All in one preventative spray?
robwas
11 years ago
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jean001a
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Intensive preventative sprays
Comments (18)Don't know if our definitions of "intensive" would agree but, as to pre-emptive spraying it is wise to know if you have at least the possibility of a problem before trying to "fix" it. My peach tree gave me 7 years of big, wonderful crops free of any OFM damage until this year which is a big, stinking mess. I've never sprayed for OFM before but will now control it to the best of my ability with the least spraying possible with good timing and the best selection of insecticides and spray equipment and doing the sprays well. This Spring I was too lazy about nailing the CAR on a timely basis due to the extremely low number of galls on the Cedars within miles of my apple trees due to 2 years of drought (lucky Cedar trees). The apple trees do have sign of CAR infection but, I've seen much worse in pictures. Even though Myclobutanil has 24 hr. kickback, my protectant I tank mix with it doesn't so I have to apply it ahead of the Gall eruptions making those sprays necessarily pre-emptive. Good luck and best wishes....See MoreSpraying water prevents plants from freezing
Comments (1)River, I know this works for fruit trees at certain temperatures. I'm not so sure about how the spraying water routine works on more tender plants like tomatoes and peppers. It is all dependent on how cold the air is, how long it stays cold, how fragile and tender the foliage is on your plants, etc. Some people swear by this technique, but I've never tried it on vegetable plants. I have used it successfully on fruit trees when the temps were only a little below freezing, about 28 to 30 degrees. I always cover my peppers and tomatoes with buckets if a freeze threatens. If I have time, I mulch the ground around the plants with hay or leaves. If I have lots and lots of time (hoping to do this tomorrow), I cover the tomato cages with plastic, thus creating a mini-greenhouse effect. If snow is forecast, I take every spare sheet, blanket, sleeping bag and table cloth in the house and throw those over the plastic that covers the cages. If you have floating row covers, some of them (the heaviest ones, usually advertised as 'Frost Blankets') provide freeze protection down into the mid to upper 20s, I think. Well-watered plants survive cold spells better, so most of us are in good shape there thanks to recent rains. I hope your plants survive. The addition of the word 'snow' to the forecast is freaking out a lot of gardeners here in Oklahoma, and in Texas too. Keeping my fingers crossed for all of us and our plants.... Dawn...See Morepreventative spraying
Comments (3)Fungal diseases such as early blight caused by A. solani require very different treatments than do bacterial diseases such as speck and spot. Fungal diseases are best prevented since the fungus is also airborne rather than treated after the fact and Daconil and similar products are the most commonly recommended preventative spray. Several studies show it to be the most effective since it lays down a protective coating on the sprayed surfaces thus preventing the fungus from taking up root (so to speak ;). And many have discussed it's effectiveness here in that past as you already know. Copper based fungicides are more for control of fungal problems rather than prevention IMO because the copper is toxic to the existing fungi (as well as some bacteria). And because the copper can also kill the plant tissue, and thus the plant, they carry a greater risk and require more care in use than does Daconil. Plus some studies now show copper-tolerant bacteria have evolved due to its many years of use. So, unless one is opposed to the use of synthetic chems which I assume you aren't, the Daconil will be much more effective in preventing the fugal problems without risk to the plants (assuming proper application instructions are followed). Bacterial problems have alternatives to copper products for control. The article from Ohio State linked below breaks down the differences between several different products on the market so you might want to review it for more details. Hope this is of help. Here is a link that might be useful: Controlling Diseases...See MorePreventative Spraying....What to use.
Comments (16)If you are looking to go a different route, using beneficial microbes can help to boost a plants natural defenses. Mycorrhizal fungi can help a plant to fight off fungal diseases, while other fungi release toxins which help to destroy bacterial diseases. You can get one bottle of a root growth "innoculant" at many specialty plant stores (try a hydroponic store if you cant find this) which will contain 30-50 different beneficial microbes. The downside to using these (if you want to call it that) is that you have to dechlorinate your water before using it to water your plants or else it will kill the microbes present. All of these are naturally present in the ground in places where there has not been chlorinated water poured on the ground to water it, and plants of all sorts will benefit from adding them. Using dechlorinated water will allow you to also use other biological control methods such as Bacillus thurgenesis. This bacteria lives in the soil and can infect the larval form of mosquitoes and fungus gnats, and will kill them before they can become adults. Also, you can use nematodes (microscopic worms) to control any pest which spends part of its life cycle in the ground. These little worms are applied through watering, and will begin to seek out intruders immediately. They will reproduce inside their hosts, leading to lasting protection. From a nutrient standpoint, you can use silica to decrease the plants' susceptibility to a number of diseases, as well as to increase their overall strength. This results in larger plants, stronger stems, and less damage from insects. It is not an organic additive as it is extracted by chemical means,but I cannot find any problems with it so far. If you have a pest problem and cannot get rid of it, or are looking for a preventative pesticide, use neem oil or pyrethrin spray. These are both pesticides which come from plant sources, so they break down in a matter of weeks. Neem oil can even be poured into the ground, where plants will absorb it and it will become effective throughout the entire plant. This keep pests from even wanting to feed on the leaves of treated plants. The bad part is, these also affect the good bugs when they are sprayed on the leaves, so try not to use them unless you cannot solve it through other means. There are lots of organic means of pest control which do not wipe out the local pollinators and pest control bugs (ladybugs, parasitic wasps, beetles, praying mantis, bees, etc) These can be even more effective than taking the "easy" route and just spraying to kill everything....See MoreUser
11 years agoKimmsr
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11 years agowoohooman San Diego CA zone 10a
11 years agoTheMasterGardener1
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11 years agowoohooman San Diego CA zone 10a
11 years agoTheMasterGardener1
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11 years agoKimmsr
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11 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
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