling every nursery around...takes time, but can be worth it. There are a number of nurseries listed in RMG. Tagawas would definitely have organic and is close to you. Here is a link that might be useful: Oraganic soil