So I finally repotted my ZZ plant...
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5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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goldstar135
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Why are my ZZ plant stems so stretched?
Comments (1)The whole thing is the leaf, The parts are the rachis, petiolule and the leaflet. The rachis is the stem, what you are referring to as the "leaf" is a leaflet and the tiny stem holding them together is the petiolule. Two things come to mind, one is that it is too dry, ZZ plants in nature come from moist environments not dry ones and the other is there is not enough light so the rachis elongate (referred to as "etiolated")They do not need full sun but still need light. These, for some reason are often sold as impervious to neglect or abuse but they are not. The shorties look ok, maybe it was just the change in location that messed with it....See Morequestion about repotting ZZ plants
Comments (23)yep, i read exoticrainforest site too and put them in dappled sun light and when they were producing sev stalks started watering a LITTLE more. and guess what? got yellow leaves pretty soon - tubers started rotting. it prolly is like sansevieria - IF you put it in 90-95F and in partial sun it can be watered well. but that's a very big IF. if you don't have temps over 80F - don't water it more. and certainly not in winter, when most people have cooler conditions. you def need to let it fully dry out to the bottom before you water. look at my plant - how densely the leaves are set and how fat the bases of stalks are. too much water produces weak spindly 'soft' growth (unless you have above-mentioned hot conditions)....See MoreDoes this ZZ plant need repotting? Or something else?
Comments (9)ZZ plants have tuberous roots (potatoes are tubers) that need a lot of space and the more airy the soil, the less risk there is that they will rot. https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/62/ZZ_Plant_%28Zamioculcas_zamiifolia%29_roots.jpg Someday I hope the myth of "this plant likes to be rootbound" or "tight shoes" or whatever the phrasing, will die. No plant likes to be rootbound. What is necessary for plants to stay alive is for their roots to not rot, which can happen so easily in a pot with dense soils, like ground dirt, or bagged mixes of predominantly tiny particles of peat, (or to simply shrivel from simply never getting any water.) Having very little soil around the roots would make the soil dry more quickly, and for even the most dedicated plant-overwaterers to not rot the roots of their plants. This is not ideal, since most non-cactus plants are stressed by dry conditions, it's just a way of coping with soil that has little air in it when moist. Negative experiences in regard to potting-up, where an undisturbed root ball is placed into a bigger pot with more soil around it, vs. doing a repotting, as described below, can give rise to old wives' tales about plants not liking to be repotted/disturbed. Potting-up a root-bound plant that has roots surrounding the outside root ball often lead to this negative experience because those roots had adapted to accessing oxygen around the outside of the root ball and surrounding them with more dense, soggy-but-airless potting soil will likely lead to suffocation. The reason bonsai masters are able to keep potted entities alive for hundreds of years is because they care for the roots by trimming them and changing the soil. A plant grows from the roots-up, so if the roots are not healthy, gorgeous foliage will decline &/or no flowers can form. When you unpot a plant and find a pancake of roots at the bottom, chopping that off will give roots a chance to grow normally again for a while and will make removing the old soil easier. Roots need oxygen & moisture at the same time to function. Just air = shriveling. Just moisture = suffocation & rotting. Either will cause root death and dessicated foliage because the roots have been unable to deliver moisture. Having to let soil dry, as if ones' tropical jungle plant was a cactus, is an unnecessarily stressful coping mechanism for non-desert dwelling plants in soil without enough oxygen for the roots to stay healthy when it is moist and can lead to premature loss of older leaves and in extreme cases, dry shriveled roots/dead plant. The ability of roots to be able to function properly depends greatly on the soil structure/texture, which can change over time. Potting soil tends to be very dense, mostly peat, with very little air in it. Any kind of organic ingredients decompose into smaller bits over time, and roots fill air spaces over time as they grow through soil. Replacing soil periodically is usually necessary to keep plants healthy because of these reasons. A more porous, chunky, airy soil (like cactus/palm, if one is buying bagged,) can have more air in it even when it is moist because there is space between the particles. When there are tiny particles of any kind in a pot, such as peat, sand, silt, clay, they filter into all of the tiny spaces in a pot, eliminating the air. "Overwatering" is the label and manifestation when roots have suffocated and/or rotted, combo of both. Over time, organic bits decompose into smaller bits, so even the "best" soil, if it has organic components, will need to be replaced when this happens. The speed at which this happens depends on many variables, but on average, about 1-3 years....See MoreWhat is the best soil to use when repotting a zz plant?
Comments (5)What it says ON the package is insignificant when compared to what's IN the package. Container media are all (ok, nearly all) about their structure and their ability to retain that structure for the intended life of the planting, which would be from repot to repot or the interval between dividing plants that are normally divided rather than repotted. When we talk about structure, we're talking about the soil's ability to hold air and water in a ratio favorable enough that your plant won't suffer from prolonged periods of soil saturation if you water to beyond the point of saturation. If you cannot water correctly without your plant(s) suffering, you'll be in a constant battle with your choice of media for control of your plants' vitality. This is the biggest stumbling block the average container gardener encounters and the the one apt to be the most limiting. A good medium makes for healthier plants, far less frustration for the gardener, a greater sense of satisfaction and personal rewards for the gardener, and the other aspects essential if plants are to realize a high state of vitality (like nutritional supplementation) fall into place with much less fussing about. There ARE very simple ways to limit the effects of excess water retention by limiting the amount of excess water a medium can hold, but the best way is to build (or buy if you can) a medium that naturally holds very little excess water. By nature, these media will be very fast-draining and well-aerated, which gives them a considerable leg up on other media that hold a lot of excess water. Not sure how interested you are in digging deeper; but, if you have questions, just ask. Al...See Morejamilalshaw26
5 years agoPhoto Synthesis
5 years agoJontte Kinnu
5 years agojamilalshaw26
5 years agoPhoto Synthesis
5 years agolmontestella
5 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
5 years agoLen M
5 years agoPhoto Synthesis
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoAndrea ME z5b
5 years agoLen M
5 years agoPhoto Synthesis
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoLen M
5 years ago
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