ZZ plant soil suggestion..
Plant_Lover_UT
10 years ago
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Plant_Lover_UT
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoPlant_Lover_UT
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
10' x 80' of very wet peaty-soil- any suggestions for plants?
Comments (7)I am mystified by the universal recommendations to use a well drained soil and avoid damp spots for fruit plants of species that will tolerate considerable periods of flooding in the wild. None would probably do you any good in Z6 though. Muscadine grapes and pawpaws are obvious examples, and guavas are another when you consider the escaped reverted guavas in South Florida. Rabbiteye blueberries and mayhaws may be others, though I don't know the exact conditions of wild rabbiteyes other than in broad stream valleys, and don't recall whether mayhaws are recommended just for well drained soil. One aspect that makes this all the more mystifying is that (except for guavas) these plants have only recently been selected and bred. They are still very close, literally just a few generations at very most, from their wild relatives. A good number are simply selected FROM the wild. They are not highly modified from wild plants. I know the experts are not just knee-jerking: they specifically mention experience with root rots on muscadines and pawpaws (and perhaps the others). Yet I see wild muscadines and pawpaws flooded all the time, including occasions (several a decade) with substantial flooding for a week or more in the growing season, in cases when heavily laden with fruit, in cases with 2 feet of water, in rarer cases with 6 feet (after tropical depressions pass upstate). They seem to do fine. I am foraging the fruit a few weeks or month later. What gives?...See MoreNew to houseplants- how to not kill ZZ Plant and Dracaena Marginata?
Comments (5)Hi! These are not terribly picky plants, things should go well, assuming both are in a pot with a hole in the bottom, and not inappropriately dense/soggy/muddy soil. :+) The one picky aspect of Dracaenas is being sensitive to tap water chemicals. Whenever possible, give that rain water, distilled, or condensate from a dehumidifier or A/C. Sounds like it might be too big to move for watering. A turkey baster will help you remove excess water from a drip saucer. First, the fun. Both of these plants have a "strange people" article. If you like to find the humor in things, plants have some too: http://plantsarethestrangestpeople.blogspot.com/2009/11/fall-guy-dracaena-marginata.html http://plantsarethestrangestpeople.blogspot.com/2008/07/stoner-zamioculcas-zamiifolia.html "should I have removed all of the old soil from the roots?" Yes, that's repotting. What you described doing is merely potting up. Repotting is preferred because variation in soil type/texture makes it difficult for moisture to move from one to the other. "should I have placed some pebbles or perlite or something in the bottom" No, that doesn't help with drainage/aeration, it's just an old wives' tale. Many previous discussions about this if you feel like searching/reading more. I'm also a huge fan of the great info here: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/1490818/good-growing-practices-an-overview-for If you are able to share a pic of your plants, please do. Everyone loves plant porn!...See MoreNeed suggestions for improving soil organically for planting NOW
Comments (11)Who did that "soil test"? Your Kansas State University does a much better test that does include, besides pH, the ratio of Calcium to Magnesium, the C.E.C. (Cation Exchange Capacity), and amount of organic matter in the soil. What you need to know is the soils pH. Most all nutrients are most readily available with a soil pH in the 6.0 to 7.0 range, although some plants have evolved needing a lower soil pH. The ratio of Calcium to Magnesium influences soil pH. The C.E.C. is a measure of the soil ability to hold on to both moisture and nutrients and release them so plants can utilize them. The C.E.C. should be in the upper teens to low twenties and sandy soils tend to have very low numbers while clay soils tend to have much higher numbers. Organic matter tends to have numbers in the upper teens to lower twenties. How much organic matter is in the soil. Whether your soil is sand or clay you should work toward an amount of organic matter in the soil between 6 and 8 percent. In addition to helping sandy soils hold on to both moisture and nutrients and helping clay soils release the moisture and nutrients and open up the clay so drainage improves the organic material added to soil feeds the Soil Food Web that feed the plants growing in that soil. In addition to having a good reliable soil test done, preferably by your Kansas State University Cooperative Extension Service, perhaps these simple soil tests may be of some help. 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. kimmq is kimmsr...See MoreSo I finally repotted my ZZ plant...
Comments (15)Wow! That is just incredible! I wouldn't have thought to use that soil for container plants but I sure will do so when it's time for repotting :) If I may, I have one more question...not sure that you'd know the answer but you certainly seem to have a ton more experience with these lovely plants than I have so it's worth a shot asking! So I purchased a ZZ, "Zena" from my local Walmart a few months ago at the beginning of summer for $10. I had no idea what a ZZ plant was or if I'd ever even seen one before. I just new it was uniquely gorgeous and I had to have it for my fireplace mantle! All I've done is water it when I feel the top 2 inches of soil is dry as well as give it a couple of pumps of miracle grow plant food maaayyybe 3 of the times I've watered it (so maybe once in June, July & August). Since then, it has sprouted 3 new light green stems full of leaves and the shorter bushier stems have filled out quite nicely on the bottom making the plant look even fuller than when I purchased it! :) Well recently I came home from a trip and there was this short yellow stem of leaves. Not sure if this stem was one of the shorter bushy stems already present in the plant & those leaves just turned yellow or if this sprouted up new and yellow within the 3 days I was away at work? I'm at a total loss. Have done some research the past couple of days and some people have reported that it's a seasonal change that affects usually only one stem. Some have said the oldest stems will sometimes turn yellow and die off. Some think it's possible they may have a "variegated" stem of the plant growing in with the regular green version of the plant. Some even say that it's a sign of overwatering and the tubular roots inside could be soggy & dying. I don't think that's the case with Zena, as I make sure she's dry down to the soil at the drainage holes at the bottom of her pot before watering. Question is, have you seen anything like this with your ZZ's or perhaps have heard of this happening before and possibly know what it is? I've touched the stem & leaves & they look and feel quite strong and normal. They just look "odd" compared to all the other deep dark green stems in the pot. It doesn't bother me a bit, in fact I love eccentricities in all things so I feel blessed to have this little oddity sticking out the side now, but I just wonder if I need to be concerned? I should let you know that I live in Colorado and when I left for my trip the temps were consistently 75-80° inside the house but when I returned 3 days later it was 50° outside so inside the house it was about 65-70°. I wondered if maybe it got too cold & that caused the color change or new growth of the yellow stem? Any thoughts you might have are greatly appreciated! Thanks for your help! Len...See Morepetrushka (7b)
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoPlant_Lover_UT
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoPlant_Lover_UT
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agopetrushka (7b)
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agopetrushka (7b)
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoPlant_Lover_UT
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoPlant_Lover_UT
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoUser
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoPlant_Lover_UT
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agopetrushka (7b)
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agopetrushka (7b)
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agopetrushka (7b)
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoPlant_Lover_UT
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoPlant_Lover_UT
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agopetrushka (7b)
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agopetrushka (7b)
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoPlant_Lover_UT
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
10 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)