I bought the 10X12 HFGH and it is up. I dug a hole and placed the base frame in it and filled it with what we call red breeze. I did have a bit of a problem with the instructions. I went to HF web site and downloaded a new set of instructions. That helped, but even with these new instructions, it left a lot to the imagination. They were different than the ones that came with the GH. I do want to make some modifications to our GH also to make it stronger. I am new to this site and would like to know how to find pictures on here, especially of the pool cover for insulation. I am thinking of putting up bubble wrap on the inside to help with insulation. I found these items on EBAY. Greenhouse Insulation Fittings - Super Alliplugs x 50 Has any one tried these? Here is the link to his EBAY store. Looks like lots of parts we could use on our HFGH. http://stores.ebay.com/Greenhouse-Warehouse He is located in UK, but the parts look exactly like what came with the HFGH, if you need extra parts. Tom S Colorado Here is a link that might be useful: GreenHouse parts in the UK for HFGH

A couple of things... "Grout" is probably deck mud. Could be regional, could be poor word choice on the part of your new contractor. "Deck mud" is a lean portland cement mixture, generally 5 parts sand to 1 part portland cement. Mixed with just enough water so it sticks together like beach sand used to build a sand castle. It's not concrete, it's not mortar, it's not grout, it's deck mud, or dry pack. Saving the "pan" for re-use? Nope. Have them provide you with a new membrane. Take a good look at the cross section of the shower that terricks posted. If the membrane is flat on the floor but still water-tight, all you're going to get is a slow drying shower floor. The mud bed under the tile may saturate. The grout may stay wet for extended periods and mildew. You might see wet grout at the bottom courses of wall tile due to water wicking up the walls a bit. But the curb? The curb structure should still be as dry as a bone. There's either a leak in the membrane; in the membrane itself, at the clamping drain, in a corner, or the membrane is not properly detailed despite being flat on the floor. Despite the membrane being flat on the floor, the curb should not be wet and blowing apart due to swelling. So there is no way on earth they can reuse the "pan" or membrane. Also look at Terrick's graphic, where the membrane turns up the shower walls. The membrane should run 8" to 10" up the shower walls. You can see that the membrane goes against the wall studs. The poly or felt runs down the wall and laps over the membrane, The cement board or tile backer board then goes on the wall, but does not get screwed or nailed where the membrane is. Remember, no fasteners through the membrane. The only places where the membrane gets fastened is at the top edge where it runs up the walls to secure it to the wall studs. On the outside face of the curb. And it also gets clamped at the drain. So how in the world are they going to remove the membrane without removing the bottom rows of wall tile and cutting away the bottom section of tile backer board? "He will construct a new curb is damaged"? The curb is most definitely damaged. The wood most likely expanded due to moisture absorption, right? So that wood will not be used either. What Bill needs to do is: 1) demo the curb to the membrane. 2) Demo the shower floor, remove tile and deck mud to expose the membrane. 3) remove the bottom few rows of wall tile up about 10" to 12" above the height of the shower drain. 4) Cut the tile backer board horizontally a couple of inches below the bottom of the remaining course of wall tile. Careful when cutting, as you don't want to cut into the felt or poly (6-mil thick polyethylene plastic sheeting or #15 tar paper). 5) Fold up the poly or felt and tape it to the tile higher up on the wall. 6) Undo the clamping drain and remove the membrane. Toss it, it's no good. 7) Make any repairs to the exposed subfloor. Then rebuild it properly. The guy doesn't want you there? doesn't even want to see you? Right. He's really earned the right to work unsupervised, hasn't he. To let him work unsupervised is not a wise move. I think letting him do the work is not wise. He's not trustworthy. But that's my opinion. But my other opinion is that either you are there or your new contractor is there. He's already proven to be untrustworthy and to not do proper work. Remember, the core issue is not just a flat membrane. Water somehow got under the membrane to saturate the curb. I'd want to see the membrane detailing around the curb. The folds at the inside corners, see if there are any nails or screws in the top or inside face of the curb. The thing is that if he didn't detail the folds or if he put fasteners through the membrane the first time, he's going to do it again. He'll just do it with a sloped membrane instead of a flat membrane. I will raise a warning flag about your new contractor. So okay, we know the membrane wasn't sloped. But why did the curb swell and expand? How did water get under the membrane and into the structure of the curb? I'm not sure if your new guy knows how the curb failed, or if he knows how to repair a shower, or how to build one. I'd want eyes on the project when the demo is carried out. I'd want to see the membrane with the tile and mud off of it. I'd want to see if he just nailed cement board to the faces of the curb, nailing right through the membrane. I'd want to see if he nailed through the bottom edge of the backer board on the walls, nailing through the membrane, creating little holes. Hey, maybe your #1 guy did a great job (with the exception of not sloping the membrane) and it was an errant something or other that accidentally poked a hole in the membrane. Or maybe he's ignorant and apathetic when it comes to building a proper shower. My vote is that your #1 contractor is #2.

