Just out of curiosity, would you characterize your soil as sand or rubble?

sand

Um...wow. Er...I can honestly say I'm not a hundred percent certain of my read in this case as this is rather a unique situation. I'll do my best.

I've gone very low on most applications, lower than the numbers suggest. Get another soil test in a year and we'll tap it gently along again at that point.

EC 2.6: Large-grained sand, with almost no resource holding capacity. This soil--if you can call it soil--will change at incredible speed, lose resources at the drop of a hat (any hat), and changes on a dime. Yearly soil testing is going to be recommended here. This is the lowest EC I've ever seen.

pH 6.6: Actually, this isn't bad. Because of the very limited EC, I'm actually going to tap it up a bit, but I'm going to try to limit how far it goes.

OM 0.95%: So far into the Poor range that I'd actually just call this Dreadful. In this instance, always mulch mow. Mow all fall leaves. Take everybody else's leaves. Feed organically whenever you can with whatever you can, down to and including the coffee grounds from your morning coffee. This soil will benefit from anything you can give it. Raising OM will increase water retention and raise the EC of the soil.

Sulfur 10: Within normal range, with good margin, some of which I'm going to use.

Phosphorus 85: Low, but not terrible. I've recommended starter fertilizer below. Just buy the cheapest. Target here will be around 200.

Calcium 71.6%: A very good answer. I suspect that you have a high calcium soil to begin with, so hopefully this won't drift too quickly.

Magnesium 11.8%: While technically OK, the soil bank is a little low on Mg. But I also don't want to push it too much. You'll need a bag of Epsom salt, available at any drug store in the First Aid or bath section.

Potassium 3.7%: Ditto with magnesium. You'll need potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash), which most landscape places and garden stores can order for you, or it's available online.

Minor Elements: Zinc, copper, iron, and boron are all off, but with the adjustments going this year, I'm forced to ignore copper and zinc. I'd ignore boron as well, but I can't--it's deficient.

Boron <0.2: We use Milorganite as a carrier and 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 10 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax.

Iron 69: Low, although not exactly my biggest concern on this test. Still, any time you want, apply bag rate of Milorganite to the lawn, which will slowly improve both the iron levels and the organic matter levels. The boron amount is only to be used in the Milo once, on or around June 15th.

Recommendations:

June 1: Feed with starter fertilizer at bag rate.

June 15: Apply 1 pound of Epsom salt per thousand square feet. Apply 4 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax per thousand square feet in a Milorganite carrier.

July 1: Feed with starter fertilizer at bag rate.

July 15: Apply 1 pound of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

August 1: Feed with starter fertilizer at bag rate.

September 1: Feed with starter fertilizer at bag rate.

September 15: Apply 1 pound of Epsom salt per thousand square feet.

October 1: Apply 1 pound of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

Thank you for your recommendation! I have a couple of questions though, first you call for a starter fertilizer in the first of June but don't specify which N-P-K to use. Do i need a 1-2-3, 1-2-1, or a 3-2-1 ratio? Secondly you don't list the use of nitrogen to be used every 30-45 days during the growing season or is this a substitute for one of the recommendations you gave me. I have been mulch mowing but i still have a thatch layer in areas of the yard that is looks like it is not allowing grass to grow. could I go ahead and use a verticutter and use a core aerator followed by the starter fertilizer for this?

Any starter fertilizer is actually going to be just fine, with bag numbers of 18-24-6 or 20-27-5 or anything in that approximate range. The application rate on the bag will make sure that about a pound of phosphorus goes down, and about 0.8 pounds of N. Give or take some; the actual amounts of both can vary a bit and not matter, as P soil binds strongly and there's a wide window of acceptable values.

For the months without starter, go ahead and use a high-nitrogen feeding of your choice. For the months with starter, it'll supply enough nitrogen for the lawn with no problems.

If your thatch layer is smaller than half an inch, ignore it, it's not doing any harm (and actually serves to protect the crowns of the grass a bit). Increasing organics, which can be added at any time in the schedule above, will tend to consume the thatch.

For areas where it's much thicker, you can dethatch if you want. Skip the core aeration, though, you don't need it on that soil--although the shampoo method we discuss all over the place here will still come in handy.

I have Kentucky bluegrass, the second most thatchy grass (the first being Zoysia). With zero thatch due to the organics. Once the system gets up to speed, thatch simply gets consumed.

Pertaining to the thatch, how high/low do you mow and how often?
What has been your watering regimen (how long and how often)?
How much of your lawn is shady and does it seem to be the same areas where the thatch is?

I mow at 1 1/4" with a rotary mower once a week. I water once a week with 1" of water and watering times can vary depending on the particular zone but the average is about 1.5 hours per zone. yard is mostly full sun with some spots getting shade. I would say some of the more shadier areas get a little more thatch than the full sun area.

With that maintenance plan I'm surprised you have any thatch at all.

well back in April I brought the yard down from about 2.25" down to just over one inch and removed over 20 35 gal bags of grass. Im pretty sure i probably stunted the yard doing this because it has been a little slow greening up but is heading in the right direction. I'll try to get some pictures up soon.