Why Do My Cuttings Keep Dying?
leafy02
12 years ago
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12 years agorhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Why does my ivy keep dying?
Comments (7)Kite, Rhizo's right about ivy's being difficult to grow indoors. Rhizo, before I continue, I have a question for you. Although Hedera Helix is hardy, are variegated types as hardy? English and Bostons even thrive here in IL, but I've never seen any variegated types, not in this part of IL..Boston grows on brick, but don't know if they redden naturally or from sun and chilly air. What do you think? Kite, did you want to grow outdoors or try indoors? Do you have a cool room? Enclosed porch, etc. The cooler the better. Variegated Ivy is a beautiful plant, especially types with deep variegation. But Variegated need more sun than strickly green. Low light causes spindly growth despite color. If you place your ivy in a bright window, w/cooler temps, 'away from gas heat,' ventilation, and spray the leaves daily, it should do fine. If the room is hot, dry and stuffy, Spider Mites will attack. In winter, water less. Don't keep soil constantly wet, it needs to dry between drinks, especially if your winters are always gray. I withhold fertilizer during winter, but depending where you are in Tn, if days have more sun than clouds, 1/4-1/2 strength will suffice. Is your ivy hanging or staked? Toni...See MoreWhy do my knockout roses keep dying?
Comments (3)Some suggestions for zone 5: Don't cut roses back in the Fall; cut them back to perfectly healthy wood (white centers on the cut surface of the cane) just before growth begins in the spring. Not doing this is one major cause of failure with roses in cold climates. Second cause of failure is planting on low ground where water collects from melting snow in the winter. Are your roses planted on the higher parts of a sloping site? If you don't think either improper pruning or poor drainage is the problem, then you might try more winter hardy roses, such as any of the Canadian Explorer series (see link). Here is a link that might be useful: Canadian Hardy Roses...See MoreMy clematis vines keep dying. What am I doing wrong?
Comments (6)I doubt you killed your clematis, but you may have cracked the fragile stems at the base. Keep treating the roots like they are alive and you will probably get new shoots coming up. Best practice is to prune the clematis back hard before you plant leaving only about 6 inches of growth or taller so you have a few sets of leaves. There isn't a leader vine. Sweet Autumn grows fast, so keep watching it so you can try to guide the stems. I add bone meal the way Chalk Hill recommends, but it isn't required. I don't take out the supports that came in the nursery pot unless they fall off. I try to cause as little disruption to the roots as possible. I do take off the twist ties though and use my own. Tightly tying the vine to your support isn't good. I use velcro straps to hold the vines in place. It doesn't take long for the tendrils to grab on, so as soon as it does, the straps can be removed. What I try to do when planting a new clematis is plant it at an angle towards the support. That way the vines will already be growing in the right direction. To help it along, I might add a couple of lengths of thin bamboo on either side of the root mass and use these to help guide the vine. It also serves to protect the vine (somewhat) from dog feet. Where practical, I will use the velcro pieces to hold the bamboo to the support, but most of the time it can just rest on the support because the soil holds it in place....See MoreWhy my newly propagated perennials keep dying on me
Comments (8)i agree that pure peat is basically useless to use ....and yes.. i have seen plants grown in such.. and i assume that professionals have all the tools to use it.. like misters.. greenhouses.. humidity controls ... nutrient control ... etc .... in other words.. they can perfect ALL the variables ... which you cant ... in your original question ... you only list media and sunlight ... what about all the other cultural variables???? .. did you take them into account .. and just not mention them??? i recall your foray into conifers .. and i recommended dirr manual on propagation ... did you ever read that??? .. its made my eye glaze over.. for the most part ... but what i ended up focusing on.. was his description of the variables taken into consideration .. and which might be important to a specific plant ... btw .. what stopped me with conifers.. and many other things.. was the hormone or rooting products and the inherent possible toxicity involved .. all the power to the pros ... but i dont need an extra toe or two ... lol ... and btw again ... i have never heard..nor understood that chamaecyparis is the easiest to root.. someone lead you down the wrong road with that idea ... and do note.. again .... i am leading you to one single book .. i have found.. the WWW .. though a great resource.... is so scatter gun ... that it is hard to focus .... find one good source.. and study it ... read and reread it.. until you actually retain something ... and then start winging it ... lol ... and try to focus on the basics of variables .. and how to manipulate them ... your local library can probably secure a copy of the book ... for you to peruse it.. and decide if you want to invest in it .. and once a cutting is rooted ... it would be little different from a seedlings ... and ergo ... the variables for future care would probably start to fall in line ... have you ever considered getting a job at a local nursery/greenhouse operation ..... over winter ... if not for high pay ... to learn??? .. i dont know why.. but i am thinking you are a younger person.. who might have this option ... if not.. no insult intended ... ken https://duckduckgo.com/?q=dirr+manual+on+propagation&t=ffcm&ia=products...See Moreleafy02
12 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
12 years agorhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
12 years agoleafy02
12 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
12 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
12 years agobirdsnblooms
12 years ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)