I think you need a little more detailed plan. First thing to do, and you should do it now, is get a soil test. That will take about a week. Once you have that in hand you can add amendments to get your soil in the best shape you can. It's not a bad idea to get rid of as many weeds as you can too since they can drop seeds that you don't want popping up in your new lawn. After you kill everything (I hear killing Bermuda is not the easiest thing in the world) you should scalp the dead stuff with a mower. Cut it as low as you can and use the bag attachment to collect it. Now fescue likes loose soil, but tilling will make your yard lumpy and uneven if you don't follow it up with a grading and rolling, so what I like to do is a core aeration, followed by a power raking. Then a manual raking would be good to get any of the remaining dead stuff up. I have never used a slit seeder, but from what I have read and heard they don't work all that well, and if you are using a bunch type grass like TTTF the results can be patchy. Use a broadcast spreader, it's faster, easier, and more uniform. It's very important to use the proper seeding rate. Most fescue is 8-12 lbs per 1000 square feet. Don't think more is better. More equals problems. I would stay right in the middle of the range, that way a little too much or too little will still be in range. Also when you spread seed, split the total amount in half, half the spreader setting and spread twice by going in two directions (north-south, east-west). Once your seed is down, use a water filled roller to compact the seed into the soil. Now, I like to topdress, usually with a topsoil/peatmoss mix. It gives better soil contact, keeps the seeds moist better, and the birds can't see your seed. It's not essential but I find it gives better germination. If you topdress don't overdo it, just enough so you can't see the seed. 1/8-1/4". Then I like to put starter fertilizer on top at half the recommended rate. After all that you have to keep it moist, constantly, if it dries out then you have to reseed. So light watering 5-10 minutes, three times a day usually works for most people. TTTF takes about a week to germinate, but you need to continue watering, albeit less and less as time goes on. Once it hits three inches you can mow it down to two. After the second mowing I like to add the other half of the starter fertilizer. In regards to the seed you use, Lesco brands are ok, but you can do a lot better. Check the NTEP trials to see which TTTF does best in your area (http://www.ntep.org/data/tf06/tf06_09-9/tf06_09-9.pdf). It might be a good idea to select three cultivars, and ones that are brown patch resistant is not a bad idea in North Carolina.

"Now my lawn doesn't look that bad but because of the different grass types the growth of each type is all over the place making my lawn uneven." Fernalfer, that's exactly the reason you want start over. There are often other reasons, but yours is one prime example. It diminishes turf quality (appearance) and often requires mowing more often to maintain uniformity. Third week of August is too late. You want to allow 2 or 3 weeks for additional spraying. 1st week - spray, 2nd week - spray again. There might have to be a third week for a third application. That "R" word stuff is the only herbicide you can use and seeds right afterward. Others will not allow seeding for several weeks following application. If you don't want to use herbicide at all, there are a couple more options. Vinegar/water solution acts as an organic non-selective herbicide like that "R" word stuff. It also will require several applications for a complete kill. You can rent a sod cutter. It's more work and more expensive but sure is faster rather than repeated herbicide applications and waiting 2-3 weeks before seeding can take place. You can try smothering the grass by covering it with black (or dark colored) plastic to solarize and deny sunlight. This will also take several weeks and you'd have to lay the plastic very soon, but it's cheaper than a sod cutter. Yep, you want to take care and do everything right as best you can. Cutting cost doesn't factor into the equation unfortunately. I, at least, cannot suggest short cuts, as fault for anything less than success could easily be directed at me. Besides that, it's not in your best interest. Peat moss (Canadian Sphagnum) is my personal favorite growing medium. However, it is a lot more expensive than compost, which is also excellent and a great soil amendment. Please forgive if I don't enumerate all the steps and methods right at the moment. I'll post a new thread on the subject tomorrow and others will chime in with their advice also, so you'll get a complete rundown of your options. In the meanwhile, there are several threads already on the first 2 or 3 pages of the board that are extremely helpful. I am interpreting "50-60 sunlight" to mean your grass around the trees does receive at least 4-6 hours of sunlight, right? If I'm right, my suggestion to Vkolte01 above will work fine for you also. If I'm wrong, please inform. Please let us know if we can help with anything else.

Received my soil labs from Logan Labs today. Any help with remediation's would be appreciated. Thank you all!

Spring seedings are fraught with problems. It's hard to get the seedlings through the first summer without dying. However, if you're willing to water, at least you can have something this summer, just plan on reseeding in late summer/very early fall again. Reseeding is best done when night-time temperatures just start to fall off their highs and you think, "Hum, summer's starting to end." For me, that's August 15 or so. For you, it should be August 1-August 15. 1) To clear the deck, Round Up. But never rototill. You'll create bumpy soil with destroyed water channels and damaged biology. These things can take years to correct themselves. Fill low points with soil if you have to. Seeds are very good at driving roots into soils we'd consider very hard. 2) Apply Grub-X in May. Since you really don't want to rototill, it won't be an issue. If I were you? I'd soil test now through Logan Labs, spend late spring and summer correcting the soil to make a good base for your lawn, then seed in fall. If you're not worrying about the existing lawn, I can recommend soil corrections (if necessary) that would damage an established, desired lawn. Just doing that will actually improve the look of what you have (even at the higher level, I can't damage the soil biology, so the lawn tends to improve somewhat). Then, around July 1, Round Up the whole mess. Water regularly and then Round Up again on July 15 to get the newly-sprouted weeds. Maybe repeat a third time around July 22-July 29 depending on when you think you'll plant the new lawn. Then start the new lawn in late summer. By late September, it should look pretty good. By October, very good.