How big is your lawn? By the looks of it, I would nuke all of it and reseed. But I won't do it now. Fall is the best time to reseed your lawn (Sept 1 +/- 1 week). You need to buy quality seeds but you need to have a very good lawn watering habit for the grass seed to flourish. It needs at least an inch of water per week. Your lawn looks like it has been water starved imo. If you are looking on the best seeds for you location, try this site and use the seedexpress. They have quality seeds but it comes with a price.

We need more information. Have you taken soil samples and submitted them for analysis? Where are you located? What type of soil do you have? What have you applied to the grass this year so far, if anything? Fertilizer, herbicide, etc. What did your lawn look like at the end of last year? What has the weather been like in the past month? How much rainfall have you had in the past month? Porvide us with as much information as possible. I suspect that the zoysia just needs more time to green-up, as it is slow to develop in the spring. When you hit those 90 degree temps, it will take off and be fully green if it has been cared for properly.

> Gary--are you using a mulching more or a regular mower? Yes, a mulching rear bagger with a spring loaded flipper. Another reason I do not mulch is that I have Merion Bluegrass. It is so easily diseased, I need to remove (sick) clippings. Merion is also prone to thatch simply because of the very high nitrogen it requires too.(@ 6lbs X 1000ft2 each year) It's a catch 22. Personally, I think my self-propelled mower travels too fast to mulch properly. Merion is so thick, that before the blades can get mulched fine, the machine is chomping forward for more. If I disengage the self propel, I do get my work out, making my doctor happy I guess! I was considering trying a Gator blade. Maybe then, my mulching would look better, but I'd still be contending with disease. Bestlawn will probably suggest that R word for my Merion :-)

Um...wow. Er...I can honestly say I'm not a hundred percent certain of my read in this case as this is rather a unique situation. I'll do my best. I've gone very low on most applications, lower than the numbers suggest. Get another soil test in a year and we'll tap it gently along again at that point. EC 2.6: Large-grained sand, with almost no resource holding capacity. This soil--if you can call it soil--will change at incredible speed, lose resources at the drop of a hat (any hat), and changes on a dime. Yearly soil testing is going to be recommended here. This is the lowest EC I've ever seen. pH 6.6: Actually, this isn't bad. Because of the very limited EC, I'm actually going to tap it up a bit, but I'm going to try to limit how far it goes. OM 0.95%: So far into the Poor range that I'd actually just call this Dreadful. In this instance, always mulch mow. Mow all fall leaves. Take everybody else's leaves. Feed organically whenever you can with whatever you can, down to and including the coffee grounds from your morning coffee. This soil will benefit from anything you can give it. Raising OM will increase water retention and raise the EC of the soil. Sulfur 10: Within normal range, with good margin, some of which I'm going to use. Phosphorus 85: Low, but not terrible. I've recommended starter fertilizer below. Just buy the cheapest. Target here will be around 200. Calcium 71.6%: A very good answer. I suspect that you have a high calcium soil to begin with, so hopefully this won't drift too quickly. Magnesium 11.8%: While technically OK, the soil bank is a little low on Mg. But I also don't want to push it too much. You'll need a bag of Epsom salt, available at any drug store in the First Aid or bath section. Potassium 3.7%: Ditto with magnesium. You'll need potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash), which most landscape places and garden stores can order for you, or it's available online. Minor Elements: Zinc, copper, iron, and boron are all off, but with the adjustments going this year, I'm forced to ignore copper and zinc. I'd ignore boron as well, but I can't--it's deficient. Boron <0.2: We use Milorganite as a carrier and 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 10 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax. Iron 69: Low, although not exactly my biggest concern on this test. Still, any time you want, apply bag rate of Milorganite to the lawn, which will slowly improve both the iron levels and the organic matter levels. The boron amount is only to be used in the Milo once, on or around June 15th. Recommendations: June 1: Feed with starter fertilizer at bag rate. June 15: Apply 1 pound of Epsom salt per thousand square feet. Apply 4 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax per thousand square feet in a Milorganite carrier. July 1: Feed with starter fertilizer at bag rate. July 15: Apply 1 pound of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. August 1: Feed with starter fertilizer at bag rate. September 1: Feed with starter fertilizer at bag rate. September 15: Apply 1 pound of Epsom salt per thousand square feet. October 1: Apply 1 pound of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.