Since it prevents seed germination, it may not bother your raspberries which are growing plants. However, the label says to put in your transplants first, then let the soil settle before applying the herbicide. Some soil mixing would have occurred during planting, so the new roots may contact the herbicide and suffer some damage. The herbicide does not appear to be labeled for food crops, so for a first year when you won't get any fruit it will be OK provided the plants aren't injured. Next year, use something else such as a product containing trifluralin (Treflan, it was an active ingredient in Preen) as this will go after most of the annuals that Barricade controls, plus some others. Since the plants are in the ground, I would just watch and wait and learn from what happens.

Dandelions are not on the list because there are two lists: 1. Stuff that is easy to kill. 2. Stuff that is difficult to kill. Stuff that is easy to kill is the category of 'broadleaf weeds'. That includes clover, dandelions, and a dozen other weeds that are ugly ('canada thistle' and 'bull thistle' are a couple of my favorites). Weed B Gone kills these weeds. Get some Weed B Gone, and spray it around. Bingo. No weeds. This is SOOOO easy. Get your weed b gone, go spray it, and hey, no weeds. Done. 2. Group Two is the weeds that are difficult to kill. These are weeds that are really grass. Yep. They are grass. They are not a 'broad' leaf, they are a 'narrow' leaf, because they are a grass. You notice how clover, or plantain, or thistle, has a leaf that is wider than a blade of grass? I hate to say this, but they have a 'broad' leaf. They are not a blade of grass. All of these weeds will be killed by a 'broadleaf' (hey, they're not even trying to confuse us, yet) weed killer. These 'narrow' leaf weeds are really a grass (or, if you want to get technical, one of them is a sedge. Pay no attention to this sentence). You can't kill a grass with a broad leaf weed killer. No. Can't be done. So the scientists (both of them) got together, and decided that, since most grasses pop up from SEEDS, hey, we could create a chemical that KILLS SEEDS. It doesn't kill big, healthy plants, but it kills seeds. Before they (ready for this?) EMERGE from seed. And, Roy and Hal, decided that they would call their chemical a 'PRE-emerge' (or pre-emergent) weed killer. It kills those seeds before anything emerges from those seeds. And that would actually SOLVE the problem of 'what do we do about those hard-to-kill weeds that appear to be immune from broadleaf weed killer (because these weeds don't have broad leaves)? Bravo! This has solved the problem, eh? No. Not quite. The problem still remains that 'pre-emergent' weed killers (they should be called pre-emergent SEED killers) last for a month, or two, or three. They do not last for a year. They probably should, but they don't. So here we are: if you have broadleaf weeds, spray weed b gone. If you need a pre-emergent, hey, put it down. It might even work. But there might be some leftover (undesirable) grasses. So we have to do it over again? Or is it that we have to do it at a different time of year? Or both? WAHHHH! Why can't this be easy? Congratulations. Now you're right up there with the rest of us. Let us know how it turns out. Really. We need the advice as much as you do.

The plan was to use one or more applications of round-up as necessary on two portions of existing lawn then add shrubs. I meant not to apply any fertilizer or herbicide to these portions of the lawn but out of habit forgot. The link below is to the exact herbicide I applied. If the instructions where clear to me I wouldn't have to ask here :) After applying I know I can't overseed, and I know it is safe on established plants, but it is unclear if it is safe with transplanted bushes. As mentioned, the new bushes would be 24"+ for lilacs and 48"+ for arborvitae. After the grass died off, I was going to amend the soil with 4 inches of matured compost to a depth of 12" and width of 60", tilling (or hand turning) in the dead grass with it. My county provides free compost from the leaf and yard waste clippings they collect. I planned to do this per research from several academic sites recommending amending, e.g. http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/orgmatter/index.html#compost . Seems I'll have to look into this part more. Here is a link that might be useful: Fertilizer with 0.013% Dimension

I'm assuming it rained in or you irrigated it in? If so, go right ahead and mow, blow, whatever. You're fine. If it didn't get rained in yet, I'd wait until it does.