thank you everyone for the suggestions - I'm def struggling with what to do and open to all of these ideas. My heart wants a dark blue room or similar color room but I know that might not work best here...but I want it to! I'm willing to listen to all of your advice. We are new to this and not professionals at all...we just love our home and want it to be warm and inviting. Our first step in doing that was removing the ugly pink walls (no offense to anyone who liked that but that is not "us" at all). To answer your question specifically, Patricia Colwell Consulting, we purchased drapes for this room because even though there are two large pine trees outside the window, it gets a lot of light and it wakes us up early (not that we sleep super late but when you don't get to sleep much, ever minute counts). Also, the window are antique windows, which we love, but they aren't very warm. The drapes would help trap the cold, at least, that's our hope. It's a south-ish facing room and for whatever reason, it's very bright in here. The wall color looks washed out and too "baby blue" for us, so we were looking for a change but are open to ideas on how to get the room more "warm", although I feel like the general advice is to use light off-white on walls. I'm not against a different color on the walls than "dark" but I just don't know where to go to get the warm cozy vibe we want for the bedroom. The light during the day washes out the walls and they look too "baby boy blue"for us. They look nice in the evening, it's more of a gray. The only furniture in the room in our bedframe (see pic). Bedframe is from C&B and a bit older and will go some time soon but the next frame will also be darker wood. 3 closets with bi-fold doors and 2 doorways...so a lot of white trim and doors. Painted part of window is now white again - I don't know what my husband was thinking. Ceiling fan is also gone - we will replace with another one that fits better once we figure the rest of the room out! hope that answers everyone's questions!

The least expensive fix is for you and your neighbor to be on the same page (as the second step) -- even you buying him an oak sapling to be planted wherever he wants you to dig a hole for it )if you need to do so), including his agreeing with and being on the same page for the third step -- building the wall. If and when the two of you are on the same page, then next step is for you to build your wall (or have it built.). It may be cheaper for you dig a ditch alongside the embankment and mix concrete in your wheelbarrow for a footing, then you mix cement in your wheelbarrow to build a concrete block wall atop the footing as close to the embankment as practical -- maybe three blocks high with a cap block atop that -- and then you level or gently slope about 16" above/behind that wall and plant your ground cover there to "hold" any dirt above your block wall, filling in any spaces left between the block wall and embankment with the soil you remove to create a mostly level ( in all directions) planting area above/behind the wall for what you plant to prevent erosion.. The first step is you researching how to build a three block concrete block wall (w/cap block) as a retaining wall and you knowing how to do it yourself and you knowing what is involved, including costs. Do contact that same landscaper that created the problem and and get a (?discounted?, hopefully) price for him to build a three blockhigh (with cap block) concrete block retaining wall as a part of your research in costs. Note: If you end up building a tall wall, you may need some rebar inside the blocks to help hold them in place and even curved pieces ("L" shaped) to set in the block and to be hammered into the wall and even adding more concrete behind the wall between blocks and dirt to help hold those blocks in place.