you need to ask in the tractors forum, include what model 'bota you are going to use.

I think Weed B Gone is a brand name broadleaf weed killer. If I remember correctly, its main ingredient is 2,4 D, but I haven't used it in a long time and newer versions may have different ingredients. You'll probably find other similar items near that, and some will likely be generic or store brands, so they'll probably cost less. There may be some differences that can cause some to be more effective than others, either in the percentage of active ingredients or in the inert ingredients (some of the inert ingredients may have a purpose, such as helping it stick to the leaf or spread more evenly over the leaf). If you've already got the weed and feed and the weeds are really everywhere, it may make sense to go ahead and use it, but if you haven't bought it yet, I'd go the route of a separate application for the fertilizer and the weed killer.

Spectracide Weed Stop is a common broadleaf plant killer containing 2,4,D, Dicambra, and something else that does not come to mind right off. While it is not a really good product to use and while it can also kill plants you want to keep if due care in use is not observed, it is not quite as bad as some others mainly becasue the formulation is not really very strong. It is not quite as bad as maifleur makes the stuff out to be, and the manufacturer will simply tell you there is no problem. The most bestest way to control "weeds" in your lawn is to get that lawn into a good, healthy condition and that starts with a good, reliable soil test. Contact your counties office of your Colorado State University Cooperative Extension Service about having that done and also dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. which can guide you toward a good, healthy soil that will grow a good, healthy lawn that will crowd out "weed" growth so you don't need those poisons. Here is a link that might be useful: CSU CES

Noobs generally are off by several months in timing their lawn projects. Most are off by 6 months, so you're way ahead of the game. You're just off by 2 months. There is a thing called frost seeding where you put the seed down after there is absolutely no chance of any of it germinating this season. Usually that is December of January. That seed will germinate early in the spring and give you a half a shot at having a lawn last longer than July. Most spring seeded lawns die out from the summer heat leaving behind crabgrass...and the weeds you already have. That's why darktower suggested waiting until August. You might be able to kill off your weeds with a spray using Weed-B-Gone Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis killer. It's a stronger formula than the traditional WBG. If you have grass still in there the WBGCCO should leave it alone. Since you're a noob, here's the 1-2-3 of lawn care as I have put it together after many years reading many forums. Basics of Lawn Care After reading numerous books and magazines on lawn care, caring for lawns at seven houses in my life, and reading numerous forums where real people write in to discuss their successes and failures, I have decided to side with the real people and dispense with the book and magazine authors. I don't know what star their planet rotates around but it's not mine. With that in mind, here is the collected wisdom of the Internet savvy homeowners and lawn care professionals summarized in a few words. If you follow the advice here you will have conquered at least 50% of all lawn problems. Once you have these three elements mastered, then you can worry about weeds (if you have any), dog spots, and striping your lawn. But if you are not doing these three things, they will be the first three things suggested for you to correct. 1. Watering Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an inch in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. Do not spread this out and water for 10 minutes every day. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. If that does not work, then you might have to water more than once per week during the summer's hottest period. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds. You will have to learn to judge when to water your own lawn. If you live in El Paso your watering will be different than if you live in Vermont. Adjust your watering to your type of grass, temperature, humidity, wind, and soil type. It is worth noting that this technique is used successfully by professionals in Phoenix, so...just sayin.' The other factors make a difference. If you normally water 1 inch per week and you get 1/2 inch of rain, then adjust and water only 1/2 inch that week. 2. Mowing Every week mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. However, bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses will become the most dense when they are mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. In fact there are special mowers that can mow these grasses down to 1/16 inch. Dense grass shades out weeds, keeps the soil cooler, and uses less water than thin grass. Tall grass can feed the deep roots you developed in #1 above. Tall grass does not grow faster than short grass nor does it look shaggy sooner. Once all your grass is at the same height, tall grass just looks plush. 3. Fertilizing Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. Follow the directions on the bag and do not overdo it (unless you use organics in which case you may overdo it without fear of hurting anything). At this point you do not have to worry about weed and feed products - remember at this point you are just trying to grow grass, not perfect it. Besides once you are doing these three things correctly, your weed problems should go away without herbicide.