Are you watering it lightly 3x per day? That is what you're supposed to do. Just keep the sod moist all the way through so the roots touching the soil don't dry out. If you did not roll the sod down, go out now and walk over every square inch of it. You need to have good contact with the underlying soil. Bermuda has very few problems that would cause a permanent issue for you. While you're waiting for the grass to green up, find the Bermuda Bible online and memorize it.

I was sort of in the same boat last year. I did a small scale experiment in the back yard the same time my builder spread seed and straw on the rest. What I have found is that any topsoil will do. I bought the Lowe's $1 per bag cheap stuff and the Scott's $2 per bag topsoil. I spread the two types of soil in seperate areas of the yard that get the same amount of sun. The Scott's soil did not help the grass grow any faster or thicker. (Remember this was my experience) Both mine and my neighbors yards were put in on the same day and mine is doing a ton better. There were two things that I think really helped my yard develop better than the guy next door. 1) Rake up all straw once your grass starts to grow. When I did this, the grass seemed to fill in a lot more than my neighbors. I had a fraction of the weeds also. I found the best way was to rake it all up into rows and run over it with the mower with the bagger on. 2) Arriate. My neighbor did not do this, but I did last fall. You will not notice very much difference by the time snow hits, but in the spring the results are night and day! If you haven't done this before just beware that clay will cake to the tires of your mower and you will have to clean them off. Not a big deal. Lastly, I bought some of the Scott's Patchmaster this spring to re-plant in an area where we had a drain put in. I didn't think there would be much of a difference, but man that stuff really works. It grows in pretty thick too! If I ever put in another yard, I will definately be using the hydroseeding.

Most likely brown patch since your sod is mostly tall fescue. When you lay sod in the summer, especially TF, you have a catch 22 situation in that you have to water it often to keep it alive and allow it to root, but at the same time constant leaf wetness often leads to brown patch in hot weather. Unfortunately most "landscapers" don't consider this, and it could have been prevented with an application of fungicide after the sod was laid. Brown patch affected lawns often come back in the fall, unless the disease affects the crowns, then you can lose grass. 90/10 usually means you have some KBG mixed in with your TF, in which case the KBG will spread to fill in bare areas over time.

It is probably too late for you to get the builder to lay more sod. Your situation sounds like what we had happen in our first new home in No. VA where clay is the norm. Our builder layed sod in June during a very hot and dry spell. Before we closed, I went to the house and ran above ground sprinklers to try and keep it alive. Some made it - but a lot died. I wound up putting in a sprinkler system and then planted my own grass. My lawn always looked "Augusta-like". Your approach to spread dirt and seed is the right one. Do yourslef a favor and get the very best grass seed you can - check out Lesco (now John Deer landscapes). I have seeded over 2 acres of rocky soil in my new house - some loam and some clay - with their seed and I have the best yard I have ever had and with no sprinkler system. We live in the Blueridge Mtns and when people visit they cannot believe how good the lawn looks. I owe the Garden forum experts a lot for their great advise. Post on the Garden forum under lawns and ask what the best seed is for your area. I learned from them that Teamates Plus - which is a mix of mostly fescue but also has perenial rye and some bluegrass - is very good for the mid-atlantic region. When you seed, put straw (not hay) over the top to protect the seeds. I never used to do this but found that it really works. I also like to use the starter fertlizer also sold by Lesco. Water short but frequenctly initially to keep that seed moist (maybe 3 times per day for 10 minuutes: early AM, mid day, and evening sprits). The Teamates grass seed is simply magic - rye pops after 5-7 days, fescue within 2 weeks or so. And very high germination rates. The big box seeds have a lot of inert material and lower germination rates. I have found that if you can get your grass established with deep roots you really don't need a sprinkler system - but it is very nice to have one. After a year or two you can back off on the watering to maybe once every 3rd or 4th day with a single deep watering. If you water too much the roots won't grow deep enough and when drought comes a lot will die. A few other lessons I have learned: 1) cut the grass as high as possible - especially in the summer. I cut mine at 3.5 to 4 inches. In the summer when the heat comes, you want to protect the roots from burning and the tall grass will do that. If you are in a drought or dry spell - don't cut the grass. If you do cut, wait after a good rain or a cool spell. 2) Bag your grass in early spring and late fall, mulch at all other times. You can mulch when the night temperatures are consistently above 55 degrees and that will allow the grass clippings to break down quickly and put nutrients from the cut grass back into the ground. If you don't bag when the night temps are below 55, the grass will clump and choke out your lawn, thatch will get too thick. 3) fertilze in fall, not in spring. The only food i give my grass is in late spring when I use another Lesco product called Momentum weed and feed. This stuff is the best weed control product I have ever used and takes out clover and dandy's with ease. If you feed in spring, you promote top growth but not root growth - and you will have to cut the grass more frequently. If you feed in fall (mid-late October) - you promote deep root growth which is what you want. 4) Use the garden lawn forum - best lawn advise around. Good luck