I think #1 is Milo http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/forestry/trees/CommonTreesHI/CFT_Thespesia_populnea.pdf

And for removal of invasives (which this isn’t), I use large adjustable pliers to pull ones that are smaller. The looser the soil, the larger the plant you can pull. For large ones there a few choices: - Get a weed wrench or similar tool to pull midsized plants. https://www.theuprooter.com/tool-features/weed-wrench-alternative/ - Cut to ground level and then revisit each plant about every other week for a couple of seasons to remove all new sprouts so the roots use up all stored energy. This takes both consistency and persistence because if leaves get a chance to form the plant will start making and storing energy again. - Cut to ground level and then paint the cut with a short lived brush strength herbicide. I use this option along with the first because I live on 200 acres and it is my only hope of decreasing my invasives. I like it as the lesser of two evils because it is very targeted to individual plants, and it uses the least possible amount. I do recheck certain invasives even after this treatment once because sometimes buckthorn repsprouts, but IME recutting will kill it.

Hello, i thought i would add some more photos from this year. I forgot to mention in my initial post that the rose suckers—and that when moved to a different location, the rose sprouts again (sucker about 2ft to the left of the original rose below). My MIL notes that the rose appears to have suckered 4 times since it was moved from St. Louis in 1987, but I am wondering if this change now that it is getting more regular attention since I’ve rallied the family to care for it more (I do what I can when I visit, like mulching and fertilizing, but I live 3 hours away). The rose definitely gets crud and defoliates, but is still tough as nails.

Japanese maples are by nature woodland understory trees so all would prefer at least some shade...typically during the hottest part of the day. Yes, some can and will tolerate full sun but it is not their preference and their performance and appearance is often affected by that. And I would say that excess sun when leafing out is likely the cause of your maple's current appearance. As to a cultivar ID, good luck!! There are just too many and with a similar appearance to be even remotely accurate. Even the JM authorities are reluctant to pin down an ID unless the tree is exhibiting characteristics that may be unique to that cultivar. And this one does not, sorry.